Why do some of my rounds not chamber

tbooker

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I reloaded 40 or so rounds and about 15 or so would not chamber in my gun. Is this a case length issue? Over all length was what the book had listed so I don't think it was that. They were once fired brass that were full length sized but not trimed after.
 
Could be an overall length issue, or it could be that your gun doesnt like the projectile itself, or that the bullet wasnt seated deep enough.

Stand it up next to a factory loaded one. See if it's the same height/shorter/taller/wider/etc.

Some pistols don't feed wadcutters/truncated cones/flat point/hollowpoints as well as they feel ball ammo.

Post pics if you're not sure.
 
Are you full length resizing or just neck sizing. If just neck sizing you need to shoot these from the same rifle as they were originally shot due to differences in chamber geometry. Maybe not as much an issue with newer firearms but something like a SMLE .303Brit it is critical!
 
These are 30-06 being shot out of a Tika T-3 and remington bronze point bullets. I will double check the over all length tonight to see if it differs from factory rounds. These were full length sized so what firearm they were shot out of shouldn't be an issue. I have to pull all of the bullets anyway as the powder that I used, BL-C2, shot like sh.t out of the gun.
 
are you using dies that roll crimp ??

the different lenghts of brass (not trimmed) may be causing a problem as you are set up to crimp and a case that is longer might be getting squished down a little giving a slight bulge at the case sholder
 
I had the same problem and it turned out I wasn’t fully resizing my brass (using a lee hand press at the time). Ran the rounds through an RCBS Trim Die (15565) with a very light lube (with my new RCBS rock chucker), all the rounds chambered fine after.
 
I had the same problem and it turned out I wasn’t fully resizing my brass (using a lee hand press at the time). Ran the rounds through an RCBS Trim Die (15565) with a very light lube (with my new RCBS rock chucker), all the rounds chambered fine after.

This happened when I re-barreled my Weatherby. I have only handloaded for it, so it was pretty embarrassing to find out I just needed to turn the die down into the press further. The old chamber was slightly longer than the new one. I'll never make that mistake again.
 
Some guys think that lee stuff is poor quality. I do not think this way, you can screw up a load with a $100 lee or a $500 rcbs. It is the attention to detail and proceedure that will get you an accurate round.
 
As a mater of fact yes. What is the issue with the Lee press that would have you ask that?

I had the same issue with my .243 (which does have a fairly tight chamber). The LEE press seemed to have too much flex in the frame to completely FL size the brass. There seemed to be a small area right near the rim of the case which was not sized. I bought an RCBS and the problem immediately went away.
I like lee dies and some of their tools, but you will never see another Lee press on my bench.
 
The LEE press seemed to have too much flex in the frame to completely FL size the brass.

I'm pretty sure any force a human can apply to a hand press wouldn't cause a flexing of the frame or distortion of the ram. Anyone who has collapsed a straight wall case due to misalignment can attest to this.

While sizing some 45-90, I had a die adjusted to do a very minimal amount of resizing and the just barely pop the primer. I noticed that from time to time, I had to keep adjusting the die or some primers wouldn't pop. I think the issue was the lack of a recess around the bushing where the die screws in. It allows for small up and down movement of the die as it 'floats' in the threading and is really constrained by the rubber washer.

I have since put jam nuts on all my dies so they are screwed in and indexed consistently with no adjustments and I have never experienced an issue like this again.
 
If the Lee press was/is a Classic Cast, then I call shenanigans on the frame 'warping/bending/flexing'. I've reloaded .50BMG, de-rimmed .22 cases, and swaged jackets in mine. Although I have added a solid 2' long bar (instead of the hollow one that comes standard).
I would suggest you look more closely at the 'lock-nut'. Some people I know LOVE the o-ring friction lock idea, I hate it. I always drill and tap holes in them so I can set them withg a set-screw and not worry about over/under adjusting it when the o ring meets the frame.
 
If the Lee press was/is a Classic Cast, then I call shenanigans on the frame 'warping/bending/flexing'. I've reloaded .50BMG, de-rimmed .22 cases, and swaged jackets in mine. Although I have added a solid 2' long bar (instead of the hollow one that comes standard).
I would suggest you look more closely at the 'lock-nut'. Some people I know LOVE the o-ring friction lock idea, I hate it. I always drill and tap holes in them so I can set them withg a set-screw and not worry about over/under adjusting it when the o ring meets the frame.

Agreed,

I find that the Lee Dies have to be checked each time I use them in my Cast press. The lock nut will move slightly when putting in or taking out the die. The RCBS dies have an allen screw that you can tighten to set the lock nut in place similar to what was mentioned above and I have not had to make any fine adjustments with them since the day I set them up and tightened the allen screw.

Cactus
 
I found that using once fired cases from my autoloader would not resize properly to fit in my Tikka T3. I have no problems with cases fired from my Tikka or new cases not chambering.
 
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