Winchester P14 restore in progress (lots of pictures)

koesdibyo

koesdibyo

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
280   0   0
Location
Orillia, Ontario
Here it is as she arrived to me, in all her ugliness. I dont doubt she's an excellent shooter, but this stock just doesnt tickle my fancy one bit. Figured it would look better in some full wood.








After removing the ugly hunk of wood, here is what I was left with. Seems it has a lot of "E" stamped pieces mixed throughout it.
Unfortunately the ears off the front sight were cut too. Waiting on some brass punches to be able to get the pin out and swap the front sight carrier.































--------------------------

And the new wood acquired from Ebay after countless hours of searching, and a fair chunk taken out of my bank account.











----------------

And how she looks in the new wood. Still missing a rear handguard and some of the accessories. Hopefully will have all the necessary components shortly (looking on sarco, numrich, liberty, and there is a military show coming to my area shortly).






 
Last edited:
Very cool. full stocks are getting to be unobtainable so the prices are skyrocketing. Hand guards are available from Numrich I have bought a few from them. A very fun build indeed.
 
Thanks guys. Its my first attempt at a restore, and its been fun searching for parts so far; of course frustrating too.

I have a sporter No1 MKIII* I wanted to restore as well but gave up on that one (sidelined for a bit) due to the lack of wood availability!
 
Goo98 said:
I heard that the front sight base can be removed with relative ease using a removal tool for an M1 Carbine.
Click to expand...

Ive got it soaking in oil now, and heating it every day to try and get it nice and loose for when my brass punches arrive. Hopefully it will come off with a couple knocks with the hammer.

If not, Ive got a 2 jaw puller ($5 CDN tire special) Im going to try to use to pull it. May need some slight modification to it, but im thinking it should work.
 
I used a narrow steel punch.

You will need something hard. After having done a few of these myself, I can tell you that brass is too soft.

You're only taking off the sight guard and it has been cut down anyway, so I wouldn't worry about any marring or scratching.

I have a spare handguard or two. Problem is they are not on me. If you still need some in a month, let me know.
 
Tyler said:
I used a narrow steel punch.

You will need something hard. After having done a few of these myself, I can tell you that brass is too soft.

You're only taking off the sight guard and it has been cut down anyway, so I wouldn't worry about any marring or scratching.

I have a spare handguard or two. Problem is they are not on me. If you still need some in a month, let me know.
Click to expand...

I was only going off my internet research on how to go about it, and the brass punches came up numerous times. But I see what you're saying, and it is going to be going to the scrap pile after its off too, so I dont really care how it comes off (scratched, or not).

I took out a steel punch to it, and it didnt budge. Have it soaking some more, and will continue to heat and oil over the next day and try again. Worst case scenario... out comes the dremel (carefully of course)

And greatly appreciate your offer too, will keep you in mind if by chance I do need one that far from now still :)
 
Hi koesdibyo... I just removed my own P14 sight just an hour ago... I 'll post it here... hope this might help you out.

I swear, mine felt like it was welded on. I think after 100 years the molecules must 'drift together' or something and become almost a solid... anyways:

Yes, the 2 jaw puller is great, and you will need it for sure BUT you will find the dam thing slips off the sight base when you try and torque it to any extent.

Try this instead, and even the hardest one will loosen up and slide off slicker than deer guts on a doorknob...

1) Make SURE the cross pin is out. (You'd be surprised...)



2) Heat up the base, hot... don't be afraid to get it really hot, wet your finger and it should sizzle



3) Use masking tape to protect your blueing... don't worry if it smokes or sticks... you can clean it off later.



4) The tape will help center the 5/8 open end wrench you need to support the base on the vise... don't forget old sock for your blueing!
Orient the wrench like shown, to avoid running the sight base key into the wrench and buggering everything up.



5) This is the magic piece... make one up in advance from a 1/4" Robertson screw ( the square head will be useful later) and a washer ( the washer rides on the crown of the barrel and will not contact or bugger up your rifling) and wrap the threads in masking tape so it just slides into the bore.



6) Pop the gizmo into the bore, make sure the 5/8" wrench is located properly, the sock is in place, the vise just tight enough so the barrel can slide up and down easily... then smack the little bastard smartly with a ball peen hammer. DON'T just whale away at her, either. Controlled hits, square with the screw head. Remember the sight base is hot as he11... or SHOULD be. Heat is your friend... if you heat the sight base only, evenly, and not TOO much... like NOT red-frigging-hot, then you will NOT take the heat treat from your barell.



7) Once you have "cracked" the unholy bond between the barrel and the sight base, you will hear it and see it start to move... stop using the hammer.
You can now remove the gizmo, and replace it with another plain Robertson screw with the threads taped up as before. The screw is big enough to not contact the rifling either.



8) NOW use your new puller, the square head will center the puller with the bore, the small purchase the jaws actually get on the sight base is not great, but quite good enough to....



9) Remove the sight base with hardly any effort at all, simple hand-torque with an adjustable wrench was all I needed, and finished with just my fingers. Oh yes... the sight base will be hot. Yes, still quite hot. Ask me how I know....



Well.. hope this helps save your valuable parts, your blueing, and your sanity.
 
Awesome writeup!!!! Thank you very much. Still working away at that damn cross pin still, but once that's out I really like your method. May as well save some grief and hop right to it rather than try and fail, reset, try and fail... swear a bunch, switch to your way haha.

Cheers,
Cody
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom