Wood....or metal?

If metal is your thing then I've seen the perfect combination for you. All steel for legs supporting frame and top surface then apply a layer of battleship linoleum on the top. I had one like this when I started out at an electronics shop. It was old when I got there but other than the paint chips on the metal part the bench and lino top looked great despite having had equipment dragged over it for years.

To avoid having to make 27 holes in various patterns for the different reloading machines install the machines on adapter plates that are made up to fit the bench holes and then the machines are mounted to the adapter plate. That way you can swap them out easily as needed or just move them when you want the whole bench for some other use of the moment.

Another hint that I learned from my own bench building over the years. Make one leg a little short and install an inset nut, or a welded on nut in your case, then use a big bolt with a foot welded to the head as an adjuster. Even if your bench is truly flat and even floors seldom are polite enough to follow suit. The adjuster makes it easy for getting rid of that last bit of rocking. This has worked so well for me that I use it on all my stands, benches or working tables. Now I'm happy to just get rid of any rocking. I don't worry about it being dead nutz level. But if that's a concern make one leg full length and put adjusters on the other three.
 
Remember that thread a while ago about that guy that shot electricity through powder and it didn't go off? I think I'll be fine with a metal frame.

I don't know if you're talking about me or not. I took a small piece of steel and set it under the hood of my service truck. I pulled an ignition wire and stuffed a regular piece of wire in the end of it and shot the sparks through a small pile of powder. It did finally ignite it, but it took quite a while. I'm guessing it was probably a small microscopic piece of vapourized steel that actually did the igniting more than the sparks. Wierd things sometimes hapen, but for me, static electricity isn't an issue that I worry about. An aircraft might crash into my house tomorrow, but I'm not going to worry about that either

I think the reason most of us build ours out of wood is that it's easier for most people to get and work with. If the Mrs wouldn't get bent about me firing up a buzz box in the furnace room, I'd have a nice welded metal bench.
 
Here's something for you "static electricity" mongers to peruse......

http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/sparks/sparks.html

Hey outoftowner, you could always make an all steel bench and then cement some conveyor belt/rubber sheet/battleship lino to the top.:)

So.......what are you trying to say Joe ??? :D ;)

Oh....and you forgot....he should top off with spark proof, antistatic, bullet proof, low glare, polymer/kevlar blended paint. Also, he should drive in a 10 ft 3/4" solid copper ground rod and attach it to one of the metal table legs with 1/0 cable. After all, you never know when a lightening strike might penetrate the reloading room. :D

Annnnnyway....I think the reason most people build their benches out of wood is it's easier to get than metal......most people don't have access to a welder or a cut off saw....etc..etc...etc. For most people, wood is cheaper, and easier to work with. If my wife wouldn't have freaked at me firing up a buzz box in the furnace room in the basement, I'd have built mine out of 100% metal.
 
If metal is your thing then I've seen the perfect combination for you. All steel for legs supporting frame and top surface then apply a layer of battleship linoleum on the top. I had one like this when I started out at an electronics shop. It was old when I got there but other than the paint chips on the metal part the bench and lino top looked great despite having had equipment dragged over it for years.

To avoid having to make 27 holes in various patterns for the different reloading machines install the machines on adapter plates that are made up to fit the bench holes and then the machines are mounted to the adapter plate. That way you can swap them out easily as needed or just move them when you want the whole bench for some other use of the moment.

Another hint that I learned from my own bench building over the years. Make one leg a little short and install an inset nut, or a welded on nut in your case, then use a big bolt with a foot welded to the head as an adjuster. Even if your bench is truly flat and even floors seldom are polite enough to follow suit. The adjuster makes it easy for getting rid of that last bit of rocking. This has worked so well for me that I use it on all my stands, benches or working tables. Now I'm happy to just get rid of any rocking. I don't worry about it being dead nutz level. But if that's a concern make one leg full length and put adjusters on the other three.

Good ideas, so, where would someone get some of this "Battleship linoleum"?
 
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