I'm looking at the 5" and wondering how it would be for PPC. Are they worth the $1500 price tag or is there a good PPC revolver for less that I should check out. I'm not looking at setting the world on fire, just having some fun.
Mike
Mike
Who shoots S&W 627?
- Thread starter BC Mike
- Start date
If you have knowledge of a good pistolsmith in your area that is accustom to building PPC guns then take a look at the S&W 586 or 686 for it has the K frame grip most of us PPC people prefer. If in B.C., then I would say Murray Charlton at Brentwood Bay B.C., or Josef Dlask in Delta B.C.
Murray Charlton is 604 652=5266 of Fax 6 04 652-4700. Murray built my PPC revolver way back in '78 I think.
Josef Dlask try www.dlask.com or ph 604 527-9942 or fax 604 527-9982. I will be sending him one of several of my revolvers, one in full house PPC form for some work on them & he has built two of my 45ACP Browning action semi-autos. Lovely workmanship with the use of cnn machinery.
Sorry for no knowledge on the S&W 627 as I am a bit old in age---like 76+ yrs old.
Murray Charlton is 604 652=5266 of Fax 6 04 652-4700. Murray built my PPC revolver way back in '78 I think.
Josef Dlask try www.dlask.com or ph 604 527-9942 or fax 604 527-9982. I will be sending him one of several of my revolvers, one in full house PPC form for some work on them & he has built two of my 45ACP Browning action semi-autos. Lovely workmanship with the use of cnn machinery.
Sorry for no knowledge on the S&W 627 as I am a bit old in age---like 76+ yrs old.
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A friend has one and I've shot it many times. It's nice enough but even with the Wolff spring kit it wasn't nearly as smooth as my K-frame S&W or his N-frame Model 27.
For the price of a 627 I think you'd be better off having a PPC revolver built to your specificatations or seaching the used market. PPC guns while shot a lot are generally fed very light wadcutters and can handle an enourmous quantity of rounds and still shoot very well.
For the price of a 627 I think you'd be better off having a PPC revolver built to your specificatations or seaching the used market. PPC guns while shot a lot are generally fed very light wadcutters and can handle an enourmous quantity of rounds and still shoot very well.
Yes most of us like the smaller K frame grip of the K or L frame guns. Also in speed-loaders to my knowledge they only carry six rounds.
Best to attend some PPC shooting to practicing & note what they use. Like my original holster was a normal draw up & out with 2.5" Tex Shoemaker Sam Browne though later on again from Tex Shoemaker was a push down & out to bring the gun into action.
I went through a lot of speed-loaders to end up with Safairland II though I think a lot were shifting over to the spring loaded Safairland III. I have had DADE, HKS & a few other makes though liked the Safairland but times have changed.
What I like at an indoor range with B-34 humanoid targets, rather then the large B-27 for 50 yds, I could set it up to three different distances from the target to shoot from along with kneel to other stances & at the end we would have 2 out of 50 rnds left over. So empty gun in the holster & the two rounds left over to reload & shoot at the "little guy" in the upper left from a closer position. So much can be done to make the shooting fun & a challenge.
Yes our loads were light, but not all had HBWC or even double-end WC, but so much easier to obtain 150 gr SWC & still shoot well & in several cases I used 162 Gr SWC.
Some chaps would load light loads in their 45ACP semi-autos & still shoot as the challenge was there & especially when shooting from 50 yds which helped them as basically IPSC shooters.
Those with 2" snubbies shot from closer distance & no more the 25 yds. So there is a lot to PPC shooting.
Lastly you might be able to contact Canadian Police Combat Assoc., on the net. Though last address I had was way back in ''94 for thier Rule Book being CPCA, Box 1397, Regina Sask, S4P 3C2. Obviously been some yrs since I belonged or shot PPC.
Best to attend some PPC shooting to practicing & note what they use. Like my original holster was a normal draw up & out with 2.5" Tex Shoemaker Sam Browne though later on again from Tex Shoemaker was a push down & out to bring the gun into action.
I went through a lot of speed-loaders to end up with Safairland II though I think a lot were shifting over to the spring loaded Safairland III. I have had DADE, HKS & a few other makes though liked the Safairland but times have changed.
What I like at an indoor range with B-34 humanoid targets, rather then the large B-27 for 50 yds, I could set it up to three different distances from the target to shoot from along with kneel to other stances & at the end we would have 2 out of 50 rnds left over. So empty gun in the holster & the two rounds left over to reload & shoot at the "little guy" in the upper left from a closer position. So much can be done to make the shooting fun & a challenge.
Yes our loads were light, but not all had HBWC or even double-end WC, but so much easier to obtain 150 gr SWC & still shoot well & in several cases I used 162 Gr SWC.
Some chaps would load light loads in their 45ACP semi-autos & still shoot as the challenge was there & especially when shooting from 50 yds which helped them as basically IPSC shooters.
Those with 2" snubbies shot from closer distance & no more the 25 yds. So there is a lot to PPC shooting.
Lastly you might be able to contact Canadian Police Combat Assoc., on the net. Though last address I had was way back in ''94 for thier Rule Book being CPCA, Box 1397, Regina Sask, S4P 3C2. Obviously been some yrs since I belonged or shot PPC.
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Great advice so far...
I'm finding as I research more that there is a lot to be said for the S&W 686 - 6 shooter. Maybe with the extra few hundred I would save over the 627 I could have the trigger pull lightened up. What else would you guys recommend having done to turn a stock 686 into an ok PPC gun?
Mike
I'm finding as I research more that there is a lot to be said for the S&W 686 - 6 shooter. Maybe with the extra few hundred I would save over the 627 I could have the trigger pull lightened up. What else would you guys recommend having done to turn a stock 686 into an ok PPC gun?
Mike
I don't like the idea of modifying a gun to win an arcane "game".BC Mike said:
A "stock" 686 might prohibit you from winnig a PPC match, but if you continued to practice and use the "stock" 686, you would gain the skills necessary to "win", the real life scenerios. Obviously if an intruder was in your house you would much rather be armed with a stock 686 than with a PPC gun, "real", loads rather than PPC loads would also be nice! I think all the "games" are much more interesting with "real" guns, and "real" loads.
Well shave away a bit of the bottom part of the cyinder release so speed-loaders are not partially blocked. Hone the cylinder holes a bit for the rounds will go in with ease.
Get rid of the ramp front blade for a stright blade & you might widen the rear sight a bit so that the front blade will stand out like a sore thumb but do not overdo the latter.
Stipple, knurrel or checker the back strap on the gun. Get of set of Hogue 'Monogrips' in the stippled NYLON & NOT the rubber for when drawing the gun, into shooting position, you do not want a sticky gun in your hand.
If someone sets a decent trigger pull for you then you might have the trigger also polished rather then grooved & an Allen screw in it to eliminate any slack at the end of the shot.
If the gun fits your properly you should be able to pull the trigger to where the finger is just about to hit the frame. So much will depend upon length of your fingers. I must have an extra-large glove to fit properly so the above is easy for me.
That is about it. Some may say have the cylinders numbered but that is not necessary. Even in practice try out every LIGHT load you have churned out--give them all a wipe with a cloth at the top of the brass & where the rolled crimp was done. So you will know they drop in with ease & you are not wasting the limited time of seating one or two that stuck up a hair. Also in reloads ONLY use only Federal primers & seat them deeply preferable in Winchester brass as it is the most shallow of the brass avaliable.
As HBWC are not that easy to obtain I would go for 150 gr cast SWC & keep your load below lowest grains of powder like in Winchester 231 3.4 gr is as large a load as you want & same with Unique something like 3.2 gr or in HP-38 then 3.4 gr will be plenty. You can experiment & try out even lighter loads is above powder or in the powders you have.
Get rid of the ramp front blade for a stright blade & you might widen the rear sight a bit so that the front blade will stand out like a sore thumb but do not overdo the latter.
Stipple, knurrel or checker the back strap on the gun. Get of set of Hogue 'Monogrips' in the stippled NYLON & NOT the rubber for when drawing the gun, into shooting position, you do not want a sticky gun in your hand.
If someone sets a decent trigger pull for you then you might have the trigger also polished rather then grooved & an Allen screw in it to eliminate any slack at the end of the shot.
If the gun fits your properly you should be able to pull the trigger to where the finger is just about to hit the frame. So much will depend upon length of your fingers. I must have an extra-large glove to fit properly so the above is easy for me.
That is about it. Some may say have the cylinders numbered but that is not necessary. Even in practice try out every LIGHT load you have churned out--give them all a wipe with a cloth at the top of the brass & where the rolled crimp was done. So you will know they drop in with ease & you are not wasting the limited time of seating one or two that stuck up a hair. Also in reloads ONLY use only Federal primers & seat them deeply preferable in Winchester brass as it is the most shallow of the brass avaliable.
As HBWC are not that easy to obtain I would go for 150 gr cast SWC & keep your load below lowest grains of powder like in Winchester 231 3.4 gr is as large a load as you want & same with Unique something like 3.2 gr or in HP-38 then 3.4 gr will be plenty. You can experiment & try out even lighter loads is above powder or in the powders you have.
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