Winchester Model 1897 Questions

Fred24

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Hi guys, I could buy a Winchester model 1897 28-30inch barrel made in the 20s. I'd like to have an opinion from someone who knows them well, I'd like to know the approximate value of the exemple I want to buy. It's pretty well used and has almost no finish left on it. But still in working condition.

Any thoughts and things I need to know about these before buying one ?


I can send pictures in private if you guys want to see it.




Thanks !
 
For what you describe I personally wouldn't go above $350. My experience with these guns is they are very finicky about what type of hull you use. and they don't care for modern magnum loads.
 
He means that the gun might function better with say..paper hulled shells rather than plastic, some brands of shells better than others. In other words-finicky. He also implies correctly that modern magnum loads could wreck havoc on a 100 yr old gun.
 
Gun show guys ask $400+ because you can use them for cowboy action shoots. Worth a little more then your average $175 full choke pumps at the shows in the condition you describe. Mine are old rough barrels work with any good ammo.
 
Early 1897s were chambered in 2 9/16ths. I have an 1897 that will only work properly with 2 1/2" shells. But, with 2 1/2" shells, it functions flawlessly. Early '97s were also solid frame (as is the military trench gun version). Those since very early in the 1900s are take-down.

I have 4 1897s that work fine with 2 3/4" shells. Most (but not all) 1897s chambered in 2 3/4 will have 2 3/4 stamped on the barrel. No '97s were EVER chambered in anything longer than 2 3/4" so, yes, you can forget about 3 or 3 1/2" magnum. These guns are not for steel shot, anyway; the barrels were never intended for steel, and the overwhelming majority of them are full choked.

When evaluating one, you should load a 2 3/4 inch snap cap in the chamber and 2 in the magasine (while you're at it, check to make sure 3 shells don't fit in the magasine). Drop the hammer on the snap cap and cycle the action. The "spent" shell should extract and eject cleanly and the carrier should carry a fresh snap cap into the chamber. Repeat. All 3 shells should eject. If the chambered shell doesn't extract, or shells get "tangled" in the carrier, the gun probably needs extractors or ejectors. The work will cost what the gun's worth.

Cycling and firing live shells is much preferred, but obviously not always possible.

Dark black staining of the stock just behind the receiver is caused by oil leaking down into the wood when the gun is stored vertically. Badly stained stocks and/or stocks with cracking should be avoided. You can replace the stock easily enough (and many have already been done), but adjust the purchase price down to cover the work.

Watch for looseness between the receiver and the barrel/magasine assembly. If any exists, it can usually be adjusted out, but you should check the adjustment sleeve to see how much it has already been adjusted. There are 5 adjustment sleeves in all, each one with enough adjustment to offset a significant amount of looseness. Even with mild abuse, these guns should last hundreds of years. A good number of them have already passed their first centennial.
 
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