Working up a load for a .44 Revolver

Skinny 1950

Skinny 1950

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I just bought a Pietta 1851 Colt steel frame in .44 cal from the EE and would like to take it to the range this weekend. I have some BP substitute (Jim Shockey's Yukon Gold) and a Colt pattern flask with a 15 grain spout,with the BP substitute I get 10 grains weight as the substitute is lighter than real BP. The label on the powder container says that the substitute should be used as a volume for volume replacement for black powder. Does anyone know what a normal load for a .44 should be using real black powder???If I know that then I can figure out how much substitute to use, also should I use a wad under the ball or just lightly compress the powder with the ball........thanks:confused:

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.44 revolver

greetings- in both my original remington and a richland arms copy i use 25 grains of fffg topped with 2 felt wads lubed with bore butter/crisco mix and ball seated gently on top. it's still not at the chamber mouth but close enough to work well. more powder is just a waste. regards, bill
 
I've got a .44 Pietta. I use 25 to 28 grains. My flask has a 25 spout and I've got a Lee dipper for a 38-55 that holds 28 grains. I don't use wads and I use a .454 or .459 ball. If I pack the chamber tops with grease( I concock'd a beewax / vegtable lard mix ) then I can get an extra cylinder before it gets to the must clean stage. I use Bore Butter on the barrel but I find it too thin for packing the cylinder tops with( kinda expensive compared to lard as well; although it smells nicer). That revolver shoots really good accuracy wise though.
 
The standard starter load for a .44 BP revolver with steel frame is 24gr of FFFG with a .454 pure lead ball. Most guys (including me) then cover the end of the ball in each chamber with a smear of crisco to lower the chances of a chain fire.

With any of these guns, after a range trip you need to detail strip and clean the gun cwith hot soapy water. After that, I heat the parts in the oven on the lowest setting with the door partially open for 30 minutes (not the grips!) and then dissolve some olive oil, crisco, tallow or any commercial BP lube onto the still-hot parts to season them. Wipe off the excess and re-assemble. Coat the exterior lightly with a BP friendly oil like ballistol or similar prior to storage.
 
Claven2 said:
The standard starter load for a .44 BP revolver with steel frame is 24gr of FFFG with a .454 pure lead ball. Most guys (including me) then cover the end of the ball in each chamber with a smear of crisco to lower the chances of a chain fire.

With any of these guns, after a range trip you need to detail strip and clean the gun cwith hot soapy water. After that, I heat the parts in the oven on the lowest setting with the door partially open for 30 minutes (not the grips!) and then dissolve some olive oil, crisco, tallow or any commercial BP lube onto the still-hot parts to season them. Wipe off the excess and re-assemble. Coat the exterior lightly with a BP friendly oil like ballistol or similar prior to storage.
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I agree with everything quoted above and will add that I use a round paper wad .430 too help seal the powder between the round ball to prevent change fires. I also use liquid ALOX to coat my round balls for lubrication. I have tried criso and lube butter and others but ALOX works well and saves time. check out this link http://www.trackofthewolf.com/
 
Thanks for the help on this...I am going up to the range tomorrow and I only have 30 balls to shoot. Have to order a mold for .455 to make some more.
Thanks kgs for the link to Track of the Wolf they are really good at getting the stuff to their customers in Canada...I bought some powder flasks and a mold for my .36 Navy and had really good service on that order.
 
If you get a mould, first measure your chambers - some are .452 and others are .454.

Also, if you use a BP substitute, your grain measurement should be VOLUMETRIC - not by weight. Weight applies only to real BP.

Alox is fine for BP substitutes, but do not use Alox if you use real BP as it will turn to hard goo and cake inside the barrel when mixed with BP residue.

Some guys use wads, I personally never do for two reasons;

1) Wads are just one more thing to buy, bring and remember to use.
2) I'm always paranoid one will get stuck in the barrel and interfere with the next shot.

I do use wads in rifles and in BP cartridges where the pressures are higher and velocities faster, but generally not in a revolver. They probably work fine, but I've never felt their absence.

When loading the cylinders, just seat the ball until you get firm resistance on the loading lever. Don't over-do it as you don't want to compress the charge - just eliminate the air gap. It's normal that the cylinder will shave a little lead off the ball.
 
I was all set to go to the range but the cylinder lock-up spring broke so there is nothing holding the cylinder in place...could be dangerous. Now I am looking for some good screwdrivers so I can fix this gun and others. Any one know who can supply gun smithing tools. Both of my BP revolvers are out of commission now and I can't seem to get any action out of the dealer so I would like to do it myself and save some grief.
 
Just get a good interchangeable hex bit driver and grind your own screwdriver bits. Better, more flexible, and cheaper than purpose-made gunsmithing screwdrivers.
 
Claven2 said:
Just get a good interchangeable hex bit driver and grind your own screwdriver bits. Better, more flexible, and cheaper than purpose-made gunsmithing screwdrivers.
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Did that and had the gun apart in 5 minutes the lock-trigger spring is broken,sent to Marstar for replacement kit. Thanks for the help with this.
 
Alox is fine for BP substitutes, but do not use Alox if you use real BP as it will turn to hard goo and cake inside the barrel when mixed with BP residue.


Thanks for that tip Claven2
 
Just a small correction to someone's earlier post. BP as well as all BP substitutes are measured in VOLUMETRIC grains and not by weight. The Hogdon web site was very particular on this matter in regards to their Pyrodex and 777. And some powders, 777 for example, will call for a reduction in volume to achieve the equivalent power.

I've seen some replacement springs for that two leaf cylinder bolt and trigger return that are formed from round spring wire. If you're a handy sort you could replicate the shape out of hobby shop music wire and a few minutes of your time and get shooting while waiting for the new two finger leaf spring to arrive. I've got a picture of what they look like but I don't want to bother with hosting it at Photobucket. PM me your email and I'll send you the pic so you know what you're trying to make if you're interested.
 
Thanks BCRider for the idea about the spring, that is a good one and I am sure it would work but I am not in a rush and the kit that I am getting has a new hammer,cylinder lock and pawl as well as the spring. The screws were buggered buy a previous owner so I am fixing them up as well. I am going to replace as many parts as I can to help with reliability.:cheers:
 
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