Who uses a bench block to work on guns? What kind do you reccomend?
- Thread starter albayo
- Start date
I'd suggest that this is one of those "it depends" answers. There's often a need to support a gun or part of a gun while knocking out a pin. But each gun and gun part is so unique that I can't see any one product being the answer to all the needs.
Then there's the idea that a bench block is used at different stages and different reasons. So multiple blocks in a variety of materials is likely going to be needed.
Because there's so many options and so little commonality I'd suggest that picking up a few hockey pucks from Pneu Cambodian and keeping a few blocks of scrap maple around is likely going to do as well as anything. The pucks or wood scraps are then cut or drilled as needed to support the job of the moment. When done it's put away for the next time you work on that gun. Are they something you can own with pride in your tool'ism? Certainly not. But they'll do the job you want to do.
Along the same line I also keep a variety of patches of heavy leather to use in the vise for holding parts of guns without marring anything. The leather quicly becomes grotty looking but it's effective as long as I avoid letting filing dust or other metal particles come into contact with the leather. And if it does? Well another swatch of belt thickness veggie tanned leather is cheap enough.
For drilling out a puck so it has a hole to receive a pin being pushed out look at information on adapting a drill bit for drilling brass and plastic. The negative rake you shape on the drill avoids the puck plastic from biting in and sucking the drill inwards. So the holes are a lot smoother.
Or are you looking for a steel bench block?
Then there's the idea that a bench block is used at different stages and different reasons. So multiple blocks in a variety of materials is likely going to be needed.
Because there's so many options and so little commonality I'd suggest that picking up a few hockey pucks from Pneu Cambodian and keeping a few blocks of scrap maple around is likely going to do as well as anything. The pucks or wood scraps are then cut or drilled as needed to support the job of the moment. When done it's put away for the next time you work on that gun. Are they something you can own with pride in your tool'ism? Certainly not. But they'll do the job you want to do.
Along the same line I also keep a variety of patches of heavy leather to use in the vise for holding parts of guns without marring anything. The leather quicly becomes grotty looking but it's effective as long as I avoid letting filing dust or other metal particles come into contact with the leather. And if it does? Well another swatch of belt thickness veggie tanned leather is cheap enough.
For drilling out a puck so it has a hole to receive a pin being pushed out look at information on adapting a drill bit for drilling brass and plastic. The negative rake you shape on the drill avoids the puck plastic from biting in and sucking the drill inwards. So the holes are a lot smoother.
Or are you looking for a steel bench block?
Like mentioned, it really depends on your needs. I have several different styles of bench blocks. The most useful for me is a 50 pound lead block about 6inches square and 9inches long.
The hockey pucks are ok but to mobile. I have one inlet into a piece of Delrin that can be clamped in the 8inch vice. I also have a 4inch vice with brass jaws and a 1inch vice from Princess Auto with hard rubber jaws. The small bits seem to be the easiest to mark up or damage. All of the vices have aluminum slip over jaws as well.
I like bench blocks to be SECURE. If they can move, they will and at the worst possible moment.
My workbench has a 5/16inch flat steel top over 3inch thick boards that are glued to the bottom of the table and held in place with metal bars. The bench itself is one of the most versatile and useful blocks you can have. Again I will stress the more secure the better.
I also have a 50 weight anvil for forming parts and straightening parts that can be heated.
It really depends on your needs. The best tools you can afford for the intended purpose are what you need. Often poorly made or thought out tools do more damage than good.
The hockey pucks are ok but to mobile. I have one inlet into a piece of Delrin that can be clamped in the 8inch vice. I also have a 4inch vice with brass jaws and a 1inch vice from Princess Auto with hard rubber jaws. The small bits seem to be the easiest to mark up or damage. All of the vices have aluminum slip over jaws as well.
I like bench blocks to be SECURE. If they can move, they will and at the worst possible moment.
My workbench has a 5/16inch flat steel top over 3inch thick boards that are glued to the bottom of the table and held in place with metal bars. The bench itself is one of the most versatile and useful blocks you can have. Again I will stress the more secure the better.
I also have a 50 weight anvil for forming parts and straightening parts that can be heated.
It really depends on your needs. The best tools you can afford for the intended purpose are what you need. Often poorly made or thought out tools do more damage than good.
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
I've used ash blocks in the past. Easy enough to replace as they wear. Hockey pucks for their availability and resiliency.
- Location
- West Quebec
I've seen a heavy molding clay used to support pistols in the past, I use a hockey puck when needed
If I am cleaning a handgun I like to have something to support the guns when I take them apart or putting them together.
The puck Idea sounds good.
I was wondering if a puck with three holes might work, one large hole and two smaller holes the two smaller holes could accommodate dowels to hold the puck in place, and the other a center hole for pins to drop in.
The puck Idea sounds good.
I was wondering if a puck with three holes might work, one large hole and two smaller holes the two smaller holes could accommodate dowels to hold the puck in place, and the other a center hole for pins to drop in.
A bunch of holes in some pucks is perfect.
If your work bench is strong and stiff enough you should not need the locating pins. Also when beating on anything like this it's best to do so over the leg instead of in the middle. Even a pretty solid bench will bounce a lot if you try hard enough. That's why bench vises are mounted directly over the corner leg when installed the way that they should be installed. Just keep the other corner clear for use with any sort of bench block.
Just be sure you sacrifice a couple of drill bits to the Gun Gods by altering the edge to drill with plastic so it doesn't catch badly. This video is about how to modify the lip of the twist drill to do brass. But the exact same mod is aces for drilling plastics. And it'll be especially important to use on a gooey and grabby plastic as found on pucks. I picked this video over another that is directly about plastics because the Clickspring guy does his photography to a whole other level than the other one. You can clearly see the 0° lip and how wide it should be in this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
Jzz30t, thanks for the hint about the practice pucks. I'm going to swing around to Cambodian Tire later today for something else and I'll pick up a couple.
If your work bench is strong and stiff enough you should not need the locating pins. Also when beating on anything like this it's best to do so over the leg instead of in the middle. Even a pretty solid bench will bounce a lot if you try hard enough. That's why bench vises are mounted directly over the corner leg when installed the way that they should be installed. Just keep the other corner clear for use with any sort of bench block.
Just be sure you sacrifice a couple of drill bits to the Gun Gods by altering the edge to drill with plastic so it doesn't catch badly. This video is about how to modify the lip of the twist drill to do brass. But the exact same mod is aces for drilling plastics. And it'll be especially important to use on a gooey and grabby plastic as found on pucks. I picked this video over another that is directly about plastics because the Clickspring guy does his photography to a whole other level than the other one. You can clearly see the 0° lip and how wide it should be in this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAngKHIZgyA
Jzz30t, thanks for the hint about the practice pucks. I'm going to swing around to Cambodian Tire later today for something else and I'll pick up a couple.
