Weights in the glass bedding?

MosinMan13

MosinMan13

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I picked up an old Savage Model 10T the other week, just something to try precision target shooting out in, I stripped it down to clean it and I found what I believe looks like glass bedding in the stock (which is cool) but I also found up in the fore end of the stock near the bipod, what looks like weights? Or strange metal cylinders?

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So my question, is this normal practise, if so what is it’s purpose, and if it does suit a purpose does mine look like it was done properly. (I did Google this first but I didn’t get anywhere)

Thanks!
 
Looks like someone did a shyte job of it with 5 minute epoxy and some spray foam. Either trying to stiffen the stock or add weight to change the point of balance.
 
Did you try shooting it first?
if it balances okay, I wouldn't mess with it.
Could be however, that someone was trying to add weight for more accurracy, which does not alwways work.
Cat
 
I'd clean out every remnant of the weight addition and whatever else that master gunsmith added to your rifle, and start fresh. The epoxy bedding could stay since it's a real bear to remove.

Good luck on your shooting adventures
 
As mentioned, probably done to add weight up front, increase rigidity, or both. Not real pretty but probably functional enough. If you like the balance and weight of the rifle, leave it be. If not, take it out.
 
I used to shoot with a pair of brothers whose rifles were often on the homely side but were technically excellent. They were excellent competitors and usually in the winner's circle. I have been around long enough to withhold judgement based on appearance. The unlimited BR rifle used by LE Wilson was butt-ugly but was technically perfect and he could win with it. I like to try and make things look as good as I can but I don't fool myself that it makes any difference on the target. By the way, my shop is often not that neat and clean!
 
LeftFootOfDoom said:
My 10T has aluminum bedding block in it. Is it a 10T or a regular old model 10?
Click to expand...

I’ve spent the time between now and then figuring that out, apparently they’ve had a fair fee variants of the Model 10, mines the old Model 10FP from what looks like between 2003 and 2006/2007ish if I read correctly. Heavy barrel 308, with a 4.27” bolt spacing, staggered blind back 4 round capacity, recessed crown, 5r. Etc.

It doesn’t sound like a bad first target rifle at all, I’m debating a chassis already though, still haven’t shot it but already I noticed the follower spring is broken, so if I can’t fab a new spring easily enough I don’t know if I’ll even worry about the work done to this stock. I’m still curious about the metal rods though.
 
Someone just wanted to add weight to reduce recoil... crud looking but it did the job. As long as a weight cannot come loose, don't care what it looks like. I have seen as many pretty as ugly rifles that didn't shoot.

As long as the action has not been mucked with, you have a great base to build a fantastic shooting rifle. These are the actions I recommend as I have used many and they can make wonderfully shooting rifles.

Personally, I would take apart the bolt and make sure it isn't fully of gunk, look for hacked up bits, and look for excessive wear. Not a bad idea to throw in a new firing pin spring (WOLFF)... light lube and have at it.

If you truly want accuracy, swap in a quality match prefit barrel (send pm or email) and work up a load. The stock will work just fine, forend flex and all. If you want to stay with this, just open up the forend ALOT... like 1/8" or more on the sides. You do not want the forend to ever touch the barrel. You may need to move the bipod or better yet, sand bags, closer to the action... reduce the forces that might cause forend flex.

You will tire of the ergonomics soon enough but you can prove that the barreled action works. I would then drop this into an MDT XRS stock and away you go.

On my F class rifles, I put a Farrell 1pc Steel base to help stiffen the action and it has served me very well for many years. These actions can be wonderful gems and with a little bit of TLC and setup, shoot as well as any custom mag fed rifle.

Jerry

Note, ejection can be a pita in some actions so if you are going to use it for PRS type games, make sure it will fling the brass out of the action. Many will not. I use these as a single shot with no ejector and manually remove case... works great as a single shot.
 
Mystic Precision said:
Someone just wanted to add weight to reduce recoil... crud looking but it did the job. As long as a weight cannot come loose, don't care what it looks like. I have seen as many pretty as ugly rifles that didn't shoot.

As long as the action has not been mucked with, you have a great base to build a fantastic shooting rifle. These are the actions I recommend as I have used many and they can make wonderfully shooting rifles.

Personally, I would take apart the bolt and make sure it isn't fully of gunk, look for hacked up bits, and look for excessive wear. Not a bad idea to throw in a new firing pin spring (WOLFF)... light lube and have at it.

If you truly want accuracy, swap in a quality match prefit barrel (send pm or email) and work up a load. The stock will work just fine, forend flex and all. If you want to stay with this, just open up the forend ALOT... like 1/8" or more on the sides. You do not want the forend to ever touch the barrel. You may need to move the bipod or better yet, sand bags, closer to the action... reduce the forces that might cause forend flex.

You will tire of the ergonomics soon enough but you can prove that the barreled action works. I would then drop this into an MDT XRS stock and away you go.

On my F class rifles, I put a Farrell 1pc Steel base to help stiffen the action and it has served me very well for many years. These actions can be wonderful gems and with a little bit of TLC and setup, shoot as well as any custom mag fed rifle.

Jerry

Note, ejection can be a pita in some actions so if you are going to use it for PRS type games, make sure it will fling the brass out of the action. Many will not. I use these as a single shot with no ejector and manually remove case... works great as a single shot.
Click to expand...

Amazing! Thanks for all that info, I was actually already looking at the XRS, seeing as I’m hunting down an out of production follower assembly anyways it might just be an easier solution in the end. I’ll definitely look up that firing pin, and I’ll probably Pm you about those barrels.

Thanks for all the good advice! Definitely feeling good about the rifle now.
 
MosinMan13 said:
I’ve spent the time between now and then figuring that out, apparently they’ve had a fair fee variants of the Model 10, mines the old Model 10FP from what looks like between 2003 and 2006/2007ish if I read correctly. Heavy barrel 308, with a 4.27” bolt spacing, staggered blind back 4 round capacity, recessed crown, 5r. Etc.

It doesn’t sound like a bad first target rifle at all, I’m debating a chassis already though, still haven’t shot it but already I noticed the follower spring is broken, so if I can’t fab a new spring easily enough I don’t know if I’ll even worry about the work done to this stock. I’m still curious about the metal rods though.
Click to expand...

Not sure they used 5r back in 2006, everything else sounds correct. It should shoot pretty decent, I have a 10HS from around that time in 308 and it is really accurate with 168/175gr loads.
 
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