Windage know - How to center it?

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gelatine

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Hi,

I'll receive a Viper HS LR soon. I have a stupid question here.
Usally, windage knob would give you hundreds CLICKS from one side to the other. Assuming it's 150 clicks, so it would be 75 clicks to be "right on" center.
So, IDEALLY, if I can have windage right on center and mount it, I'm supposed to have plenty room from one side to the other.

Anyone has idea how to achieve it? Within few clicks is still acceptable.

Any comments / opinion are appreciated. Thanks.

PS. Sorry, SP, Windage KNOB.
 
Last edited:
gelatine said:
Hi,

I'll receive a Viper HS LR soon. I have a stupid question here.
Usally, windage knob would give you hundreds CLICKS from one side to the other. Assuming it's 150 clicks, so it would be 75 clicks to be "right on" center.
So, IDEALLY, if I can have windage right on center and mount it, I'm supposed to have plenty room frmo one side to the other.

Anyone has idea how to achieve it? Within few clicks is still acceptable.

Any comments / opinion are appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Click over all the way to one side... then instead of clicks, count scope rotations while holding knob still. It will get you in the ballpark
 
Unless I'm mistaken, he needs advice on how to mount the scope so he only needs to move a few clicks FROM a centered position to sight the rifle in.
I guess you could shim the side of the rings, but I've never done that, never needed to.
My advice is to buy quality rings and mounts, they should put you close to begin with.
 
Burris Signature rings (and other similar) have a plastic insert that can be replaced with one that has a bit of offset. By rotating the insert relative to the ring you can adjust the scope windage. It'll also give you a bit of elevation, so you'll need to compensate for that.

The other option is to use one or more windage-adjustable ring(s).
 
Mount the scope on the rifle. Zero it.
What difference does it make if the windage adjustment is centered when the scope is off the rifle? If you cannot zero the rifle, then you have a problem, but otherwise don't worry about it. It is good if there is lots of adjustment left after the rifle is zeroed.
Don't count clicks. The scope has perfectly good scales.
 
To center the adjustments:
Place the scope in a set of "V" blocks looking at a target... rotate the scope and see how the center of the reticle wanders around as you do this... adjust the windage and elevation until the center of the reticle stays in the same place as the scope is rotated in the "V" blocks. That will have the adjustments centered.

Then read post #9 again.

Post 6 - never shim a ring, up, down or sideways... a 1" ring is meant to fit a 1" scope tube... place shims inside the ring and you can compress and dent the tube and it will not move the ring sideways...
 
tiriaq said:
What difference does it make if the windage adjustment is centered when the scope is off the rifle?
Click to expand...

In extreme cases (like if you have to crank the windage way to one size to zero it) it can result in poor image quality through the scope, and an inability to make necessary windage adjustments in the field. If a new rifle had mis-drilled mounting holes I'd send it in under warranty, but on an old rifle it might make sense to use some form of windage-adjustable rings.
 
The mirror technique is the easiest way to optically center the scope, it is sort of interesting to see how that position relates to the final zero but as Tiriaq points out it's not that relevant or necessary for the majority of cases when zeroing at the range.
 
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