Wildcat question

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Brian Wiley

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So I have 2 wildcat cartriges and love them both .I shoot a .30 gibbs and I also have a .270 gibbs.The 30 shots very well .I got the 270 back last spring and started fire formimg and building loads .I have tried 2 different ways to fire form brass.
The first 50 through the 27gibbs went great never lost one ,nice shoulders and full length resizing.The mtehod for this was to run the 270 brass through a 30/06 ,full lenght resizing die opening them up to .30 cal .Next step was to put them through the 270 gibbs dies sizing the neck down a little at a time till you can just get thr bolt to close .A very snug fit .Pop a fed 210 primer in top off 10 grains bulleye powder ,filil to the bottom of the neck ,stuff a piece of rolled paper towel in the end and bang!!.Now that I've bored y ou to death .I went to make another 50 brass to have in stock and I got 10 usable out of 50 brass.The shouldrs keep splitting out of the brass now .I even tried a different bag of brass at about 30 of the first bag .The splits are verticle on the shoulder .
Anybody got any Ideas of what is going on? :dancingbanana:
 
different brass, different hardness. Not win brass by chance is it? Very inconsistant batch to batch and brittle to start with, but the annealing is your answer. I rechambered that ruger in 450 ak did 30 348 brass I had lying around without a worry. Opened another bag and things started ripping apart at the neck like wild. Annealed and worries gone
 
As a matter of fact it i winchester brass and you are the second person to comment on the inconsistancy of said brass.
Now that being said I'm not up on the Annealing process !
I'm trying to find ,and read all I can right now .
 
Not quite the same process, but i have had a similar experience with fire forming .257 Ackley Improved from standard .257 Roberts.
The best results came from Remington brass. Hornady/Frontier was a close second.
Annealing your cases will definitely help, but be sure not to go to far/hot. You can make them too soft.
 
Brian Wiley said:
As a matter of fact it i winchester brass and you are the second person to comment on the inconsistancy of said brass.
Now that being said I'm not up on the Annealing process !
I'm trying to find ,and read all I can right now .
Click to expand...

So shock on the manufacturer..Anyhoo...The thing with annealing is not so much the heat rather that you get it evenly dispersed. You want the necks stretched fairly evenly or accuracy is out.So you gotta get a lee drill case holder or something that allows a slow spin at the outter edge of a propane torch flame over a pot of water. With the case being slowly spun horizontally and the flame contacting 3/8-1/2 " behind neck watch the color change (This must be done on shiney brass so as to see the colors)..YOU DONT WANT RED,WAY TO FAR..When the mouth of the brass goes blue, the straw brown will run back to where you got the torch fairly quickly. The instant the straw brown gets to the same place your flames held quickly plunge the brass half into the water. Take it out of your jig and go again. Now some fellas dont like the eyeball way so they buy a 650 degree templestic, put a smudge behind the shoulder,heat till it just melts and dunk.Your call
 
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Thankyoyu for your time and info .Not trying to sound to stupid but would you anneal befor the resizing and putting the secondary shoulder on or after ? I assume because you want to work the brass I should do it first .
 
Brian Wiley said:
Thankyoyu for your time and info .Not trying to sound to stupid but would you anneal befor the resizing and putting the secondary shoulder on or after ? I assume because you want to work the brass I should do it first .
Click to expand...

Right off the bat is how I do it bro,for your reasons,plus so its nice and shiney,I can watch my heat color run easier
 
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