This mystifies me. I have used Lee 6 cavity moulds for several years and cast 1000's & 1000's of bullets and never had a sprue cam lever break. In fact the only time I have even encountered a reasonable amount of resistance is when I have done a pour and the mould was not up to operating temperature (alloy cooled quicker and was therefore harder). The solution is simple; make sure the mould is sufficiently preheated before you start to pour. I believe Lee recommends you dip a corner of the mould in the melt for 15 seconds but that is for a 2 cavity mould. Being much bigger a 6 cavity mould takes longer to preheat so I keep it in for a least a minute, sometimes 2. Another method is to do a couple of pours in the first two cavities so you only have to cut two sprues which gives minimal resistance to the sprue cutter. Then step up to a couple of pours in the first 4 cavities. Finish up by doing a couple of pours in all 6 cavities. By the time you get to the final stage the mould will be sufficiently heated that the sprues will be soft when you cut them off with less resultant stress on the sprue cam lever. If you try to cut the sprues off and encounter exceptional resistance the reason is that the alloy is not hot enough. Brute force and bullet moulds are not a good combination if you're looking for long mould life expectancy.I do have some practical advice for you since you're planning to use the 6-cavity mould. From my experience with 6-cavity moulds I use for buckshot, the handle on the sprue cutter is made of some sintered powder metal, and mine broke within 3 or 4 sessions. I replaced the broken handle on my #4 and #00 with the sprue cutter cam lever from KAL Tool & Die and it's a seriously worthwhile upgrade for you to consider, since you need to buy the mould block handles separately anyway. Made in Canada, too!