What glue to fix forestock?

tigrr

tigrr

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
46   0   0
Location
Burns Lake BC
What is the best glue to fix my cracked forestock. 2 part epoxy didn't work. Any ideas? I can get the 2 part epoxy off with heat and a wire wheel back down to bare wood. Browning auto 5 magnum part number P011170. I would love a composite stock.



 
I am not an expert wood repair guy, but I think you get one chance to glue a repair correctly - you have used up that one chance. The remnants of the glue / epoxy that you used are now going to hold the wood pieces apart for whatever you do next - so magnifier glasses - tiny scrapers - have to peel that off without removing wood fibres. For a similar attempt, I used "Hot Stuff" from Lee Valley - like water - very "thin" stuff - to trickle into very tiny cracks. It is a cyonacrylate glue - so like crazy glue - sticks and holds like crazy when it sets- but so far as I know you get one chance at it - no readjusting, etc. You probably need something that has next to "zero" thickness to hold tightly - other wise you get a glue line when you are done - I have many "glue lines" showing here - is actually hard to get the correct glue, clamped tight, etc. Guys who can glue wood pieces without glue lines amaze me!!!
 
Last edited:
My "go to" epoxy is Industrial Formulators G1 Epoxy, it is very similar to G2 Epoxy that is available at LEE Valley and other good stores. The big difference between G1 and G2 is the mix. G1, used in Homebuilt aircraft construction is a 1:1 mix where G2 is a 2:1 ...... 2 parts epoxy and 1 part hardener. They are both very good Epoxies.
Clean it up, put a good coating of G1 or G2 and put a wrap of wax paper around it then wrap it tight for about 12 hours. That epoxy will never fail.
 
I've glued and pinned many stocks with great success but you will not win on an auto 5 stock. I quit wasting my time trying to fix them years ago. They tend to blow apart and give slivers. I've replacing them with replacements from Robert Wilson at Harris SK. They aren't finished but are close. The last one was only $50. I bought a "GOOD" one once for $80 off a guy on the EE and it was $80 out the window.
 
billdick said:
I've glued and pinned many stocks with great success but you will not win on an auto 5 stock. I quit wasting my time trying to fix them years ago. They tend to blow apart and give slivers. .....
Click to expand...

Gotta admit. I laughed at that because I can see it happening.

On a serious note to the OP, when there isn't much material to work with, especially for side grain out of some indifferently kiln dried chunk of industrial walnut, using pins and mechanical reinforcements begins to make sense. The British No.4 stock has some very particular bearing surfaces that are machined out of raw lumber. Naturally over time the important relationships of steel and wood fail. The Ordnance Corps accepted fix is bits of hard wood and dowels to replace the oil-soaked wartime standard work.
 
Potashminer said:
I am not an expert wood repair guy, but I think you get one chance to glue a repair correctly - you have used up that one chance.
Click to expand...

Pretty much - yes ....



billdick said:
I've glued and pinned many stocks with great success but you will not win on an auto 5 stock. I quit wasting my time trying to fix them years ago. They tend to blow apart and give slivers. I've replacing them with replacements from Robert Wilson at Harris SK. They aren't finished but are close. The last one was only $50. I bought a "GOOD" one once for $80 off a guy on the EE and it was $80 out the window.
Click to expand...

Looking at the construction of the stock I think this ^^^ sounds on the money. I think I can see another crack forming at the bottom of the stock.


If I were you, I would go for the composite stock you want - if you ~~really~~ want to try to save this one, cut the broken bit out and graft a new piece on using a quality PVA glue. Then cut/file/shape to fit.
 
I agree with sean69. You will not be able to remove all of the epoxy without removing some wood, which will result in the original pieces no longer fitting. No adhesive will make a good bond over epoxy. PVA has a shear strength of approximately 3000 PSI on a well-fitted joint and I would consider it to be the best choice.
 
Not to hi-jack OP's thread, but could anyone recommand a glue that would work on a polymer/glass resin type of a stock?
 
For OP I'd contact someone that does 'real furniture' repairs, they may have a solution but it may be cheaper to replace the stock. One chance may be putting some dowels or pin in there or a biscuit?
Re CVZ's question, I'd like to knotoo. I have an AR-7 OEM from the 60s that needs repair. Any suggestions for that stock?
 
None of the glues mentioned will work as well .Use paint remover to clean the old epoxy out. Than use cyanoacrylate or crazy glue if you will.Than clamp it .Most glues require a certain amount of glue left in the joint to work .So when you clamp it tight you starve the joint .That is the beauty of cyanoacrylate it soaks into the actual pores of the wood so you can clamp it tight and still have a strong joint plus its invisible if done right. If you don't believe me just put some between your fingers,than try some epoxy or gorilla glue see witch one holds lol
 
IPolyurethane adhesives have gap filling properties and will work well even with poorly fitted pieces. The bond is stronger then the original wood. Crazy glue can't compete
 
Something you're not thinking about is how an auto 5 functions. The barrel "SLAMS" into that piece of wood every time you pull the trigger and it slams hard. Just buy a new piece of wood. Ram Line and Champion used to make plastic stocks for the auto 5's but I haven't seen one for sale for years.
 
Shooter1971 said:
IPolyurethane adhesives have gap filling properties and will work well even with poorly fitted pieces. The bond is stronger then the original wood. Crazy glue can't compete
Click to expand...

Yup, I agree.

Another trick is to water down Gorrilla Glue with 50% water. Then wipe the mixture all over the area with cracks and the edges of the block you want to glue together.

Before applying glue, clean out all of the grease, with a good solvent, then put the piece into a pot of boiling water for a couple of minutes.

The boiling water will get rid of any residues left behind and open the pores of the wood, so the thinned down glue will be able to bond better.

Clamp it all together and leave it for a couple of days to cure properly.

The Gorilla Glue will foam a bit during the curing process, but that's a good thing. That means it's penetrating and becoming part of the wood.

It just takes a bit of time and some refinishing.

I've repaired several different shotgun fore ends using this method, including those one Browning Auto Fives and Remington type clones.
 
billdick said:
Something you're not thinking about is how an auto 5 functions. The barrel "SLAMS" into that piece of wood every time you pull the trigger and it slams hard. Just buy a new piece of wood. Ram Line and Champion used to make plastic stocks for the auto 5's but I haven't seen one for sale for years.
Click to expand...
It is interesting that the OP's broken piece is from the front of the forend where the magazine cap screws on. These guns are notorious for splitting the rear of the forend (i just finished repairing the forend of my Dad's Remington Model 11 which is an Auto-5 clone) but I think it is unusual for the front to split.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom