Welded flash hiders

Yep, 2 welds at about 5 and 7 o'clock, just a few millimeters from the back edge. In this photo of mine, after I cut it open, you can see the rough circle on the interior caused by the spot weld.

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With the rifle out of the stock Undo your gas lock and reposition your gas system Out of the way. tighten up gas lock Temporarily.
U get a clean swing with your hammer.
 
With the rifle out of the stock Undo your gas lock and reposition your gas system Out of the way. tighten up gas lock Temporarily.
U get a clean swing with your hammer.

+1

And to make it easier to aim your hammer hits, try it like this: holding the barrel in one hand, palm facing up, with the flash hider pointed downwards resting against the workbench, line up for a swing with the hammer, and right before impact, bring the flash hider off the surface to meet the hammer - if that makes sense. Mine took a few SHARP hits to shear the welds, gentle or civilized tapping will not do. I struck directly against the rear of the bayonet lug.

Don't forget to keep backing the castle nut off, as you knock the flash hider off. Good luck!
 
At a recent clinic by a CGN sponsor, who will surely chime in soon, I watched 15+ guys smack their flash hiders off. Mine wasn't welded, but some of them took a couple good whacks - more than I'd ever want to whack my rifle (without guidance) - but they all came off with no damage. Watch the castle nut, use a wood block and giver.
 
It definitely helps to have a second set of hands to hold the rifle steady on a wood block as you swing the hammer against a chisel or bar stock positioned against the bayonet lug
 
I used an air impact hammer with a dull chisel bit on the backside of the bayonette lug. It started moving immediatly. Just watch the castle nut and keep it loose, then give another burp of the impact. A few cycles like this and the flashider will be in your hand damage free. Or free damage, One or the other lol
 
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