Where to find M14 adjustable Cheek Piece
- Thread starter tucker05
- Start date
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
cheek rest
I built one for a DCRA target rifle. Except for avoiding the butt trap holes in a milsurp stock, the technique is the same.
- Drill two VERTICAL holes in the stock, stop before coming out the bottom. My rods were 3/8" aluminum. I made a some sort of cradle big enough to support the heavy end and that would fit on the drill press table.
- Bandsaw off the top 1 - 1 1/2 inches of the comb. I cut HORIZONTALLY, then took another slice off at 45 degrees. I wanted to not rest my face on an edge, but you could cut once on an angle. I must have used a similar cradle, but I forget.
- Drill two larger diameter holes on the exposed flat face of the butt, centered on the existing holes. Mine were about 1" diameter, because I had some 1" aluminum bar stock.
- Epoxy glue the bar stock into the holes. Make the top flush and pretty. When cured tape the cut off comb onto the stock.
- Drill down through the same holes to make holes in the bar stock.
- Epoxy the rods in place in the comb. Mask the bar stock to avoid leakages.
Use the butt and the bar stock as a jig to guarantee compatibility.
- Rebuild your comb. I used epoxy and fibreglas fabric for strength. You might do this simulataniously or separately. I did it in two steps for control.
- Drill and tap for two thumb screws on the offside, through the wood and one side of the bar stock.
For a while I kept some sandpaper and soap in case the cheekrest tried to bind, but it was an easy job after a summer of matches.
I made up a bunch of veneer plywood spacers with holes for the rods, because I found the thumb screws would slip unexpectedly. Experiment with the height for comfort and then keep that many shims in your shooting box.
I built one for a DCRA target rifle. Except for avoiding the butt trap holes in a milsurp stock, the technique is the same.
- Drill two VERTICAL holes in the stock, stop before coming out the bottom. My rods were 3/8" aluminum. I made a some sort of cradle big enough to support the heavy end and that would fit on the drill press table.
- Bandsaw off the top 1 - 1 1/2 inches of the comb. I cut HORIZONTALLY, then took another slice off at 45 degrees. I wanted to not rest my face on an edge, but you could cut once on an angle. I must have used a similar cradle, but I forget.
- Drill two larger diameter holes on the exposed flat face of the butt, centered on the existing holes. Mine were about 1" diameter, because I had some 1" aluminum bar stock.
- Epoxy glue the bar stock into the holes. Make the top flush and pretty. When cured tape the cut off comb onto the stock.
- Drill down through the same holes to make holes in the bar stock.
- Epoxy the rods in place in the comb. Mask the bar stock to avoid leakages.
Use the butt and the bar stock as a jig to guarantee compatibility.
- Rebuild your comb. I used epoxy and fibreglas fabric for strength. You might do this simulataniously or separately. I did it in two steps for control.
- Drill and tap for two thumb screws on the offside, through the wood and one side of the bar stock.
For a while I kept some sandpaper and soap in case the cheekrest tried to bind, but it was an easy job after a summer of matches.
I made up a bunch of veneer plywood spacers with holes for the rods, because I found the thumb screws would slip unexpectedly. Experiment with the height for comfort and then keep that many shims in your shooting box.
- Location
- Ontario defense force (ODF HQ)
I'll second rooster33' stuff it's all top shelf kit!
The Rooster cheekpiece is secured with a pair of fasteners, with Allen socket heads. I bought some similar items from the Lee Valley Hardware Catalogue, and set it up with finger knobs on the right side, so the comb can be adjusted without tools. Makes a good product even better.
- Location
- Ontario defense force (ODF HQ)
ert said:
What other options would you want in a CR?
