Wipe-Out Foam vs. Liquid

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Looking to do a deep cleaning during the current rainy season on the Coast, and I've noticed Reliable Gun sells two different Wipe-Out products. One is the Wipe-Out foam and the other is Wipe-Out Liquid.

I assume they're both the same formula, but am wondering from those with experience using the product which is better - or are they similar enough? I would assume the foaming cleaner would work quicker, but probably ends up cleaning fewer barrels per container versus the liquid which probably requires more work to get a barrel cleaned - but may last longer?

Anyhow, thanks in advance for your input.
 
I used to use the foam and it works great, but you are right, one can does not go as far as a bottle of the Patch Out in my experience.

As for speed, they seem to be about the same as I let them sit overnight. There's also an accelerator available.
 
Please don't take this as a dis.

If you're using the Wipe Out Patch Out Liquid properly, it will clean every bit as well as the foam version.

I've gone through this with several different people. Most folks just don't know how to use liquid bore cleaners properly.

I know they say just get it in the bore and patch it out. Yes, it works. They also make an ACCELERATOR which will help with really stubborn fouling.

If you want to help the WO work better, before you spray in the foam or soak with a patch, use a brush to loosen things up. A couple of strokes with a properly fitting brass/copper brush will do.

Now, here's the biggest problem that most folks have with just about all liquid cleaning products, including WO.

DO NOT USE A TIGHT FITTING PATCH TO APPLY THE LIQUID TO THE BORE.

USE A SOAKED, LOOSE FITTING PATCH TO APPLY THE LIQUID

A loose fitting patch will allow more liquid to stay behind, in an even manner, through the whole bore.

Many folks immediately start patching. It doesn't matter if it's Wipe Out or any other liquid cleaner. The liquid needs to be left in the bore long enough to do the job.

In the case of Wipe Out, it can be left in the bore overnight, without doing harm to the bore. Not so with some other cleaners.

One thing, with Wipe Out you're often cleaning right down to the steel, in every nook and cranny in your bore. Don't expect it to be shooting to point of aim, without a couple of fouling shots.
 
bearhunter said:
One thing, with Wipe Out you're often cleaning right down to the steel, in every nook and cranny in your bore. Don't expect it to be shooting to point of aim, without a couple of fouling shots.
Click to expand...

I found out the hard way...my bores were perfected...So proud...lol
But accuracy fell dramatically till 20+ rounds.

Not a fan of brass bore bushes and WO. Unless you clean them in solvent after.
Dip a nylon bore brush in some Hoppes 9, Brush a bit, run a dry patch, then foam WO over night.
Works good for me.
 
What do you guys think of Carb-Out? I'd rather leave the copper fouling in the barrel (until accuracy falls off) but I feel a need to clean after every use of a rifle. Or is there something better out there?
 
rifleman762 said:
What do you guys think of Carb-Out? I'd rather leave the copper fouling in the barrel (until accuracy falls off) but I feel a need to clean after every use of a rifle. Or is there something better out there?
Click to expand...

Kroil mixed 50/50 with Hoppes #9

HuskyDude, 20+ rounds to get consistent, reliable accuracy???? Something is awry IMHO. Mind you, it just may be an anomaly with your particular rifle.

I had one that way and pulled the barrel. I have another, Antonio Zoli Mauser, chambered in 30-06, which goes for close to a hundred rounds before it the groups start to open up and it cleans back to steel with the first application of Wipe Out. Needs two fouling rounds to get back to POA

When I was shooting Hunter Benchrest, a good friend of mine, Albert Forsland (passed away from a heart attack, while on a Duck hunt 12 years ago) and I did some experiments with brushes.

We tried, copper/bronze/stainless steel/nylon and a now defunct Parker Hale felt disc system. They all worked as well as any other as far as cleaning goes. Couldn't really tell any difference in the results with any of them, other than the nylon wouldn't do anything with some liquid cleaners, other than to remove surface carbon fouling.

There seems to be a myth out there that metal brushes will damage a barrel. NOT IF YOUR CLEANING PROCEDURE IS CORRECT. The metal used for those bristles is much softer than barrel steel and a bit harder than jacket fouling, but not much. That's why we would resort to grit cleaners on tight patches, such as IOSSO/JBs/Motty's bore paste if we had a nasty fouling build up. For ME, Wipe Out eliminated those products and that particular bit of grief, unless the build up occurred during a match.

I have nothing against nylon brushes and even have several in different calibers. I tried bore mops with WO but those things really soak up a lot of cleaner and they get rock hard if they aren't set into some solvent.

Wipe Out will attack bronze/copper brushes. The thing is, just the job of cleaning the bore attacks the bristles on all brushes. Another big mistake made by shooters is to keep on using a brush long after its most effective point of wear has been exceeded. Cleaning tools are like any other tools. Some have parts that wear out and need to be replaced frequently. Brushes are cheap and disposable tools, just like a worn out pair of shoes. They may look good but they don't work well.
 
I prefer the foam for ease of application. No rods to assemble or wipe down afterwards. Just spray, and let it sit.

I only really use it when I get a "new" milsurp, or every few hundred rounds. More often for pitted bores, naturally.
 
I use Wipeout, Patchout and Accelerator to clean all my rifles. It's usually a matter of 3 wet patches, 10 nylon brush strokes, an appropriate rest period and 3 more wet patches to remove most if not all copper fouling. I finish with 2 dry patches and 1 oil patch.

HuskyDude said:
But accuracy fell dramatically till 20+ rounds.
Click to expand...

20 seems a bit much but could be barrel dependent. Using a chronograph, I found that a completely stripped bore had higher velocities for the first 3 rounds and then normalized after that. I like to keep the bores clean and run an oil patch through when I'm done.

I like the following video about rifle cleaning, although the Gunwerks folks push KG products, it applies just the same to Wipeout and Patchout:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWg3B6pLrdw

They claim that running an oil patch down a clean bore will simulate fouling and make the first shot group with the rest on most barrels. While I have found this to be true, as stated earlier I also found that the first 3 shots had higher velocities that the rest. Not an issue for a hunting rifle shooting under 300 yards but could be an issue for a longer distance cold bore shot.
 
What would you recommend for working the bore after leaving the wipeout in it for time to work? Do you brush it afterwards? Nylon or bronze? Or just patch it out?
 
Nothing better than purchasing a milsurp rifle, having the previous owner say "ya it has a clean shiny bore."
Putting some WO in it overnight and then the first patch in the morning is such a beautiful dark blue!!!
Love that stuff.
 
Tyler said:
I prefer the foam for ease of application. No rods to assemble or wipe down afterwards. Just spray, and let it sit.

I only really use it when I get a "new" milsurp, or every few hundred rounds. More often for pitted bores, naturally.
Click to expand...

So you just shoot the cleaning residue out???? I suspect you meant the protracted scrubbing process associated with other cleaners??
 
From the sound of things there's no difference in results from either variation of Wipe-Out, but it sounds as though the foam is a slightly easier application - but then has the same amount of effort to finish the job off with brush/patches.

I can't remember off the top of my head if there is a price difference between the liquid and the foam, so which product tends to last longer; the foam or the liquid?

I've heard the foam can last 50+ cleanings, although I suspect that is starting with a "clean" bore rather than a more standard milsurp bore.
 
The trick with the foam is to stop applying pushing to the nozzle before you see the foam come out the end of the barrel.
It's a "timing thing".
After a few applications you learn not to waste any. Still need some news paper down to catch some drips.
Keep barrel level so it doesn't drip out.
Best not to get any on the wood stock either.
Although it states on the can "Safe for Modern gun stock finishes and carbon steel"
Fine print says "WipeOut will dissolve varnish, lacquer shellac and oil finishes.
 
I use both. Typically I start with a couple wet/dry patches with Patch Out then foam, let sit, dry patches then I'll run some Patch Out through and let sit for a few mins before running a dry patch through to check for copper. I have had to brush carbon buildup out after multiple overnight soakings with Wipe Out that just wouldn't break it down. I could feel patches dragging on it from the throat to about mid bore and kept getting faint blue streaks with grey carbon. I have no problem running a bronze brush through with a bore full of Wipe or Patch Out. I toss them into a tin of acetone right after. You get dark blue and black patches right after. I run wet/dry with Patch Out until it cleans up then the aforementioned "investigative" soak to tell me if I got everything. And everything Bearhunter said is true. Loose patch heavily soaked is best. You want a good volume of product in the bore for fastest results. I'll even run an extra patch through if I know I've got some good fouling to get rid of. On semiautos I sometimes just use Patch Out. The foam will come out of gas ports quite aggressively if not plugged. It's also the bee's mittens or the kitten's knees or whatever for cleaning up after corrosive ammunition.
 
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