Wood stock cracked
- Thread starter tommy88
- Start date
madtrapper143
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Steep Rock Lake NWO
Quick and dirty. Remove stock. Force open crack with small screw driver (gently) Dampen one side of crack face, apply Gorilla glue and clamp. It won't be gunsmith perfect but it will be strong and make the gun useable.
Darryl
Darryl
Posts two and three are quick and dirty fixes.
But, might be worth it to soak in some acetone at the wrist for a few hours and then allow to dry.
Inject one or the other of the afore mentioned bonding agents and squeeze tight .
Rubber bands could be used to hold the wood till the stuff sets.
You might even want to pin it...but thats more work .
Just a tinkerer and not a gunsmith woodworker.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/2150632-Update-fixing-a-wrist-on-a-Savage-219-now-a-need-to-not-a-want-to?highlight=cracked+stock
Rob
But, might be worth it to soak in some acetone at the wrist for a few hours and then allow to dry.
Inject one or the other of the afore mentioned bonding agents and squeeze tight .
Rubber bands could be used to hold the wood till the stuff sets.
You might even want to pin it...but thats more work .
Just a tinkerer and not a gunsmith woodworker.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/2150632-Update-fixing-a-wrist-on-a-Savage-219-now-a-need-to-not-a-want-to?highlight=cracked+stock
Rob
- Location
- Western Manitoba
After gluing up that crack, likely want to carefully inspect fit of that wood to that metal - will be some uneven fitting to cause that from recoil of firing, unless the stock was struck by something else?
I am interested to hear ideas how to glue that - I have tried several, with several different glues and epoxies - always end up with a "crack line" that is visible after the repair. Had read that some glues can not tolerate "glue starved joint" - has to be some of it left to actually glue pieces together - so clamping to very tight, squeezes too much out - does not stick very well.
I also have some like that, were repaired with glue or epoxy, then vertical dowels or threaded pins installed - to reinforce that repair - should not really be necessary if glue/epoxy truly holds - might be a "belt and braces" approach.
I am interested to hear ideas how to glue that - I have tried several, with several different glues and epoxies - always end up with a "crack line" that is visible after the repair. Had read that some glues can not tolerate "glue starved joint" - has to be some of it left to actually glue pieces together - so clamping to very tight, squeezes too much out - does not stick very well.
I also have some like that, were repaired with glue or epoxy, then vertical dowels or threaded pins installed - to reinforce that repair - should not really be necessary if glue/epoxy truly holds - might be a "belt and braces" approach.
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- Location
- Saskatchewan
I'd remove the stock from the gun, dissolve any oil as suggested with acetone if necessary, let dry, then drill a small hole lengthwise down the crack from the hidden surface where the stock contacts the receiver. Moisten, then inject the gorilla glue in the hole so it squeezes into the crack full length, and force it further into the crack with compressed air. Trim off the glue foam with a blade, clamp and trim again after it dries. Sand and apply an appropriate finish to match the original.
Get the stock off first. Figure out why it is splitting. Is there a wedge shaped metal piece where the wood meets the metal. If so, try to relieve this by removing wood. If gun oil has seeped in the crack and stained it dark, soak in a solvent like acetone to draw some of the oil out. If it’s dry clean wood, gently try to pry the joint open a bit. I use regular carpenters glue and if I can’t get into the crack easily, I use a syringe. Clamp it shut with clamps or electrical tape or bands. Squeeze out the glue from the joint as much as possible and wipe it off as best you can with a wet rag before it starts to dry. The joint, if done right, should be stronger than just wood. If you are really worried about it splitting again, run a brass screw into the joint once it’s clamped. It can be cut off and filed flush after.
As above,
If this is the only one you're doing electrical tape, elastic bands etc to hold it together after gluing will be fine.
Or get yourself set up for future repairs.
I've also mix 50% acetone/50% Gorilla glue inside a syringe. Thin enough to flow through the needle. Inject into cracks till it flows out. The Acetone/GG mixture does not expand as much as straight GG. But care must be taken to wipe off any glue from stock before wrapping with surgical tubing.
This method works very well on other wood products too.
As stated will be stronger than the wood itself.
If this is the only one you're doing electrical tape, elastic bands etc to hold it together after gluing will be fine.
Or get yourself set up for future repairs.
I've also mix 50% acetone/50% Gorilla glue inside a syringe. Thin enough to flow through the needle. Inject into cracks till it flows out. The Acetone/GG mixture does not expand as much as straight GG. But care must be taken to wipe off any glue from stock before wrapping with surgical tubing.
This method works very well on other wood products too.
As stated will be stronger than the wood itself.
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^^^^ I use pretty much the same system as HDude, except I use a Cyanoacrylate (Krazy, Super) glue as I have found any type of filler, epoxy or expanding glue will leave a visible line.I would remove the stock and do one side at a time, put a piece of packing tape lengthwise over the crack firmly rubbed down and gently use an exacto knife to cut the tape along the crack.
Spread the crack apart like it is in pics and inject glue into the crack where you sliced the tape. The reason for the slit tape is to prevent bleed over on the wood.
The Cling, Saran wrap is wrapped around the crack/stock if using tape or (surgical tubing-best) to make removal easier, or can skip if using a clamp with padding. The reason I use the wrap is that surgical tube can cause momentarily funny discoloration of the stain/finish.
Then when both cracks are done, use red lipstick on the metal mating surfaces to find out the reason for these breaks.
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Use the Military fix
Clean the crack, drill a hole through the crack the size of a small long brass screw
Add lots of glue and then screw in the long brass screw
When it comes tight, stop and cut off the rest of the screw flush with the wood
Let the glue dry.
You could dremel a bit of the top of the screw and fill it with wood filler
Clean the crack, drill a hole through the crack the size of a small long brass screw
Add lots of glue and then screw in the long brass screw
When it comes tight, stop and cut off the rest of the screw flush with the wood
Let the glue dry.
You could dremel a bit of the top of the screw and fill it with wood filler
This stuff from Lee Valley is good for hairline cracks and wicks into the crack but you only have a five second set time to work with. Not for the crack your dealing with there.
View attachment 549462
View attachment 549462
Very Simple repair ,,,,,,,,, slightly open crack with small tool & degrease ( brake fluid works). When good & dry
put in carpenter's glue . Wrap tight with surgical tubeing ( or whatever you have). A day latter remove & clean
up glue that came out of crack.
put in carpenter's glue . Wrap tight with surgical tubeing ( or whatever you have). A day latter remove & clean
up glue that came out of crack.
Long walker has the correct fix
As for glue not the best glue expands especially Corolla glue
Expoy works best because expoxy sticks to each other you need very little
The best glue to buy a bit tricky to find but by far the best and that is glue that is used to make acoustic guitars here’s why it’s viscosity is that of water so it will flow everywhere it becomes active when air contacts it there is nothing better it works on 200$ guitars and 20,000$ guitars
As for glue not the best glue expands especially Corolla glue
Expoy works best because expoxy sticks to each other you need very little
The best glue to buy a bit tricky to find but by far the best and that is glue that is used to make acoustic guitars here’s why it’s viscosity is that of water so it will flow everywhere it becomes active when air contacts it there is nothing better it works on 200$ guitars and 20,000$ guitars
