I need some advice on how to repair a Winchester Model 1897 12 ga made in 1911. Sometimes after firing the bolt jams so that the slide cannot be pulled back to extract and eject the fired round and feed a second round. Pressing the slide release does not work, but if I recock the hammer and fire it on the empty round the bolt releases and the slide can be pulled back to feed the next round. This occurs about every 3rd or 4th time using Winchester Super Target ammo. Does anybody know what causes the problem and how it can be repaired?
Winchester Model 97 - Bolt Jams
- Thread starter LPT
- Start date
First off. This might be normal. Winchester's model 1897 has a lock mechanism that requires the slide to be moved forward (toward the muzzle) before it can be pulled back toward the receiver to cycle the action. In normal use, the recoil jams the gun back far enough to trip this mechanism, leaving the shooter free to cycle the action as fast as possible to be ready for the second shot. Happens automatically with every shot.
When simply cycling shells from the magasine, into the chamber, and out the ejection port, there is no recoil and the action will seemingly be jammed. Cram the forestock forward and pull it immediately back to cycle the action. If this works, you know your '97 is fine. If it doesn't work, you may actually have a problem. Post again, if you do.
When simply cycling shells from the magasine, into the chamber, and out the ejection port, there is no recoil and the action will seemingly be jammed. Cram the forestock forward and pull it immediately back to cycle the action. If this works, you know your '97 is fine. If it doesn't work, you may actually have a problem. Post again, if you do.
I can cycle loaded shells from the magazine to the chamber by depressing the slide release button without any problems. I emptied two full magazines this way today.
It is definitely not normal to be unable to pull the slide back after firing a round which is what happens - not every time but I'd say every 3rd or 4th round fired. Jamming the slide forward hard before shooting does not solve the problem. As noted, once the gun has been discharged and the slide stays locked, the only way to release it is to #### the hammer with one's finger and then press the trigger releasing the hammer on the fired cartridge already in the chamber. After doing this the slide will pull back every time.
It is definitely not normal to be unable to pull the slide back after firing a round which is what happens - not every time but I'd say every 3rd or 4th round fired. Jamming the slide forward hard before shooting does not solve the problem. As noted, once the gun has been discharged and the slide stays locked, the only way to release it is to #### the hammer with one's finger and then press the trigger releasing the hammer on the fired cartridge already in the chamber. After doing this the slide will pull back every time.
Well - Try another type of ammo. Winchester ammo, even the more expensive Super Target is prone to sticking in the chamber after firing. In your case, recocking the hammer and refiring the spent round causes the stuck case to free up.
Have to agree with the quoted post try some ammo that has a real brass head Win AA , Remington Premier ,Federal gold medal not the plated steel like the Winchester super target .the super targets are known for sticking in the chamber of many different guns .
There is something to this statement.
Buddy had one that was finnnnickititty like this at our gun show.
I took it apart and G-96'd the buhjeeeeezuss owt oh it.
Started making nice clackity noises, but still stubbern awn opening.
Then some smartie pants came bye and did whut SS mentioned.
Some sort of safety feeture they yewsed back in demdere days oh youre.
I shot a round of skeet this morning with the 97. I used Winchester Super Target on singles and loaded Winchester AA's for the first shot on doubles. Using the Super Target I had seven jams (as expected). After the 1st jam I jammed the slide forward hard and was then able to pull it back afterward and eject the spent shell but on all subsequent jams pulling the slide forward after shooting did not free the action. On doubles the AA's worked perfectly with no jams. I do not think, though, that the AA's in fact have brass heads (at that price I would expect it). Tried a magnet test on one and the magnet stuck fast to it.
R&R Rancher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Manitoba's Interlake
Well, the action slide lock spring looked ok to me - not very crudded up and seemed to have reasonable tension, but the action slide lock was another story. It was encrusted with quite a bit of hard residue which could only be scrapped off with a blade and its channel in the carrier was in the same condition. After cleaning and reassembly the slide lock moves in and out freely and the spring pushes it out all the way too. Will shoot the gun next Sunday and see if there's any improvement with the cheaper steel headed loads.
BTW, not a big deal, but your 1897 was chambered in 2 9/16ths. VERY few 1897 owners concern themselves with this because:
a) what can you do? 2 1/2" shells are not easy to find
b) 1897's are solidly built and can take the added pressures
c) the model 1897 has 5 adjustment sleeves available for after the original that came with the gun wears out, so a little looseness in the action is easy to resolve - no gunsmith required.
However, using 2 3/4" shells DOES put the gun under higher pressures than it was intended. The crimp in the shell opens partially into the forcing cone, rather than completely in the chamber. This, in turn, tends to obstruct and deform the shot cup, potentially causing uneven patterns.
For sure most owners use any and every 2 3/4" shells. I know from personal experience that they don't seriously harm the gun. But, if you want the least recoil with the best patterns, 2 1/2" shells are the way to go. Besides, Gamebore shells from the UK (available locally from your Kent Cartridge dealer) are not only 2 1/2" and lower pressure to begin with, they employ felt wads and no shot cups - which allows the choke in the gun to do the job it was designed to do. I find them far superior in the field to the alternatives, but I've never tried shooting trap with them (sounds like something I should try).
a) what can you do? 2 1/2" shells are not easy to find
b) 1897's are solidly built and can take the added pressures
c) the model 1897 has 5 adjustment sleeves available for after the original that came with the gun wears out, so a little looseness in the action is easy to resolve - no gunsmith required.
However, using 2 3/4" shells DOES put the gun under higher pressures than it was intended. The crimp in the shell opens partially into the forcing cone, rather than completely in the chamber. This, in turn, tends to obstruct and deform the shot cup, potentially causing uneven patterns.
For sure most owners use any and every 2 3/4" shells. I know from personal experience that they don't seriously harm the gun. But, if you want the least recoil with the best patterns, 2 1/2" shells are the way to go. Besides, Gamebore shells from the UK (available locally from your Kent Cartridge dealer) are not only 2 1/2" and lower pressure to begin with, they employ felt wads and no shot cups - which allows the choke in the gun to do the job it was designed to do. I find them far superior in the field to the alternatives, but I've never tried shooting trap with them (sounds like something I should try).
Cleaning the action slide lock seems to have solved the problem - shot a round of skeet with the gun this morning using a mixture of Winchester Super Target and Federal Target ammunition (both with steel heads) with no jams whatsoever including on each station loading two shells for shooting the high and low house singles.
Interesting about the 2 9/16" chambers on earlier 97's. I've heard that any increases in pressure and/or deformation of patterns caused by use of 2 3/4" star crimped shells are greater using paper hulled loads than modern plastic hulled ones because the paper is thicker than the plastic.
Interesting about the 2 9/16" chambers on earlier 97's. I've heard that any increases in pressure and/or deformation of patterns caused by use of 2 3/4" star crimped shells are greater using paper hulled loads than modern plastic hulled ones because the paper is thicker than the plastic.
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