Win 100 problem

bobv

bobv

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I have a Winchester model 100 that I'm trying to fix . The problem is that the action is locked shut, I can't #### it , when I pull on the cocking lever it only back out 1/4" , the trigger seems to be pulled back as far far it can go and the safety buttom is jammed in the in between on and off. It wont go completly the side or the other. I can"t get the action out of the stock either because I have to pull the lever to the back to do so which it won't do!!! :mad: Seeing it's not mine I don't want to break anything
any suggestions would help.
Thanks
Bob
 
bobv said:
I have a Winchester model 100 that I'm trying to fix . The problem is that the action is locked shut, I can't #### it , when I pull on the cocking lever it only back out 1/4" , the trigger seems to be pulled back as far far it can go and the safety buttom is jammed in the in between on and off. It wont go completly the side or the other. I can"t get the action out of the stock either because I have to pull the lever to the back to do so which it won't do!!! :mad: Seeing it's not mine I don't want to break anything
any suggestions would help.
Thanks
Bob
Click to expand...

Is it is loaded? Determine that with a cleaning rod and if it is, stop doing anything with it and get it to a smith.

What caused this problem? Did the rifle suddenly stop functioning? Is there a shell stuck in the chamber? If there is a fired shell stuck in the chamber, while pulling back on the handle, have someone tap the cleaning rod against the stuck shell firmly... it should eventually open if it is a stuck shell. Was the gun working and you thought you should take it apart? Details, details, details.....

Take it to a gunsmith familiar with 100's and he might be able to save the stock while trying to get it apart. Dont remove any screws or try to force it, you may only make it worse. There is also a chance the gunsmith will damage it... the fact that the hammer isn't cocked with the safety on may pose a big problem...
 
I expect the piston is rust welded into the gas cylinder. You will need to get some penetrating oil into that area, let it stand for a day or so and then you should be able to tap the bolt open. I would recommend that you take it to a gunsmith who is experienced in this correction since it is fairly easy to break the action bars.
 
My first thought on this was what smoji said, although I was thinking powder fouling in the gas cylinder/piston (Parts 12 A and 14). Mask off your stock and spray some penetrating oil in there if you feel comfortable doing so.
Another thing, the cross-pin (Part # 18) that holds the trigger assembly onto the receiver may have slightly walked out to the side and is stopping your action bars from coming back.
The safety may come out if you can rotate the head of it and slide it out. Just be careful, there is a spring and plunger in there that you don't want to lose.
If you don't feel brave enough to try any of this, take it to a qualified gunsmith who has experience with these rifles. Parts are hard pressed to find, go slow.
 
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From thehighroad.org:

"MODEL 100 DISASSEMBLY: The proper disassembly of the model 100 is to first remove the magazine, then remove the forearm screw AND the trigger guard screw behind the trigger guard. Now pull the operating handle all the way to the rear. While holding it to the rear, pivot the barrel unit up out of the stock. The rear of the receiver is held in place by it fitting in a notch in the recoil block in the stock. The reason that the operating handle has to be rearward is to allow enough clearance for the side rods from the handle to the gas cylinder unit to clear the slot in the forearm section. Since these rods are hidden in the forearm with wood covering them except when the handle is pulled all the way back.

If the gas cylinder is rusted so tightly into the operating slide assembly that it can not be pulled rearward, there is one solution. You will by now have some movement of the barrel away from the forearm. Select a long punch that will go in between the barrel & the forearm. Locate the small retainer ring that locks the gas cylinder sleeve/plug in place, hit it hard enough with the punch to break it. Now you can use a large long screwdriver to engage the slot on the end of this plug, unscrew it. You should now be able to move the operating handle to the rear. What you have done is to remove the “cap nut” that holds the gas cylinder into the barrels gas lug, the cylinder being rusted in the operating handle, it will now be retracted out of the lug, allowing the handle to be retracted. This information supplied by a long-time Winchester warranty gunsmith Walter Lodewick.

MODEL 100 OPERATING HANDLE FREE BUT NOT RETRACTING ALL THE WAY :- This usually can be attributed to the owner trying to disassemble the gun using the thought that the trigger housing will come out first from the bottom. They can not get it to come out (usually bending the side rails) so they reassemble it, only to now find that the handle will not operate. What they have done is that the safety somehow got pushed off, in the process, they pulled the trigger & not knowing what has just happened, when they retightened this unit the hammer’s top rear corner is now bound up between the bolt sleeve & the head on the rear of the firing pin. The trick is now to remove the rear guard screw, pry the trigger guard assembly down far enough to reach inside & recock the hammer with a long hooked rod."

More:
http://www.wisnersinc.com/additionalinfo/winchesterl_88_100.htm
 
We get them in the shop like that every now and again, basically the hammer is in the wrong position(down), for where the breech block is.
 
I have had many to repair,clean etc. and somtimes had to put a long dowl down the barrel and hit it lightly with a hammer to unseize the piston-gas cylinder they were rusted so badly together.Just poor maint usually is the prob.
I've never come across the prob ben said with a 100 yet but many times with an 88 but that's just my findings so far.
You might try to get the receiver block out first and that should tell you if the hammer is up or down and if down you can recock it and then hopfully open the action,then you should know if the action is siezed.
88
 
Thanks to everyone who gave me some tips on fixing the Win 100 . As mentioned it's not mine ,just trying to help someone else. So after fiddeling around with it for a couple of days and not getting anywhere , I'm letting a friend , who has fixed one not long ago, have a go at it.
Again thanks for all the tips
Bob
 
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