What distance do you figure a sloped base becomes essential?
- Thread starter Artie Fufkin
- Start date
How many minutes to shoot a .22 at 300?
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
Beyond 1000yds as a simply rule of thumb with a 308/223. Most popular small cals fly alot flatter.
Burris rings solves most needs for shimming.
Jerry
Burris rings solves most needs for shimming.
Jerry
X2 on the Burris Rings. I have a set myself that I use. The nice thing about them is that if you don't need the inclination you can mount as such. If and when you need it, you just change the inserts around for a sloped configuration.
I don't know if my scope without my 20moa base would reach to 1000 or not. Alot depends on the action I think. As I posted in another thread, I know 2 people who can't zero below 300m with their NF BR scope and 20MOA base where as I CAN zero to 100 and below with the same scope on a 20moa base on my Rem action. The other 2 actions of my buddies are a Barnard and Nesika.
I don't know if my scope without my 20moa base would reach to 1000 or not. Alot depends on the action I think. As I posted in another thread, I know 2 people who can't zero below 300m with their NF BR scope and 20MOA base where as I CAN zero to 100 and below with the same scope on a 20moa base on my Rem action. The other 2 actions of my buddies are a Barnard and Nesika.
What you gain at long range, you can lose at short range. The object is to gain elevation without using up internal adjustment, and to try to use the centre portion of the scope's optics as much as possible. The Burris system gives you the best of both worlds.
I see there is now a Picatinny style base which is adjustable for windage and elevation. Made by Holland's Shooters Supply. As their ad says "Shoot to the optical Center of your rifle scope for maximum windage and elevation adjustment".
I see there is now a Picatinny style base which is adjustable for windage and elevation. Made by Holland's Shooters Supply. As their ad says "Shoot to the optical Center of your rifle scope for maximum windage and elevation adjustment".
For this rifle (a Rem. 700p ltr) .308, scope is a USO SN4, hoping to shoot in the 100-400 yard range.
Was thinking of going with Talley lightweight rings. Want this setup to be on the lighter side, not so much for hunting, just want this setup to be light and compact incase I want to carry it around. My other rifle is a fairly heavy build. It has a 20moa Seekins base and it got me thinking as to whether I need an incline or not for this new rifle.
Thanks for your advice gentlemen.
Artie Fufkin
Was thinking of going with Talley lightweight rings. Want this setup to be on the lighter side, not so much for hunting, just want this setup to be light and compact incase I want to carry it around. My other rifle is a fairly heavy build. It has a 20moa Seekins base and it got me thinking as to whether I need an incline or not for this new rifle.
Thanks for your advice gentlemen.
Artie Fufkin
Mystic Precision
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Summerland, BC
If shooting at LR but over a narrow distance ie 600 to 800yds, having a scope centered can work.
however, that defeats the whole point of having a scope with lots of internal adjustment. You want to have your short range zero at full 'down' on the elevation setting so you have the full range of your scope to go 'up'.
Saying that, you need to be aware that a lot of variable scopes loose optical accuity at extremes of elevation/windage adjustment. The larger the internal adj, the more likely this problem will crop up.
If you don't mind having your short range a bit blurry, no issue. Otherwise, you need to shim to use the maximum range of good optics. Unfortunately, that can be a lot less then the scope rating.
I have heard many criticise the Bushnell Elites for not having enough elevation travel. yes, most 1" target scopes are listed at 30mins or so. However, ALL of it is useable so you can shim the scope at full down and maintain clear optics.
I am hoping to test the new 6500 next year and see if their much larger range of adj is useable.
Some big name scopes have much large adj but loose their optical quality a each end rendering the useable range to be quite small. This I believe is what has lead to this practise of setting the scope in the optical center of adj.
Before buying a very expensive piece of metal (MOA base), shoot your rifle with your prefered load and see where your scope adjustment lies. It might already by good to go. As those Barnard and Nesika shooters are finding out.
If your scope gives you 40mins of up and you only have 15 mins of up left, then shimming your scope up to 30mins is viable. Remember that when you shim your scope, the scope distance from the bore changes so the scope now 'sees' the target differently. This will affect the final amount of shimming you need.
Big reason I love the Burris rings, they can be incrementally adjusted.
Jerry
Artie, if you are shooting 100-400y, you don't need to worry about a base with built in elevation. The come up from 100 to 400 isn't all that great. If your 100y zero is such that you haven't used up a lot of elevation, you should be good to go. If you want a bit of a boost, use the Burris inserts. One of the other really nice things about Burris Signature rings, is that the scope lies "in neutral", and does not get tweaked or marred.
In my own particular experience, a 20 MOA base becomes useful after 600 meters (not including 22 LR). I shoot mostly 308, although I also try pretty much every caliber that comes down the pike. With the right scope, you won't need the extra MOA, but it does let you play out further. - dan
Minutes? What the heck is this, the dark ages?
14.7 mils... 50 MOA roughly. So it depends on your scope whether or not the 20 MOA base is needed. With a cheapy 1" tube, I imagine so.
Thats with a 50 yard zero.
There are good answers and exceptions here. I suppose the summary answer would be that it depends on how much internal adjustment your scope has and the distances you honestly plan to shoot. I am an F-class addict so I am shooting from 300 to 900 meters in local competitions.
Jerry touched on it, but scopes and their reticles tend to perform best when they are centered... that is to say, the middle of their optical magnification an the middle of their clockwork range. Ask youself HONESTLY what distances you plan to shoot and what results you are trying to achieve. If it is occasional 1000M stuff to rub that tingle you get to try that stuff, then using your scope at the extreme edge of its movement may be OK. If you are looking for match type repeatability, then use a taper that will result in the middle 50% of your adjustments covering the distances you are shooting. For me that is honestly a 10 MOA taper, but since I subconsciously think taper is a reflection of my virility, I use a 20 MOA base.
Jerry touched on it, but scopes and their reticles tend to perform best when they are centered... that is to say, the middle of their optical magnification an the middle of their clockwork range. Ask youself HONESTLY what distances you plan to shoot and what results you are trying to achieve. If it is occasional 1000M stuff to rub that tingle you get to try that stuff, then using your scope at the extreme edge of its movement may be OK. If you are looking for match type repeatability, then use a taper that will result in the middle 50% of your adjustments covering the distances you are shooting. For me that is honestly a 10 MOA taper, but since I subconsciously think taper is a reflection of my virility, I use a 20 MOA base.
