What lube do you use in your bolt?
- Thread starter pilot24
- Start date
Rod B
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The locking lugs on the bolt require a heavier lubrican than gun oil.
For the past couple of years I have been using the red colored synthetic wheel bearing grease. I also use this on the hinge points of o/u shotguns.
This product is inexpensive about $5.00 for a 14oz tube ( probably a lifetime supply as only a small ammount required). Its available at any auto parts store.
Rod.
For the past couple of years I have been using the red colored synthetic wheel bearing grease. I also use this on the hinge points of o/u shotguns.
This product is inexpensive about $5.00 for a 14oz tube ( probably a lifetime supply as only a small ammount required). Its available at any auto parts store.
Rod.
I use a tiny bit of grease on the locking lugs, and the rest of the rifle gets ATF for oil.
There are other 'rust preventative' products available for guns, as well. Good to use on a blued rifle prior to hunting trips.
There are other 'rust preventative' products available for guns, as well. Good to use on a blued rifle prior to hunting trips.
Geez, I never use any grease or lubricant of any kind. I clean the bolt with gun oil but most of it gets wiped off. Enough must stay on to protect agains corrosion since it hasn't ever been an issue.
I use to lube the bolt on my m70 winchester with a little bit more gun oil but it always gummed up and made the bolt feel like crap. It works much better clean and dry.
I would think that any grease on the locking lugs would plug up with crap.
Maybe I'm missing out on something??
I use to lube the bolt on my m70 winchester with a little bit more gun oil but it always gummed up and made the bolt feel like crap. It works much better clean and dry.
I would think that any grease on the locking lugs would plug up with crap.
Maybe I'm missing out on something??
Brambles said:
You need only the TINIEST OF TINY dots of grease on the back of the locking lugs to be good.
And I mean TINY!!! Like half of a dot tiny!!
And you don't need to do it every time out at the range, it's one of those things that you do when you completely strip your rifle, a couple of times a year.
And there you have it folks... Bartell pulls his Goalie
I keep oil away from the bolt and lugs... it can cause all sorts of problems if you get even a little in the chamber. Remington Dry lube does work but I prefer all-weather litho... the red stuff!
I keep oil away from the bolt and lugs... it can cause all sorts of problems if you get even a little in the chamber. Remington Dry lube does work but I prefer all-weather litho... the red stuff!
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- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I uase a small dab of Jet-lube Moly on the bolt heads.
The rest of the bolt is cleaned and lubed with G96 ( doesn't build up, gum, or thicken up) then that is wiped off.
A microscopic bit is left, and that is all that is needed.
I know that Kenny Jarret ( Jarret rifles, and a BR shooter) uses ATF.
Cat
The rest of the bolt is cleaned and lubed with G96 ( doesn't build up, gum, or thicken up) then that is wiped off.
A microscopic bit is left, and that is all that is needed.
I know that Kenny Jarret ( Jarret rifles, and a BR shooter) uses ATF.
Cat
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PerversPépère
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Shawinigan (Quebec)
Synthetic grease
In high friction and pressure areas, I use Loctite's SuperLube synthetic grease.
You just clean and degrease the parts and apply a very small dab, spread it out then wipe it with a clean cloth. What's left is a trace on the surface and it is enough to slicken the works.
BTW, don't get it on your fingers, you'll find it is very difficult to get off even with multiple soap and hot water rinses.
No conventional oil inside the bolt's innards. If you want to use Teflon dry lube, fine. The idea here is DRY because it can't stiffen with cold like some oils do and hamper the striker blow.
PP.
In high friction and pressure areas, I use Loctite's SuperLube synthetic grease.
You just clean and degrease the parts and apply a very small dab, spread it out then wipe it with a clean cloth. What's left is a trace on the surface and it is enough to slicken the works.
BTW, don't get it on your fingers, you'll find it is very difficult to get off even with multiple soap and hot water rinses.
No conventional oil inside the bolt's innards. If you want to use Teflon dry lube, fine. The idea here is DRY because it can't stiffen with cold like some oils do and hamper the striker blow.
PP.
On the bolt lugs I use a tip I got from Ted Gaillard and apply a tiny dab of GM camshaft assembly lube with a toothpick. It stays where you put it, and is designed to prevent galling. The bolt threads get either a little bit of the same thing, or more likely a smear of Sig grease. A trace of the same stuff on the body of my Kimbers bolt smoothed it right out. The striker spring gets either nothing, or whatever G96 I can't wipe off.
Recently tried a synthetic spray grease from "Sharp Shooter Products" on a #4 Lee Enfield bolt as it doesn't freeze or gum up etc.
Made sure of course not to treat the chamber but gave the action a dose as well. It goes on thinner than water and penetrates the pores of the metal after which it dries to a very thin protective film.
It appears to give a nice lubricated feel to the action. I would normally use something like this on the bolt lugs only and then use a lighter oil on the body of the bolt but this product does stay in place better than an oil would .
Made sure of course not to treat the chamber but gave the action a dose as well. It goes on thinner than water and penetrates the pores of the metal after which it dries to a very thin protective film.
It appears to give a nice lubricated feel to the action. I would normally use something like this on the bolt lugs only and then use a lighter oil on the body of the bolt but this product does stay in place better than an oil would .
