Who sells reamers in Canada?

MadDog

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I need to get a 284 Winchester reamer and I'd rather get it here in Canada, who sells them?

Apparently my 99C needs to be rechambered due to a minor headspace issue.
 
Gunsmithing

The model 99F does it have a short chamber (cartridges won't seat all the way in) or is it long deep chambered (too much space between the face of the bolt and the head of the cartridge) HVH Enterprises, P.O. BOX 213 - RPO South St. Vital, Winnipeg, Man. R2N 3X9, May be able to help you with getting the reamers you require.
 
The 99F is the one I'm selling, it's a rotary mag 308 and is fine.

The 99C is in 284 and is mag fed but the primers are flattening and my smith says it's probably been that way since it left the factory, the 284's, 243's and 22-250's were well known 99s that had head space issues.

Thanks for the tip on where to find the reamer.
 
Headspace in 284

Maddog: Did the gunsmith actually check it with a headspace quage? Flattened primers in a 99/284 don't surprise me as that is a pretty high pressure load. Protruding primers or primer flow around the firing pin would be a better indicator I think.

At any rate without changing the chamber you could load some moderate loads so the bullet is in contact with the lands and thus holding the case tight to the bolt face. Fireform and dont set the shoulder back when you resize and you should be set to go.
 
I've only fired it 4 times, on every shot the bolt came loose and the lever actually opened a hair, my smith checked the lock up and it was fine.

After every shot the brass stuck in the chamber and I had to reallty reaf on the lever to get it out. I took the four shells fired and the rest of the box with me when I went over to my smiths and he fiddles around a bit when I was there, he said the same thing you did, lighten the load and it should be o.k. but I don't want o.k. I want to have some faith in it. Both my smith and another smith from the states said that the 284 99C's were famous for leaving the factory this way and can be fixed by meerly redoing the chamber and taking out a thread. Unfortunately I'll have to bring the forearm back a hair as well so it'll meet up with the thread for the forearm bolt.
 
MadDog said:
I've only fired it 4 times, on every shot the bolt came loose and the lever actually opened a hair, my smith checked the lock up and it was fine.

After every shot the brass stuck in the chamber and I had to reallty reaf on the lever to get it out. I took the four shells fired and the rest of the box with me when I went over to my smiths and he fiddles around a bit when I was there, he said the same thing you did, lighten the load and it should be o.k. but I don't want o.k. I want to have some faith in it. Both my smith and another smith from the states said that the 284 99C's were famous for leaving the factory this way and can be fixed by meerly redoing the chamber and taking out a thread. Unfortunately I'll have to bring the forearm back a hair as well so it'll meet up with the thread for the forearm bolt.

Stuck fired cases are not usually a headspace problem.

Why do you think you have a headspace issue? If you are loading for it you may be creating headspace with your loaded round. Have you actually checked it with a steel go gauge......

For a very tight chamber you should be able to feel the lever closing on a bare go gauge.

It is still a good acceptable minimum chamber if you can feel the lever closing on a go gauge with one piece of masking tape on the bolt face.

If it is factory ammo that is sticking in the chamber due to pressure, then the throat may need to be lengthened.

.
 
I feel that anytime any rifle 'opens' up upon firing, there is a serious problem with its lock up. Rifles are not designed to do that, maybe some blowback semi's but that is another story.

I assume that you had the lever held shut when you fired the rifle. If the bolt moves at all, you have a serious issue with lockup. There is no way to check for proper lock up without stripping the rifle apart and measuring the tolerances. looking into the action and moving it a few times tells you nothing.

If you are using ammo loaded to within SAAMI specs, consider having the chamber polished. Older rifles can have rough spots due to rust or corrosion. Are there any marks or rought spots on the brass after extraction? Any shiney spots or streaks on the case body? But only after you have ensured lock up is to specs.

At the range, load and unload a cartridge (preferably factory). Any problems with a stiff closing or opening? If it works well when the shell is not fired, then I would look at the mechanicals and chamber. Chambers are designed to not 'lock' brass. Anytime there is stiff extraction, look for solutions.

mark the nose of the bullet with a jiffy marker all the way down to the case neck. Chamber and extract. Any shiney marks on the bullet? odds are there are no land marks indicating no issue with the throat length.

Jerry
 
Never thought of even looking at that Buckbrush, good idea.

Here's what I got so far if you guys need a visual.

HPIM0100.JPG


HPIM0101.JPG


HPIM0102.JPG
 
Headspace

MadDog: Nothing in those case pictures jumps out and says headspace issue to my eye although that doesn't mean it isn't so. I do see sign of enough pressure that the relatively weak extraction power of a 99 possibly can't deal with it. Also , the pressure ring on the case appears somewhat out of the norm in that it looks like it may have a double ring each a short ways apart as if the chamber were ringed slightly causing a band on the case. That may just be the way it looks in the picture. I also wonder what caused those little dents or galls on the pressure ring. Something stuck in the chamber possibly which imbeds itself in the brass? Maybe GunTech will also eyeball your pictures and venture his thoughts.
 
The jiffy marker goes on the bullet not the case. Paint the bullet to the top of the neck and chamber. If the throat is too short, there will be small marks on the ink indicating the lands are touching the bullet.

I doubt there will be any.

From that third pic, my suggestion is that you have a rough chamber. Polishing that up could help IF the defect is not too deep. Anything proud in the chamber is easily removed. Divots are not so easy to deal with.

Jerry
 
The last picture with what appear to be small "lumps" protruding from the rear portion of the brass may indicate pits in the chamber... that could cause hard extraction.

Take a new case and polish the rear portion of it with 400 grit wet/dry paper and then 600 grit.. make it look as good as possible without any blemishes and then fire it in your chamber and inspect it for fresh "flaws"

I think you may have done all you can over the internet....... you are going to have to get more "hands on" advice I think.
 
Thanks for all the help guys, I'll get the bore polished and start loading alot lighter than factory specs. Hopefully I'll be knocking down a buck with it this year.
 
MadDog said:
........ and start loading alot lighter than factory specs.

This is the first you have said that handloads may have been used. I had assumed the problem was with factory ammo.....

If these were handloads the answer is very simple - your load was too hot for that rifle. Always start less than maximum book loads and don't substitute any of the components..... every rifle can be different.
 
The four shots taken out of the gun were factory loads Guntech, my smith said I should try loading some of my own up and go alittle lighter cause it looked like the factory stuff was to hot.
 
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