Where to buy 5/8-24 barrel threading kit?

When I read your post, I thought "a lathe".
Then I did a google and found carolinashooterssupply.com. They sell a kit with a die, die stock, guide that fits the bore and thread cutting lubricant. Seventy odd US$.
I expect the barrel would have to be the appropriate diameter.
No idea if this rig would do a precise job.
I think a lathe would be best.
 
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Use an annular cutter with a bore specific pilot and then a threading die guide that starts the die square and centered on the bore. I see no reason why this method wouldn't work as well as machining on a lathe.
The dies are available on Amazon and Aliexpress for cheap. The annular cutter will run in the $30-45 range and the pilots can found for $10-20 each. For a one off it is fairly expensive, spread the cost over 10 and it becomes quite economical.
 
When I install a brake, I run the barrel through the headstock, four jaw chuck at the muzzle, a spider at the other end. On the muzzle, I use a dowel pin in the bore, so that I indicate the bore axis with the spindle access. I then turn the diameter, and cut the threads with a single point tool, and crown the muzzle while the barrel is set up in the lathe. The threads are cut to fit the actual brake being installed. The brake is threaded onto the barrel, and it is bored to give the desired clearance. The bore of the brake and the bore of the rifle are exactly co-axial.
I don't know that an annular cutter and hand turned die could produce the same results. The brake would not be bored to be co-axial.
No doubt a brake could be installed. I am just skeptical that the same degree of precision could be obtained.
 
When I install a brake, I run the barrel through the headstock, four jaw chuck at the muzzle, a spider at the other end. On the muzzle, I use a dowel pin in the bore, so that I indicate the bore axis with the spindle access. I then turn the diameter, and cut the threads with a single point tool, and crown the muzzle while the barrel is set up in the lathe. The threads are cut to fit the actual brake being installed. The brake is threaded onto the barrel, and it is bored to give the desired clearance. The bore of the brake and the bore of the rifle are exactly co-axial.
I don't know that an annular cutter and hand turned die could produce the same results. The brake would not be bored to be co-axial.
No doubt a brake could be installed. I am just skeptical that the same degree of precision could be obtained.


That is pretty much what I do except a few variants when dialing.

I don’t know why you would spend all that money on tooling and possibly end up with a questionable muzzle brake install. Most gunsmith will charge less than the tooling to thread and time a muzzle brake, and guarantee bore/brake alignment.
 
When I install a brake, I run the barrel through the headstock, four jaw chuck at the muzzle, a spider at the other end. On the muzzle, I use a dowel pin in the bore, so that I indicate the bore axis with the spindle access. I then turn the diameter, and cut the threads with a single point tool, and crown the muzzle while the barrel is set up in the lathe. The threads are cut to fit the actual brake being installed. The brake is threaded onto the barrel, and it is bored to give the desired clearance. The bore of the brake and the bore of the rifle are exactly co-axial.
I don't know that an annular cutter and hand turned die could produce the same results. The brake would not be bored to be co-axial.
No doubt a brake could be installed. I am just skeptical that the same degree of precision could be obtained.

I do this same procedure... and being the threads are cut to fit the actual brake being installed and boring the brake concentrically makes it more precise than cutting the threads to a standard with a die. (It will usually cut a considerably loose fit)
 
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