What is needed for basic kit?

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Hollow Point

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What is needed for a basic reloading kit? I started to assemble a reloading kit a few years ago but then got distracted. with prices of ammo going up and up i think its time i get it together. i have the following. (looking to reload 22-250 and 308 win)

RCBS rock chucker supreme
shell holders for 223 and 308
RCBS calipers
Gem pro scale

Are competition dies worth the extra money?
neck size or full size?
 
I think you have a good start? Hope that you have check weights or something for that electronic scale - I personally trust gravity more than electronics, but I am old. You do not say what kind of rifles or for what purpose you are loading?? - typical semi auto might need a small base die for sizing, but have read that Lee regular Full Length sizing die is close to same size - so worth a try if loading a 223 or 308 semi-auto. Usually comes with a bullet seating die. And you will need some way to lube your cases to re-size them. And a set-up to extract stuck case if you do not lube case adequately. If you have dreams of competing and winning, probably need more stuff like body dies and neck dies, possible neck thickness trimmers, etc., but for basic "go bang" stuff - pretty much need a way to trim for case length, and to chamfer the cut case mouth, and then decide how you will meter powder - I used to use an RCBS Uniflow - worked fine to throw a charge into a scale pan, then use trickle tool to bring up to weight. Gave it and other gear to brother for him to get started - now use Lee scoops - - a dipper set, and have a Lee Powder measure - same idea - throw a slightly known-to-be-light charge into scale pan, then trickle up to weight on a balance scale. Is slow - not going to do 500 or 1,000 rounds in an evening that way - maybe you need to or not?? Guys who do volume reloading will advise what goodies are needed for that. I had used the hand held Lee prime tool for years until it wore out - for a full "session" I will use a RCBS Bench Mount Priming tool, but for small numbers of loads, I often just use the tool that came on the loading press. With any amount of attention, is very hard to show that the various (expensive) priming systems actually make a difference on targets, for most shooters like me.
 
Hollow Point said:
What is needed for a basic reloading kit? I started to assemble a reloading kit a few years ago but then got distracted. with prices of ammo going up and up i think its time i get it together. i have the following. (looking to reload 22-250 and 308 win)

RCBS rock chucker supreme
shell holders for 223 and 308
RCBS calipers
Gem pro scale

Are competition dies worth the extra money?
neck size or full size?
Click to expand...

A headspace gauge for the cartridges you want to reload is handy to have - Lyman makes a decent one.
A case trimmer can be handy too. Standalone ones are a little pricey if you're trying to budget, but you can get one that just chucks into a drill press.
A chamfer/deburring tool for when you have to trim cases.

I find a hand priming tool to be pretty convenient, but not really necessary, more of a nice to have.

I use a full length resizing die, and I'd go with that if I had to choose. One benefit is you can reuse brass that may have been fired in another chamber, especially handy if you have multiple rifles in the same chambering or you're collecting range brass. Haven't used a competition die, so I can't say from firsthand experience, but I've had good luck with just regular Lee/RCBS dies.
 
A late thought - get a reloading manual - most any brand has very good step-by-step how to do instructions. The Speer manuals that I have seem to show mostly using RCBS products, which are just fine. Hornady manual has lots of Hornady tools shown, and so on. Understand that the Richard Lee organization's "manual" has good information, generally, but they do not actually test for pressure to create their load data - they are re-publishing loads that are available from other actual original sources.

And may as well get clear why reloading manual data will likely be different, one to the next - each gives a complete "recipe" that they used - the primer, the brass, the powder and the bullet, and then usually gives the particular firearm that they tested it in, or at least the barrel length and barrel maker. They report the results that they got, with what they used. Unless you are using same lot of primers, same lot of same brass, same lot of powder, same lot of bullets, in their rifle (not in your rifle), your results may differ. Why every manual that I have says to start LOW - at Start load - and work up - none of them promise that you can use their Max loads in your rifle - maybe you can - maybe you can do more than they did, maybe you can not even get there - is all too be expected. They are all "guidelines", not "promises". And when you chose to use different components - different primers, brass, powder or bullets - you are not using their recipe - you are making your own - so is all on you.
 
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OP:
Whether or not the competition dies are worth the extra money will depend on you accuracy requirements, your shooting ability, and your guns' accuracy potential. Also, your OCD characteristics (if any) may have an influence here. I only went with an RCBS micrometer seater for 308 Win (my most accurate rifle) as a test, to see if adjusting seating depth to a repeatability of 0.001" mattered.

As has been mentioned, a reloading manual (or 3) should be next on you list. Any of the bullet manufacturers (Sierra, Hornady, Berger) will emphasize their own products. I found the Sierra fairly equipment neutral, since they only make and sell bullets. Lyman's manual (49th and 50th) will feature their reloading gear and moulds, but most commonly available jacketed bullets.

Another good read is "The ABCs of Reloading".
 
I didn't have much luck priming cases using the Rock Chucker on-press system. Try it, and if it seems like a pain in the as*, it probably is. I use an RCBS hand primer now, the one that uses a shell holder to hold the cases, not the universal model.
 
To get started with the most basic/starter reloading set up, you will need this:

1. Press (single stage) O frame
2. Scale (beam scale) for weighing powder charges and bullets.
3. Priming tool (some presses come with a priming tool, LEE for example)
4. reloading die set for your chosen cartridge AND shell holder (LEE dies come with shell holder)
5. trimmer (not needed for most handgun cartridges) use the LEE handheld trimmers for about $15
6. powder funnel
7. loading block (easy to make it yourself with a piece of 2x4 and a drill)
8. case preparation tools (inside/outside neck chamfer, large and small primer pocket cleaners)
9. caliper (digital or dial)
10. bullet puller, because you will need one eventually

This is a basic setup that will make excellent quality ammunition and is all that many shooters will ever require. At some point you may want to add a powder measure and some kind of brass cleaning machine but you don't need it right away. An experienced reloader can make 50-100 cartridges per hour with that setup.
 
Get your loading blocks from the garbage can at the range. Plastic factory ammo box liners from pistol calibres.

9mm box liners work for 9mm (obviously), .223/5.56, .222
45 ACP plastic works for .308, 22-250 .30-06, 6.5 creed, etc.

Standard full-length sizing dies are the way to go for a beginner.
Neck sizing dies extend the life of your brass, and may provide a slight edge for a precision shooting competitor, but you can't shoot the reloads in a different rifle than the one they were originally fired from. You will still need a set of full length dies to size them back every once in a while anyways.
Like neck sizing dies, competition dies are for specialists. You can produce very accurate ammo without them.
Aside from what you hear on the internet, small-base dies are usually not needed for most semi-autos. Most semi-auto rifles have generously cut chambers anyways.
 
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Reloading isn't terribly complicated, it just seems like it when you 're starting. Read manuals and watch videos, but you won't really understand it completely until you do it yourself. Get a press, a die set, and pick up range brass, deprime it, seat a bullet.

Gun Digest made some online videos that are worth seeing.

episode-01-basics-reloading
episode-2-tools
episode-3-case-resizing
episode-4-primers
episode 5 Powders
episode-6-bullets
episode 7 specialty brass
episode-8-troubleshooting
episode 9 Primer Assembly
hepisode 10 cartridge assembly


hHickok45 Reloading Basics
 
Hollow Point said:
do all brands of dies use the same thread pitch? Could i use the the hornady quick change bushings in a RCBS press?
Click to expand...

Most manufacturers use a 7/8-14 thread for their dies. I've seen comments that some Dillon dies are model specific, but other than that...
I've used Hornady, Lee, Redding and RCBS dies in my Rockchucker press..

I hav eno idea about the Hornady quick change bushings.
 
Hollow Point said:
do all brands of dies use the same thread pitch? Could i use the the hornady quick change bushings in a RCBS press?
Click to expand...
The dies themselves will work in almost any press but i think the Hornady bushings will only work in a Hornady press designed for the hornady bushings. You won't be able to use hornady quick change bushings in a Lee press for example.
 
Quick-change die bushings are great upgrades for a single stage press if you reload for multiple calibres. You get the speed of die changes with the ruggedness of an "O" press. There are two proprietary systems that I know of: The Hornady lock & load system and the new LEE Breech-lock system. Both styles have adapter kits available to upgrade standard presses to this system. The bigger presses like the RCBS Rockchucker etc. (not the bargain-basement kit ones like "partner", etc) are equipped with a threaded sleeve that can be removed to accommodate dies larger than the standard 7/8"-14. The adapters will fit into this larger thread size.

I have both adapter sets and for reloading dies I prefer the Hornady Lock&Load sleeves which use locking lugs as opposed to the cheaper Lee system which uses an aluminum sleeve with an interrupted thread. The Lee system is needed if you want to use their new series of cast bullet sizing dies, but again, that's another rabbit-hole for advanced reloaders.

Edited to add:
On the subject of changing dies, the one thing I don't like about Lee die sets is that the locking rings do not have a set-screw or clamping screw to keep the lock-ring in position. That means you need to confirm the adjustment of the dies every time you change dies. This can be avoided by using quick-change die sleeves (as described above), or upgrading with better locking rings. Either way the added expense offsets the initial cost-savings of choosing Lee dies.
 
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Hi Hollow Point,
This is what I started out with:

Lyman and Lee reloading manuals: I read them both before buying anything. Then I watched a ton of YouTube videos for perspective, but there is good, not so good, and bad on YT, so read the reloading manuals for the solid foundation to help filter and interpret the YT videos.

Press: Lee Classic Cast

Priming: on press using Lee Safety Prime.

Case trimming: Lee Case Length Gauges, Lock Stud for drill, and Cutter with Ball Grip, and Lee Chamfer and deburr tool. Later I got the 3 Jaw Chuck which is faster than the lock stud adapter.

Balance scale: RCBS M500 scale

Trickler: RCBS Powder Trickler

Powder measure: Lee Dippers entire Powder Measure Kit. Heavy coffee mug for powder.

Head Space Gauge: Started with LE Wilson Case Gauges. Then switched to RCBS Precision Mic, and Whidden Case Gauge.

Ogive case length: Hornady Bullet Comparator kit.

Decapping: to avoid messing up my press and work area with depriming gunk and debris, I decided from the beginning to do all my decapping off press and therefore bought the Frankford Arsenal Hand De-Primer Tool. It was a good decision and its the only thing I use for decapping. But it is not designed for military crimped primers. That will have to be done on the press or other tool.

Dies: Started with the Lee Ultimate Rifle 4-die set for my calibers. I prefer to neck size only using the Lee Collet Die neck sizing die, and not full length resize unless the case needs a FL resize (and that is where the head space gauges are used first to check each case before that sizing decision is made). With my rifles (all bolt action) and brass I find I rarely have to FL resize, but I do so after 5 firings anyway.

Reloading trays: One blue Frankford Arsenal Universal, one red MTM Universal.

Bullet Puller: RCBS.

Tumbler: Lyman Turbo 1200, and corn cob media.

Calipers: I started with a cheapo electronic, and this was a mistake. It is not consistent and moves and flickers with variable thumb wheel pressure - junk. I then purchased a Hornady dial caliper and trust it much more, as it does not move when the thumb wheel is closed.

Later with experience I branched out with additional specialized gear and dies and measuring tools as I learned more about seating depth, neck turning, neck tension, concentricity, sonic cleaning, annealing, etc, it never ends. But the above basic kit got me started for a reasonable cost.


Reloading is super rewarding.
 
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