What to do with powder?

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glenliz87

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Hello all!
I have been reading here and there about handloaders using fast burning powders in high power rifles. What's the scoop with this? Is this possible? If so, I have pistol powders that I will no longer need which are: Win 231, Bullseye, U-Clays, & Titegroup. I would like to use up these powders if possible in a rifle. I do realize that if it would be possible I would think the powder charge should be in the range of 5 - 6 grains. I just use my rifles for plinking anyway and using about 50 grains of rifle powder (H380 or Varget) does not give me very many rounds per lb. I am presently using a .308 Win. & .303 Br. Can someone please shed some light on this subject? Thanks in advance.
 
Welcome to CGN! Hope you enjoy it here.

I read not too long ago in a magazine about some "plinking" loads for the 308 Winchester that used a faster powder. I will try to find the article later but I don't recall any of the ones you listed being used. You might also need some filler on top of the small amount of powder to get somewhat consistent loads.


Fudd
 
Thanks for the info ElmerFudd. I've only been reloading for 5 years but pistol only. I just started loading for rifle this past spring that's why I am asking. I always like to try new things but as long as I know that it's safe to do so. By the way, is it absolutely necessary to use a filler? This likely sounds stupid, but I don't even know what a filler is or where I can get it.
 
Don't use pistol powders in rifle cartidges. Some very experienced reloaders may do this but by your question you're not one of these (me either).

Put in on the lawn, garden or flower bed. The results will surprise you as it is a very good fertilizer.
 
I have zero knowlage about this. BUT i would just give/sell the powder to someone else.

20 bucks of powder is not worth my rifle, my life, people shooting around me lives.

My 2 cents.
 
Thanks recce, I would say that is the safest option as I am not an experienced rifle reloader. However, I would not look forward to cutting my lawn more often....:D
 
Better yet sell it to someone that can use it or give it away if it's just small quantities. Trying to save a few pennies with unsafe loads is like cutting off your nose to spite your face. The loads that you're talking about if not put together properly, could detonate rather than burn progressively. The lite loads useing fast powder require case fillers with separators to keep the powder separate and all together with very little air space, next light bullets or even cast bullets. And that's just enough to get you into trouble. Check out a good manual, like a Lyman or Lee for cast bullet loads. We always had some fellow on a hunting trip that wanted to shoot 110 grain hollow points intended for M1 carbines in their 308 or 30-06 to use for grouse and rabbits. The only problem with these loads is that they had a totally different point of aim and the hunting scope needed to be adjusted each time the rifle was used for the light load and back again for the heavy hunting load. If gas checked lead bullets were used, there was also a fouling problem, try changeing the adjustments on a scope several times dureing a hunting trip and see how long it takes for a disaster to happen accuracy wise. Those loads are just a problem waiting to happen. Just stick with the normal accuracy/hunting loads unless you read carefully and follow instructions to a TEE. Then be prepared to spend more on sighting in your rifle with each changeover than you will save. bearhunter
 
Use the fast powder in your rifle but with cast bullets only. Get a Lyman manual for load info, and info on how to get good results with lead bullets.
 
glenliz87 said:
Thanks recce, I would say that is the safest option as I am not an experienced rifle reloader. However, I would not look forward to cutting my lawn more often....:D
Click to expand...
Do your neighbours like cutting their grass and how much do you like them? ;) :D
 
Thanks everyone for your replies. They have been most helpful. I'll just keep using my rifle powders and load the way I have been without problems. I surely don't want to risk hurting anyone or damaging a rifle. I would like to read about more on this subject however to see what kind of results were achieved using a faster powder.
 
FWIW, I have been using 700x and Unique in rifle cartridges for years, and have fired a good many rounds. I use lead bullets, some with gas checks, some without. Flake powder such as 700x lights easily. At 10 gr. of 700x behind a 150 gr. lead, I can shoot all day without having to sell any of my kids. I use the same formula for 30-30, 308, 30-06, 8mm Mauser, 7.62x54r Russian, 7.63 Arg, etc. Each to his own, but I can't seem to convince myself that going to a range and letting off a half dozen bazooka rounds out of a $2000 rifle would be the thing for me. Again, each to his own.
 
The lyman cast bullet Handbook is a must for using light loads/pistol powders/cast bullets, they publish loads for most rifles with fast burning powders, as an example..for the .308 they list 8 grs. of 700x and 170gr. cast bullet and 1209fps, same bullet 10 grs. Unique 1368fps....I wouldn't stray from their published/tested loads......The all round best powders for red. loads and cast bullets are AA5744 and IMR 4759 however.
 
Ther's nothing very risky about it - like guninhand said, use the Lyman reloading manual, use cast bullets - just don't double a charge. Don't worry about the air space in the cartridge case - fillers are usually counter productive. Fast powder has been used for plinking loads with cast bullets for 100 yrs or so. Another good source of information is the Cast Bullet Association.

Good luck, hope you enjoy your cast bullet loads.
Grouch.
 
Thanks everyone for the help. Looks like I will give this a try once I can locate some lead bullets. My Lyman 48th lists some cast bullets. Looks like I will have to purchase a powder that is listed in the manual & do away with the pistol powders I have now since they are not listed for .308. By the way, can a jacketed bullet be used if cast is not readily available. I have about 100 each of 125gr & 165gr PSPCL. I really wouldn't want to use these bullets for plinking, I like to save them for the bigger critters. I'll do some looking around and find out where I can buy some lead bullste locally. Again, thanks for all the help. I am looking forward to trying another new load!
 
I use Bluedot in my .223 for gophers, got the load data from www. jamescalhoon.com and it works great. He has a good article on his site explaining the use of reduced loads in his "informaTIVE ARTICLES" SECTION. Sorry 'bout the caps, wasn't shouting.
 
I actually did some work using a fast pistol powder to drive a regular bullet at conventional velocity. It does work and I don't think a rifle action is in danger but the weak link appears to be the brass.

The very fast pressure spike of the pistol powder causes the primer pocket to expand so the brass only lasts a few loadings before the primers won't stay in.

I was looking for a quieter load and this route works but it has some issues.

As to reduced loads with pistol powders, this you need to be careful with. Use the bulkiest powder available. Jacketed bullets are OK but I'd lube them with moly to ensure they come out the muzzle. Lead bullets are naturally lubed which is why you see cast bullet loads in the manuals.

With some special loading techniques it is possible to safely load subsonic in a case as large as .308. It may be possible to use a bigger case but I haven't experimented with that.
 
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