Where can I get one of those el-cheapo Chinese break barrel air pistols?

[fat tony]

I guess these used to be sold by Princess Auto at one point.

They resemble el - cheapo copies of the Wischo S-20 air pistol, but in size they are more in line with the Weirauch HW-70 (old designation for that model).

Muzzle velocity is around 300 fps on a good day, and they usually come caked with gear oil or some sort of grease, and come in a vaguely triangular cardboard box.

Seems the source has dried up lately, back in the 1990s you used to see them for retail at the usual places.

I just wanted one to play around with, heard they are worth about $10 bucks or so.

Cheers, Tony

Compasseco


like this:

compasseco does not like Canadians so they won't ship here.

 

[.22LRGUY]

Around here, you'd have to check something like Princess Auto or a flea market...that sort of thing. Don't think any of the decent online retailers carry them but then again...I'm not looking.

 

[Skylark 4]

$10 in the 90's equates to $80 now.

Ken

 

[fat tony]

No, compasseco sells them for that now.

 

[camster]

Not seen a 10 dollar pistol springer here... I did recently get a Baikal pistol springer. Love it!

hxxp://scopesandammo.com/storefront/product_info.php/baikalizh-53m-air-pistol-177-caliber-p-337

My 9 year old son can #### it too. Not a heavy hitter, rated at 340fps. Certainly not 10 bucks though.

 

[fat tony]

Very nice, they remind me of the old CZ "Tex" air pistols. The Chinese ones were often branded: "Pioneer" but they went by different designations according to whoever the retailer was at any given time.

 

[camster]

I have a tex model 3 here...

Has never worked properly, and just can't bear to toss it out. Every year I spend a few minutes trying to find out some more info on it. Purchased almost 30 years ago...

 

[fat tony]

Never worked properly? how very odd for something made by CZ.

 

[camster]

Won't #### stay cocked. As soon as you close the action "pop"...
Hard to do too much with, as the assembly is brazed onto the receiver. So in it's box it sits, once or twice a year I look at it with fresh eyes. Get frustrated, and return it to the shelf.

 

[fat tony]

Brazed together? there must be some way of dismantling it, even if it means you have to dissect it for want of a better word.

 

[camster]

Historically I have found the dismantling of things rather easy...it's re assembly that's the fun part!
If it's not considered hijacking, I'll post some pictures...

 

[fat tony]

please do!

 

[camster]

Sorry...welded, not brazed

 

[fat tony]

I of course don't have your gun with me but it looks like you might be able to drive out the pins, and maybe get the trigger & sear out after you remove the end cap, & ease out the mainspring.

Sounds like there is something wrong with the sear/notch.

Nice pistol, looks like the little brother to the early 1970's Winchester spring pistols.

 

[Skylark 4]

Silly question, but have you tried to back off the trigger adjustment screw? It may be set in to far and alowing it to fire as soon as the action is in locked position ? Just by looking at the last pic, it does look in too far.

Ken

 

[camster]

I of course don't have your gun with me but it looks like you might be able to drive out the pins, and maybe get the trigger & sear out after you remove the end cap, & ease out the mainspring.

Sounds like there is something wrong with the sear/notch.

Nice pistol, looks like the little brother to the early 1970's Winchester spring pistols.

Have had the pins out a few times over the years...will try again someday. The more I learn, the more I see.

Silly question, but have you tried to back off the trigger adjustment screw? It may be set in to far and alowing it to fire as soon as the action is in locked position ? Just by looking at the last pic, it does look in too far.

Ken

Not silly at all. The adjustment has been tried in many different positions from all in to all out and 1/4 turn increments between. It still goes off when the action is closed.

Getting back on track, the Baikal I picked up has been huge fun. Apparently Princess Auto have the same model but want 30 bucks more for it.

 

[fat tony]

Princess Auto has the Baikal? I wonder if the Burnside location has any of the Pioneer ones. hmmmm

Just thinking out loud - say if the pin holes locations were mis-aligned when they were originally drilled, if they were 'off' slightly, esp this might not give you enough range of adjustment to keep the gun from going off when you cocked it.

How would you check to see if this was the problem?



You are definitely in the hole wrt time spent on the problem, so what the hey.

***********maybe you could set up a jig to test what the sear geometry is with the piston, and test what the geometry is with the trigger/sear.***************

I am thinking this is probably the only way to find out what the problem is

I still think this is a problem with the piston / sear geometry.

*just a hunch.

 

[Skylark 4]

I would wrap a rubber band tightly around the back end of the sear and the chamber behind the rear sight. This will hold the sear farther up into the piston. Now Very carefully(with pellet loaded) #### the action with the stock removed. As the barrel moves into the forward locked position, ensure the muzzel is pointed in a safe direction. If it does not fire,then your sear is defective. To fire, just hold it real tight and pull trigger and it should go SNAP.
If the sear does hold, LIGHTLY move the trigger back and forth to see how much freeplay is there. This will tell you how much the sear needs to be built up at the trigger end.

Ken

 

[Skylark 4]

Ya know, the more I look at that bottom pic, the more I think Tony is right. The hole's for the sear pin should be 2 to 3 mm higher. It looks like the sear may be only catching the piston by a few thousand's of an inch. Should be 1/8th inch or more. If the rubber band trick works, I know the "fix" needed.

Ken

 

[fat tony]

Hmmm. I don't know what the sear/notch looks like but i would imagine it has a certain depth. You could remove the piston & eyeball how much the sear intrudes into the cylinder.

Then you could eyeball the sear notch (if it has one) and that should give you an idea how far off you are.