Where do I start? .. Winchester 1897

czechitout

czechitout

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Hi gents!

I have done a bit of research on the 1897, but it seems that there are a few model types that were produced. I want to purchase an original 1897 model with the 20" barrel, but am unsure what I should be looking for (takedown, solid frame). I know the original trench model (M-97) is out of my price range and scarce. I have been told that many 1897's have been chopped to resemble the "riot" model. I want a usable shooter, not a wall hanger or collectable. What model should I be looking for and what are the common issues I need to be aware of?

If you can send me in the right direction regarding resource info .. I am willing to do the looking myself.

thanks!

:D
 
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They were built up into the 1950s, so the typical duck gun is somewhat common if you're looking to make a repro. That's all I know.
 
Thanks Grouse man .. I wasn't going to do a repro, but that is probably a better idea than looking for the riot model. I am assuming that I should be able to find one at the Calgary show next week.


:D
 
Hi czechitout,

The 1897 riot configuration seems (to me at least) to be one of the more difficult models to find. Partially because it isn't as common as field models and partly because it appeals to a wide variety of enthusiasts such as military collectors, LEO collectors, zombie hunters, 1897 collectors in general, anybody into tactical shotguns, etc...

If you're fortunate enough to find a genuine specimen in decent shape, you'll find that this is another model that can be a bit pricey (depending on condition, of course). I have an 1897 riot model that I purchased last spring for $600. That's a pretty healthy price for an 1897. Mine's in very good condition and comes with verified provenance - it was in service with the British Columbia Police (before they were taken over by the RCMP).

I'm not 100% sure what ALL the indicators of authenticity are for the riot model, but I know that they were fitted at the factory with a checkered steel butt plate. If you are offered one with a bakelite butt plate, or any other material, buy it if you like, but don't pay the price you'd be willing to pay for an authentic piece. Lack of a bead on the barrel is also an indication that it was a field model that has had the barrel chopped.

I'm heading out for dinner in a few minutes, but I'll try to get a couple of pics of mine up on this thread before I leave. If I don't quite get it done, I'll finish the job tomorrow.

SS
 
These aren't the best images (had to rush a bit), but you can see the shape of the authentic stock that you should expect and what the butt plate looks like. BTW, you're not far off by looking at the Calgary Gun Show - that's where I found mine.:D

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If I had my choice, I would pay the premium for a solid frame model as they will never shoot loose. The takedown models are adjustable for wear but once the adjuster is maxxed out it time to look for a "long draw" adjuster and they can be hard to locate. Beware of any brazing on a takedown gun where the mag tube goes into the receiver - this is bubba's cure for a bagged out adjuster (I've seen a few kicking around at gun shows).
 
thanks Straightshooter! .. just what I wanted to see! Hopefully I can find something in Calgary this weekend. I bought a Nork 1897 to shoot and have fun with, but would love to have an original as well. Seems like the riot model may be tough to find, but I am gonna wait it out. Seems like every time I get impatient, I buy something I really don't want and miss out on what I wanted to begin with!

If anyone else has pics of an original riot or trench model .. please post them!


:D
 
ckid said:
If I had my choice, I would pay the premium for a solid frame model as they will never shoot loose. The takedown models are adjustable for wear but once the adjuster is maxxed out it time to look for a "long draw" adjuster and they can be hard to locate. Beware of any brazing on a takedown gun where the mag tube goes into the receiver - this is bubba's cure for a bagged out adjuster (I've seen a few kicking around at gun shows).
Click to expand...

My experience has been different. I've never had trouble finding offset adjustment sleeves for the 1897. I've purchased several over the years. Some folks might not know this, but there are a total of 5 additional sleeves available - each offset a bit more than the last. The first offset sleeve, that you'd purchase once the original sleeve has reached the end of it's adjustment, is the #2. I've got 2 number 2's and 2 number 3's in my gun room for future contingencies. The truth is, I don't expect to ever need them in my lifetime. One of my 1897's has been in my family for 3 generations and only reached the stage of needing an offset sleeve after 95 years of use. The #2 that I put in it should last at least another 80 - 90 years (actually much longer, because I have too many 1897's to shoot any one of them as often as my granddad or my dad did).

I have more than one takedown 1897 and more than one solid frame. I don't see any disadvantage to the takedowns. In fact, they're much easier to clean and they'll fit in a nice leather case, a mutton case, or any other short style of case.

I agree with your warning about brazing - that's bound to be a garage gunsmithing job.
 
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