What do I need to rebarrel a Savage SA?

[diegocn]

Hi,

I want to rebarrel my Savage 10 Precision Carbine in 308 win into a 16" lightweight (.620) barrel to make a nice hunting rifle. This is my first time doing it, I want to make sure if I have all the required tools.

At the moment I have:
- Wheeler Eng Savage barrel nut wrench
- 308 Go/No Go gauge
- 5" bench vise
- Torque wrench

To my understanding, the process is to clamp down the receiver into a bench vise, loosen the barrel wrench, twist off the factory barrel, twist on the new barrel + nut, headspace using gauges, and tighten the barrel nut to torque spec?

Does this mean I pretty much have everything I need to do the job? Maybe I need to make some aluminum v-blocks so my action does not get marred up?

If this turns out good, I also have a Remington model 7 that I want to rebarrel with remage prefit. I think all I need extra is an action wrench for Remington correct? I've been looking at the Wheeler Eng #2 Action Wrench. Has anyone been using the same wrench?

Thanks in advance.

 

[tiriaq]

I would not try to hold a receiver in a machinist's vise while trying to remove a barrel or loosen a Savage barrel nut. Too much risk of marring or damaging the receiver.
You could secure the barrel in a barrel vise and apply the nut wrench.

To remove the Model 7 barrel you will need a receiver wench and a barrel vise.

 

[guntech]

Some times you need a barrel vice, and action wrench and a nut wrench... and the go gauge and a piece of tape.

 

[IvoB]

...

 

[tiriaq]

There are some actions that can have barrels removed and replaced with improvised tools. The '94 Winchester comes to mind. Padded machinists' vise, a length of nylon rope and a pickax handle...
Generally speaking though, it is better to bite the bullet and acquire proper tooling.
I personally don't care for the barrel nut system. I've rebarreled Savages, even made a barrel nut setup to install a 110 barrel on a R700, but I find barrel nuts to be fiddly. I much prefer a proper locking shoulder on a replacement barrel.

 

[diegocn]

I would not try to hold a receiver in a machinist's vise while trying to remove a barrel or loosen a Savage barrel nut. Too much risk of marring or damaging the receiver.
You could secure the barrel in a barrel vise and apply the nut wrench.

To remove the Model 7 barrel you will need a receiver wench and a barrel vise.

When you said damage do you mean cosmetic marring or more serious issues like bending/twisting the receiver out of spec?

In term of action wrench, does any canadian vendor carry them? So far I've only been able to find them in the states.

Also I see 2 different styles of of action wrench, those that wraps around the receiver with a big handle attached, and those that lock onto the bolt raceway. My understanding is that I DON'T want the latter one when taking the factor barrel off because I risk twisting / damaging the receiver?

 

[tiriaq]

Using a machinists' vise to hold the receiver could result in both cosmetic and structural damage. Receiver could be marred, distorted.
The amount of torque required to break loose a factory barrel might surprise you.
If things are really tight, I would prefer an external wrench. I have both internal and external wrenches, and for factory barrel removal use the latter. For barrel installation, the internal wrench is very convenient.

I don't know if any Canadian business is manufacturing barrel vises or receiver wrenches. There might be businesses importing the ones you see advertised in the US.

I would suggest that you have a professional remove your barrel. Many folks report success in installing barrel nut prefits.

 

[KePet]

You are asking specifically about Savage SA’s. Up until a year ago I had never changed a barrel on a Savage. I have now done several.

It’s really not difficult. I got everything I need from Gary Eakin at Bighorn sales in BC. A Wheeler barrel wrench, a Viper barrel vies, and go/no go gauges in the required caliber. Total cost was less than one barrel change if I sent it out to be done. Watch some YouTube videos. Talked with Gary, who I knew I could call if I had a problem.

Yes, you could probably DIY for a barrel vise, or maybe use another type of vise, but for the cost, why take the chance with your action. As I stated above, it’s really not that difficult, if you have any mechanical aptitude at all.

 

[tiriaq]

Having a barrel nut wrench, and a machinists' vise, it might be possible to remove the barrel by making a set of hardwood blocks to hold the barrel in the vise.
Rough a groove in each block that is close to fitting. Coat the barrel with release agent and bed the barrel into the blocks using JB Weld, which is readily available and not expensive. After the compound has cured, knock the blocks off the barrel and clean off all traces of release agent. Apply some icing sugar to the moulded grooves in the blocks and clamp the barrel in the vise. Apply the barrel nut wrench to the barrel nut, and apply force to unscrew the barrel nut toward the muzzle. Might help to give the wrench a sharp crack. If the nut turns, you are on your way.

 

[OkayShooter]

When you said damage do you mean cosmetic marring or more serious issues like bending/twisting the receiver out of spec?

In term of action wrench, does any canadian vendor carry them? So far I've only been able to find them in the states.

Also I see 2 different styles of of action wrench, those that wraps around the receiver with a big handle attached, and those that lock onto the bolt raceway. My understanding is that I DON'T want the latter one when taking the factor barrel off because I risk twisting / damaging the receiver?

I actually broke my 6" mechanics vise trying to pull off the barrel. It was garbage anyways. Guess didn't like the toque being applied and snapped the 3/4" thick hardened steel jaws. And when it went, it took an 1/8th off the barrel as it gouged. Sad thing now, I cannot get replacement jaws for it..

 

[tiriaq]

My heavy vise is one that would be hard to damage. I found it in one of the old USAF dumps near Frobisher Bay. They had dumped the contents of a shop. It is a 6" vise, but weighs about 150 pounds. Fortunately it was in two pieces, which made it easier to get to the truck. I had to replace the handle. Used a steel round bar 24" long.
Most of the contents of the shop had been burned, including a lathe with a 10' bed.
I use this one to hold my barrel vise. Very solid.
Don't know the make of my smaller vise. It is a swivel base (worth having) and is different in that it is the rear jaw that moves. It tracks on a dovetail and even has a gib to adjust the fit.
Mount the vise relative to the edge of the bench so that a barrel can be held vertically.
Actually, a good vise is one of the first tools to get when setting up a shop. Avoid oriental imports. Watch auctions and garage sales. Records turn up often, and you might get lucky and find a Wilton. If the handle is battered by being hammered on, the screw and nut may be damaged. Check.

 

[Claven2]

just found this thread (necro, I know). The record No.4 is a staple in the gunsmithing world, swivel base is a must. I mills the serrations off the jaws, smooth with diamond sanding plates and polish to 200 grit. Ensures you never transfer checker marks to a gun part. Leather jaw pads and a set of wool felt jaw blocks are also good items to get or make.

The No.4 is deceivingly small in photos and actually has 4.5" jaws - in person it's a really large vise, at least double the size of any chinese "4" vise". some internet stores still sell replacement jaws and other parts for them.

My record No.4 setup here:

Only thing I don't like about it is the vintage England Record vises have no tail anvil, so I need a separate anvil in the shop for straightening pins, etc.

Anyone that shells out a thousand+ for some fancy Orange precision gunsmithing vise or whatever has more money then sense, in this man's opinion.

For a barrel vise, honestly, just buy the Brownells one and get or make the barrel contour inserts. I made by own action wrench years ago from an old heavy barrel and some steel stock. Just copy the commercial ones for sale. A bench vise is not, and never will be, a barrel vise.