Weld a Slide Crack?

Ganderite

Ganderite

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My Firestar (45AC)) has a crack in the slide.

The crack runs vertically from the rail about 1/2" It is a fine crack, but I can see light through it.

You can see it, just to the left of the STAR logo.
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I was wondering if a dab of electric welding on the inside of the frame would stop the crack from growing?

If so, what kind of welding would be best?
 
Couldn't manage to see the crack. Regardless - if you took the slide to a good welder, I would think he would be able to determine the best type of welding to fix this. I do know (from polishing experience) the slide seems to be made with harder/tougher steel, than the frame - so I'm guessing there's some difference in the metalurgy. Whatever he decides on, I believe the "repair" will leave a "heat signature" on the outside of the slide. Still, better than a crack though.
 
GTAW (Gas Tungsten Arc Welding) Commonly called TIG welding. It's the only manual process capable of the precise amperage and arc control required for this job. Good luck in your quest.
 
I'll say that a competent gas (oxy-acet) welder should have no problem with this either. Finding one, on the other hand, seems harder than a decent TIG welder though.

With a decent build up of the bead of filler material, it should not be terribly noticeable a repair. Vee it out. Fuse and fill, cut down by means of files and abrasives, or milling and grinding, depending upon your equipment available, and refinish as best can.
 
Question: Would the TIG be done from the outside? Does it fuse the existing material together, or is some more material added?

Or can it be done from the inside?

Would it be possible to flow silver solder into the crack and hold it together?
 
I would suggest you get that slide magnifluxed before you go anywhere near a welder with it. Might go a lot farther than you think. Any form of weldong with proper prep will work, just keep in mind some warping is inevitable with all of those methods.
 
The slide looks bent starting at the crack, probably need to press it back straight during welding. Tig can be done with or without filler but the joint needs to be cleaned somehow, typically this means grinding material away then adding filler back during welding. It can be done from the inside, outside or both. Both inside and outside together would be the strongest. I'm guessing bare minimum $200 for prep, repair and refinishing.
 
Ganderite said:
Question: Would the TIG be done from the outside? Does it fuse the existing material together, or is some more material added?

Or can it be done from the inside?

Would it be possible to flow silver solder into the crack and hold it together?
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Likely need to weld on both sides of the slide. Filler would be added, mostly to ensure that the weld is raised above the original surface, and if the area to be welded is vee'd out to ensure that there is no dirty metal in the weld zone. Carving out the crack area is also going to allow straightening of the slide if it is bent at all.

If you thought to save yourself the refinishing, you should pretty much flush that idea down the toilet. One way or other, it's gonna need to be refinished afterwards.

Silver solder might flow or it might not. It needs a clean surface. How you planning on cleaning that out?

No matter though. One way or another, any direction you go other than to just bin the part, is going to require some follow-up file and finishing work.

I kinda figure that there is not a lot going on as far as machined work inside that portion of the slide, so it wouldn't be an ordeal to clean up with a rotary tool of some sort.
 
If you have a barrel bushing and tight barrel to bushing fit that is probably why it cracked throw out and find another:)
 
Ex3dy said:
Star's website lists both Marstar and Dlask as sources for parts, if they have a slide it might be cheaper to just replace it. http://star-firearms.com/info/parts.shtml
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Ya. Buying a new slide would be the best solution.

I will look at that option, before repairing.

I happen to like the gun - otherwise I would just toss it.

I will save it for a buy back day.
 
1 You have to know what metal that slide is made out of.
2 You have to tig weld it with a more noble metal.
3 Depending on # of passes it might warp. Plan "B".
 
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