Where to buy crowning tool in Canada
- Thread starter tommy88
- Start date
I've heard a large brass screw and valve lapping compound will get the job done.
Otherwise Brownells has some crowning tools.
https://youtu.be/qoSI_O3Oc3w
Otherwise Brownells has some crowning tools.
https://youtu.be/qoSI_O3Oc3w
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Probably not in fashion, but I shortened down two rifle barrels in my younger days - cut off with hacksaw, then used a file and filed muzzle end square to bore - that is not necessarily square to the outside of barrel, since barrel tapers. Both seemed to still work nicely after 35 years - at least last time I fired them??? The 243 had many 3 and 5 shot groups at 100 yards, under 1", with that "square crown", so decent accuracy is possible. I have used brass screw and valve grinding compound, and also bought the Brownells kit. Not completely certain last two do anymore more, than for "looks". Certainly on 22 rimfire, look to find a nice balanced "star" on the muzzle to show even release and venting of powder gas - not certain I have seen that on centerfires. Nice thing about trying by hand with a file - doesn't cost anything if you own a fine cut file, and if you can't get it, you are still able to use other methods, including finding someone with a lathe.
Just logged in at Brownells to see... They start at around 150US for a square crown and 390 for a manual 11 degree tool.. Probably the sort of thing you want to take to a gunsmith if you don't have machining skills/tools.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Kind of between rock and hard place - if you insist to do by yourself. The Brownell hand tool kits will do fine looking finish jobs, especially if you can get pilots that fit smoothly and snugly on the rifling, and follow the user instructions. Dead certain that you are concentric - no guarantee that the bore hole is dead centre within the barrel - so some crowns look good - concentric with barrel, but are not square at the actual muzzle. So setting up in lathe and indicating on the outside of barrel may not actually get you there either - want to be indicating off the bore. Key issue seems to be perfect, even release at end of barrel, then some thought about what exiting gases will do while bullet still in vicinity - apparently where that 11 degree crown idea came from. If you hand file square, and shoot - redo if not going well, get to point where can not get it "squarer" - I was not able to improve after that in my hunting rifle - a Remington 788 in 243 Win that I was bedding at the same time - gets to a point where changes do not improve results. Maybe a higher end target or bench rest rifle shows a difference, but do not think a production rifle will?
An acquaintance, using my Brownells kit, had a pilot made for a rifle he was building - pilot fit snugly with lots of cutting oil in play - started with 11 degree cutter and discovered existing original muzzle was neither concentric nor round - was oblong (!), then finished with very fine touch of 45 degree cutter trying to just get the tips of the rifling. Rifle shoots very well now, so we know the system works!
An acquaintance, using my Brownells kit, had a pilot made for a rifle he was building - pilot fit snugly with lots of cutting oil in play - started with 11 degree cutter and discovered existing original muzzle was neither concentric nor round - was oblong (!), then finished with very fine touch of 45 degree cutter trying to just get the tips of the rifling. Rifle shoots very well now, so we know the system works!
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I bought the complete Brownells set years ago, before the price went through the roof. It does work, and can produce an effective and attractive crown.
Usually though, I cut crowns on my lathe, because I have one.
If I were to buy just one Brownells cutter, I would get the 45 degree tool, and the appropriate pilot. Poke a patch into the bore to keep metal cuttings out. Carefully saw the barrel. File it as square as you can. Use the piloted 45 degree cutter. You will be easily able to see the chamfering of the bore and rifling. Dress the muzzle if it isn't square - easy to see after using the cutter. Break the edge of the circumference of the muzzle. Touch up the bluing. Poke out the patch. Don't forget that step. Not a good idea to fire a round with an obstruction in the bore.
The round head brass screw with grinding compound can do a similar job. I think the piloted cutter is better, and is not dependent on the cutter riding the bore's edge, like the brass lap is.
Usually though, I cut crowns on my lathe, because I have one.
If I were to buy just one Brownells cutter, I would get the 45 degree tool, and the appropriate pilot. Poke a patch into the bore to keep metal cuttings out. Carefully saw the barrel. File it as square as you can. Use the piloted 45 degree cutter. You will be easily able to see the chamfering of the bore and rifling. Dress the muzzle if it isn't square - easy to see after using the cutter. Break the edge of the circumference of the muzzle. Touch up the bluing. Poke out the patch. Don't forget that step. Not a good idea to fire a round with an obstruction in the bore.
The round head brass screw with grinding compound can do a similar job. I think the piloted cutter is better, and is not dependent on the cutter riding the bore's edge, like the brass lap is.
There are various combinations of countersinks, counterbore cutters, and pilots that can be got, for various 'other' designated uses, any of which is a good candidate for a home gamer type.
One example that is pretty easy to find, are the carbide ball or cone cutters used on air die grinders. In the case of a ball type cutter, the larger diameter you use, the shallower the angle of the finished 'ring' around the rifle bore.
Getting your hands on a copy of the KBC Tools catalog and thumbing through it will find others.
Then add to those, that most machine tool supply outfits either can order in, or have a list of contacts that they use, to have custom ground tooling done, and some of that can be affordable. Or you modify a single lip countersink to the angle you wish, for example.
One example that is pretty easy to find, are the carbide ball or cone cutters used on air die grinders. In the case of a ball type cutter, the larger diameter you use, the shallower the angle of the finished 'ring' around the rifle bore.
Getting your hands on a copy of the KBC Tools catalog and thumbing through it will find others.
Then add to those, that most machine tool supply outfits either can order in, or have a list of contacts that they use, to have custom ground tooling done, and some of that can be affordable. Or you modify a single lip countersink to the angle you wish, for example.
There are various combinations of countersinks, counterbore cutters, and pilots that can be got, for various 'other' designated uses, any of which is a good candidate for a home gamer type.
One example that is pretty easy to find, are the carbide ball or cone cutters used on air die grinders. In the case of a ball type cutter, the larger diameter you use, the shallower the angle of the finished 'ring' around the rifle bore.
Getting your hands on a copy of the KBC Tools catalog and thumbing through it will find others.
Then add to those, that most machine tool supply outfits either can order in, or have a list of contacts that they use, to have custom ground tooling done, and some of that can be affordable. Or you modify a single lip countersink to the angle you wish, for example.
One example that is pretty easy to find, are the carbide ball or cone cutters used on air die grinders. In the case of a ball type cutter, the larger diameter you use, the shallower the angle of the finished 'ring' around the rifle bore.
Getting your hands on a copy of the KBC Tools catalog and thumbing through it will find others.
Then add to those, that most machine tool supply outfits either can order in, or have a list of contacts that they use, to have custom ground tooling done, and some of that can be affordable. Or you modify a single lip countersink to the angle you wish, for example.
I picked up a Dave Manson military rifle muzzle recrowning kit from Big Horn Sales a couple years ago. It was around $200 with .22 and .30 pilots. Works very well. Probably a bit more now. Uses a cordless screwdriver or drill on very low speed.
