What scope mounts should I use?

[Anthony_Slipp]

Last year I bought a brand new Savage #11 lightweight in .308, and paired it with a Leupold VXr in 3-9x40 power. I have never had much to do with optics, however the rifle has no iron sights, so requires a scope. I am struggling to find suitable scope mounts though. Due to some issues with my right eye, I need a fair amount on rearward eye relief, and the usual Leupold mounts will not let me move the scope far enough back to give me what I need on the highest magnification setting. The front scope ring is right up against the base of the front objective housing, and will not slide any further. Any suggestions on a good quality 1 piece rail/rings/picatinny setup? One other question, if I put a 20 MOA picatinny rail on this, will I still be able to zero the rifle at 150-200 yards?

 

[MackForce]

You will still be able to zero at 100 yards with a 20 MOA rail.
Try maybe a Talley rail? I believe they may be lightest. Also well made. I believe the weaver rails (at least by feel, I have never weighed them) are a bit heavier.
With the rail, you may need different rings also. Depending on where your scope bell sits with the rail, for a better fit.

 

[gunrunner100]

Depending on the mounts you use, you should be able to get at least one extension ring, if not 2. By mounting these so that the extension is pointed towards the back, will give you close to another inch.
The top portion of the Weaver ring is much wider than say Leupold/Redfield's extension rings, so it may be a good idea to take it to someone who has a variety of mounting options.

 

[nomad 68]

Talley lightweights should do the trick. They are available as an extension type ring. I believe the ones I have on my .243 are this type. I know turning the front ring around changes scope position quite a bit.

 

[tiriaq]

What would be the point of a 20moa base?
If fore and aft positioning is an issue, use extension rings.

 

[Boomer]

Last year I bought a brand new Savage #11 lightweight in .308, and paired it with a Leupold VXr in 3-9x40 power. I have never had much to do with optics, however the rifle has no iron sights, so requires a scope. I am struggling to find suitable scope mounts though. Due to some issues with my right eye, I need a fair amount on rearward eye relief, and the usual Leupold mounts will not let me move the scope far enough back to give me what I need on the highest magnification setting. The front scope ring is right up against the base of the front objective housing, and will not slide any further. Any suggestions on a good quality 1 piece rail/rings/picatinny setup? One other question, if I put a 20 MOA picatinny rail on this, will I still be able to zero the rifle at 150-200 yards?

It sounds to me like the rifle's length of pull is too long for you. A 3-9X40 hunting scope should have sufficient eye relief to allow a full field image at 9X when the ocular is even with, or slightly ahead of the rear bow of the trigger guard. Should it be necessary, I'd prefer to give up a bit of magnification, in exchange for not getting scope eyed from too much recoil and too little eye relief. That being said, the greatest latitude for mounting a scope on a rifle is a Picatinny rail, combined with rings that are the appropriate height for the diameter of the scope's bell and the height of the stock's comb. A 3-9X40 scope on a hunting rifle shouldn't require a sloped base when zeroed for typical big game hunting ranges, so a flat rail is all you need. Warne makes a nice mid priced rail, if you want cheap, there's EGW, if you prefer expensive try Near.

 

[horseman2]

Is it the mounts or the scope that is creating the problem?
What amount of eye relief are you trying to achieve?
Why did you settle on that particular scope?
How many scopes did you try before buying this scope?
How did a 20 moa rail enter the equation?
Most scopes will have a published eye relief. If you need 4.5" or 3.1" should have been reviewed prior to purchase.
How much room do you have to move the scope fore and aft?

 

[BRvalley]

keep in mind positioning a scope on a rail is very dependent on tube length on the scope...I had a weaver rail on a savage action and hard to trim off some of the rail as it was making contact with the objective bell

I'd say trimming LOP, slimmer butt pad, talley lightweight rings tend to offer a bit more play, extension rings, or new scope would be the directions to investigate for your situation...a rail would be the last option unless you like the cosmetic look of it

 

[Anthony_Slipp]

You will still be able to zero at 100 yards with a 20 MOA rail.
Try maybe a Talley rail? I believe they may be lightest. Also well made. I believe the weaver rails (at least by feel, I have never weighed them) are a bit heavier.
With the rail, you may need different rings also. Depending on where your scope bell sits with the rail, for a better fit.

I was looking at Talley's, Badger ordnance as well. Although I suspect the Badger's may be a bit overkill.

Talley lightweights should do the trick. They are available as an extension type ring. I believe the ones I have on my .243 are this type. I know turning the front ring around changes scope position quite a bit.

I'll look into them.

What would be the point of a 20moa base?
If fore and aft positioning is an issue, use extension rings.

I was looking at picatinny rails and didn't quite understand the MOA concept. On one of the threads I read, said that it could affect your ability to zero the rifle at shorter ranges. The Badger Ordnance, Savage SA/Accu-trigger P-Rail only comes in a 20 MOA flavor. Better to ask than spend money on something I don't need.

It sounds to me like the rifle's length of pull is too long for you. A 3-9X40 hunting scope should have sufficient eye relief to allow a full field image at 9X when the ocular is even with, or slightly ahead of the rear bow of the trigger guard. Should it be necessary, I'd prefer to give up a bit of magnification, in exchange for not getting scope eyed from too much recoil and too little eye relief. That being said, the greatest latitude for mounting a scope on a rifle is a Picatinny rail, combined with rings that are the appropriate height for the diameter of the scope's bell and the height of the stock's comb. A 3-9X40 scope on a hunting rifle shouldn't require a sloped base when zeroed for typical big game hunting ranges, so a flat rail is all you need. Warne makes a nice mid priced rail, if you want cheap, there's EGW, if you prefer expensive try Near.

The length of pull is pretty good. I prefer a shorter stock on a shotgun but a bit longer on a rifle. I concur with your statement of a picatinny rail offering the most flexibility.

Is it the mounts or the scope that is creating the problem?
What amount of eye relief are you trying to achieve?
Why did you settle on that particular scope?
How many scopes did you try before buying this scope?
How did a 20 moa rail enter the equation?
Most scopes will have a published eye relief. If you need 4.5" or 3.1" should have been reviewed prior to purchase.
How much room do you have to move the scope fore and aft?

I believe it is the mounts. There is loads of room to move it back. I think 1/4 to 1/2 an inch should do it.
I chose the scope based on reviews and what I could afford in the Leupold Gold Ring lineup.
That was the only scope I tried. Not much experience with optics.
Badger Ordnance P-Rail only comes in a 20 MOA flavor for the Savage SA/Accu-Trigger model.
I did not know about the published eye relief. I will for the future though.
Loads. I can probably go two inches rearward before it becomes an issue.

keep in mind positioning a scope on a rail is very dependent on tube length on the scope...I had a weaver rail on a savage action and hard to trim off some of the rail as it was making contact with the objective bell

I'd say trimming LOP, slimmer butt pad, talley lightweight rings tend to offer a bit more play, extension rings, or new scope would be the directions to investigate for your situation...a rail would be the last option unless you like the cosmetic look of it

Duly noted. Thanks. I think I'll take it over to the local gun shop and bring up everyones concerns and see if I can get this to work. I really hope I don't have to eat this scope cost though. It wasn't cheap.

 

[DMS1]

+1 on the talleys. I'm with BRV above on the opinion of a rail being the last option. I like my scope mounted as low as possible for cheek weld. I see a ton of rifles with a rail and big honking tactical rings, and the objective is 1/2" or more above the barrel. Then they add a crappy looking stock pack to get proper cheek weld. All of this adding unnecessary weight if your rig is for hunting. Talleys are available in low and extra low. Most sellers recommend the medium as a do all, but on a 40mm scope I use the extra lows depending upon the barrel profile. I have not had any issues with bolt clearance on my rifles. My point is you should be able to get the movement you want fore/aft without going higher than is necessary.