X95 lights
- Thread starter shoota
- Start date
I have a Streamlight Pro TAc HLX 1000 lumens with pressure pad - I have it mounted offset in a 1 o clock position using a Magpul rail light mount . I did this so that I didn't have to remove the right handguard panel but also have the light closer to 12 o clock position.
The pressure pad is mounted at the 9 clock position to the picatinny rail there.
Let me know if you are willing to share a picture of the setup.
Yes no problem - I will take some photos and upload this evening so you can see the set up.
TV-PressPass
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Mountains, Alberta
Surefire m300 scout in a gear-sector offset on the right side that puts the light bezel nestled in right below the top rail. Tapeswitch runs across to an adhesive patch tucked against the rail on the left side, right below the front BUIS essentially.
Dealers?
SquidMeister
CGN Regular
- Location
- New Soviet Albertistan
INFORCE WML Gen 2 at the 9 o lock rail for thumb access.
Chargerguy
CGN frequent flyer
I’d love to see a pic of this as well.
Ah, thanks for the reminder. I totally forgot.
Ok here's the photo - I just have to revise what I said originally - the light is on the left side at 11 o'clock, not the right side at 1 o'clock (that's my other gun).
Just took this now, fresh off the presses.
Why did I run the tape switch and light on the same side? I don't want to remove too many of those panels. I had a Magpul RVG grip on the bottom as well but this thing is too short in my view for a grip - it's already nice and ergonomic so I put the panel back on, and moved the RVG to my newly acquired Ruger PCC (which definitely needs the front grip - for me anyways due to weak Mr. Burns arms).
So I know some people don't like the rubber 2-piece picatinny holder - I had originally put it in backwards (didn't know) and wasn't crazy about it popping off the rails periodically. Actually read the instructions and reversed it - getting the two rubber pieces on the rail is easy (it comes with the slats to go into the picatinny grooves) without the light affixed. Getting the light on those two pieces while the two pieces were affixed to the rail was a pain in the butt, even though it is supposed to slide in each side. My problem was if I had both sides of the rubber rail piece connected to the tape switch, I wasn't able to get those pieces on the picatinny rail - it's almost like with the tape switch in those two pieces, the flexibility of the bottom of those pieces was gone. I eventually found an unconventional way to do it, after 25 minutes. Those two pieces are not two-way sliding in terms of the tape switch - on each side, there's a "stop" where the edges round towards the inside (think of the capital letter D). Now it's nice and snug.
The Magpul rail, I am aware, I installed upside down - in order to get it to mount onto the top rail rather than the side. What I have is the "right" version. If I had the "left" version, I could have mounted it with the 1'olock orientation like I do in my other gun. The Magpul mount comes with rings as well but I just tossed those since the flashlight screws in directly into the Magpul mount. I zip tied the slack on the cable.
The tape switch doesn't interfere with the charging handle in any way.
The photo I took is attached. If you need another angle, I can take one.
Ok here's the photo - I just have to revise what I said originally - the light is on the left side at 11 o'clock, not the right side at 1 o'clock (that's my other gun).
Just took this now, fresh off the presses.
Why did I run the tape switch and light on the same side? I don't want to remove too many of those panels. I had a Magpul RVG grip on the bottom as well but this thing is too short in my view for a grip - it's already nice and ergonomic so I put the panel back on, and moved the RVG to my newly acquired Ruger PCC (which definitely needs the front grip - for me anyways due to weak Mr. Burns arms).
So I know some people don't like the rubber 2-piece picatinny holder - I had originally put it in backwards (didn't know) and wasn't crazy about it popping off the rails periodically. Actually read the instructions and reversed it - getting the two rubber pieces on the rail is easy (it comes with the slats to go into the picatinny grooves) without the light affixed. Getting the light on those two pieces while the two pieces were affixed to the rail was a pain in the butt, even though it is supposed to slide in each side. My problem was if I had both sides of the rubber rail piece connected to the tape switch, I wasn't able to get those pieces on the picatinny rail - it's almost like with the tape switch in those two pieces, the flexibility of the bottom of those pieces was gone. I eventually found an unconventional way to do it, after 25 minutes. Those two pieces are not two-way sliding in terms of the tape switch - on each side, there's a "stop" where the edges round towards the inside (think of the capital letter D). Now it's nice and snug.
The Magpul rail, I am aware, I installed upside down - in order to get it to mount onto the top rail rather than the side. What I have is the "right" version. If I had the "left" version, I could have mounted it with the 1'olock orientation like I do in my other gun. The Magpul mount comes with rings as well but I just tossed those since the flashlight screws in directly into the Magpul mount. I zip tied the slack on the cable.
The tape switch doesn't interfere with the charging handle in any way.
The photo I took is attached. If you need another angle, I can take one.
Attachments
PinaKaleada
CGN Regular
- Location
- South of most
^ need to know if those front sights are accessible, seems like they would be. A pic would be great!
Don't need to provide a photo, because I know 100% that the front sites are accessible, because I deliberately mounted light mount in that location so that there is ample clearance for the front site. There is about 1.75 inches clearance.
PinaKaleada
CGN Regular
- Location
- South of most
^ I have a light that mounts on the foregrip(plastic). I always feel like mounting onto the metal rail would be more sturdy. Good to know this is possible.
You could mount directly on either side of the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock metal rail, and have the tape switch on the other side but for me I found find that too much protrusion and stuff gets all caught in my gun cabinet (that's another reason I have both the light and the tape switch on the same side).
Similarly originally I actually taped my tape switch to the removable hand guard cover, but that just looked kind of dumb and I wasn't sure whether over time the adhesive would degrade.
If you are using the Streamlight Protac that I have, the tape switch can also be zip tied, though it's a bit more messy as there isn't a whole lot of space that isn't part of the pressure switch, to secure it down with a zip tie.
I am sure with other brands of lights, there are other mounting options that may be better.
One thing I haven't looked into is whether I can buy a higher red dot mount to put the red dot sight, so that I can actually mount the flashlight at 12 o'clock in the front and it wouldn't interfere with the sight. That would then free up both side panels.
I am pretty happy with my set up since functionally and ergonomically it works fine.
PinaKaleada
CGN Regular
- Location
- South of most
For myself I used to like tape switch but as soon as you use your gear rough you’d start to have ND with your lights especially shooting at awkward positions. I only run 11o clock clicky tail caps now. Way better water resistant, durability and you won’t ND.
My 2 cents of course
My 2 cents of course
