What are the big no-no's with 1911 ?

Polish-Jack said:
Why is this a bad thing to do?

If it gets knocked out of alignment, the cylinder won't match up with the barrel right, and it'll fire the bullet out of alignment as well, and that, at best will cause the bullet to be fired too much to the side and make it spit out lead shavings, and you will lose muzzle energy and velocity, and you and the guys next to you will certainly lose some skin. At an extreme worse-case scenario, the gun could explode or the cylinder could rupture.

I know that rimfire revolvers cannot be safely dry-fired. It'll break their firing pins.

Unfortunately, I don't know much about autoloaders. Could someone tell me what an 'idiot scratch?' is?

- Dave.
 
canucklehead said:
The crane is what the cylinder is attached to...

Guys who hold my 686 always try to spin the cylinder and then flip the gun so the cylinder locks in place... and I always kick them in the nutz.

Polish-Jack said:
Why is this a bad thing to do?

'Cause it always hurts to get kicked in the nutz... :p
 
Dave L. said:
Unfortunately, I don't know much about autoloaders. Could someone tell me what an 'idiot scratch?' is?

- Dave.

As a proud owner of a Norc1911with a faint scratch :redface: , I can attest that this has a high probability of happening when you first re-assemble the slide catch without having an experienced 1911-er to instruct you. It's a tricky move that involves inserting the catch pin in its hole and pressing the arm slightly upwards against the spring and towards the slot in the slide. If you push down too hard too soon, it will scratch the frame before slipping into place. My scratch was not too deep and I could rub it out (almost all of it). I then wore a black arm-band for a day.:(

One way to avoid this is to practice with a thin piece of plastic placed against the frame (underneath the slot on the slide) - but not your credit card :rolleyes:. You can practice avoiding to scratch the plastic until you get the hang of it. Another trick I discovered was to wrap your left hand around the slide; hold the slide catch with your left thumb on the left face, and your left index finger pressed on the end of the slide-catch pin-hole, so that the pin doesn't slip through too quickly. You can better control the pressure that you are exerting on the catch arm as you turn and press it home. Making sure the spring is properly lubricated is also a good idea. Mine was initially full of heavy grease when I bought it and was sticky. Obviously YMMV.
 
Donny Fenn1 said:
one of the big IPSC/IDPA/racegun? guys in the states figured he'd dry fired his various 1911 something like a million times with no related issues (10,000 times a night or something like that)....

His "race guns" are not bog standard M1911's
 
I dry fire my 1911's (Norinco, Para, STI) and have done no damage to any of them. I get tired of cocking it long before there's risk of significant damage.

Firing pins are cheap keep a couple spares, it takes less than a minute to change one if you're really worried.

The real BAD thing is dropping the slide on an empty chamber or on an already chambered round.

The first pounds the hell out of the gun, the barrel lugs the slide stop cross pin, the sear/hammer faces, possibly the extractor, etc. The second will ruin an extractor in no time, as its not meant ride over like that.

The only time the slide should be allowed to go forward full speed with the recoil spring driving is when there is a round in the magazine and its inserted.
 
I use a tiny flat screwdriver to push the slide release plunger in the tube while inserting the slide release lever. I got my first 1911 a few months ago and have avoided the "idiot scratch" so far with that technique.
 
I believe the people who pride themselves with no idiot-scratch are also proud of not using any tools to avoid it.
I tried inserting the slide catch and putting pressure on the little pin at the same time. No scratches.
 
I have dry fired my issed pistol dozens of times a day, every day while on operations and have had no problems with it. So at home I treat my weapons the same and have no problems but I tend to take a LITTLE more care while doing it.
 
I am a super noob...please explain the slingshot tehnique.

When I did my restricted course, the instructor (also a respected gun smith) said to release the slide and let the spring do its job. To pussy around with it would only lead to a jam...and you could be dead....



capp325 said:
Dry firing is okay. Slamming the slide home on an empty chamber every once in a while won't destroy anything but if you do it a lot, it will accelerate wear as there is no round to cushion the impact when the slide slams against the barrel hood. Dropping the slide on a live round/snap cap is also not a very good idea because doing so wears out the slide catch and the slide catch notch. I prefer the slingshot technique.
 
marlin60 said:
I am a super noob...please explain the slingshot tehnique.

When I did my restricted course, the instructor (also a respected gun smith) said to release the slide and let the spring do its job. To pussy around with it would only lead to a jam...and you could be dead....
With the gun locked back: insert a loaded mag, pull the slide all the way back, and let it go (without following it forward with your hand). This way, you actually get slightly longer slide travel, which could theoretically result in more reliable feeding. But more importantly, you decrease wear on the slide stop and the slide stop notch.
 
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