yet another Mosin Nagant question

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Goozyman

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Could someone please explain the diffwernece between the M38, M44 and the M91\30?

I have searched and cannot find the answer

thanks
 
The M91/30 is the full length version
the M38 and M44 are both carbine (shorter version)
the differences between M38 and M44 are the sling attachements, the removable vs foldable bayonet
 
so for general range shooting and the occasional Deer hunt, which would you pick.
I would like the long version but im thinking it would be better to get the carbine [non bayonet]for the woods.
are any of these restricted?
 
Goozyman said:
so for general range shooting and the occasional Deer hunt, which would you pick.
I would like the long version but im thinking it would be better to get the carbine [non bayonet]for the woods.
are any of these restricted?
Click to expand...

You'll get better long range accuracy from the full length rifle if that matters to you.
None of them are restricted.
 
i think i may go fo rthe Full length one.
I wonder how hard it would be to get a "period correct" looking aftermarket scope/mount for one of these things..
 
None of them are restricted.

The bayonet on the M44 is removable. Finding an M38 is harder than finding an M44. Also, most M38s you find will have seen combat in WWII, most M44s will not, so the level of wear and tear is different.

Keep in mind, the "carbines" are hardly carbines. They're the length of a stock C7A1 (aka 1 metre long). If you feel like challenging yourself when it comes to long range precision, get a 91/30 and shoot out to 1000 yards, otherwise stick with a carbine.

Also, get a recoil pad of some sort. It will let you put out more than 30 rounds without leaving a large bruise.

/edit also, a PU scope kit is generally 250+ USD.

I'm of two minds on that subject aswell. If you're going to shell out 300-400 $ on a scope to convert a non-sniper MN, you're not keeping the rifle "original". If you're not keeping the rifle in its original shape, why spend $300-400 on top of the price of the rifle to get an inferior deer/plinker rifle? Pop an ATI stock on it, get an ATI gunsmith scope mount, and get a proper bent bolt job done. Then you have yourself a $300 (+ cost of a scope, which could be as little as $30) deer/plinker with a very rugged action and the flexibility of having a scope rail instead of a proprietary mount.

If you want an original sniper for collecting purposes, take the time to research the scopes/mounts used and hunt for an ex-sniper and convert it back to its original form. If you find a MN Sniper for sale with mount/scope it's more than likely a reproduction, in which case refer to the above paragraph :p
 
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Heh, the muzzle blast surprised the hell out of my friends. "Hey, step off to the side a bit so you can see the fireball" "what, in this light?" .BANG. "Holy ####, that's like, a foot long AFTER the bayonet!"
 
I did the same thing as you're doing - Got a correctly marked accurate mosin 91/30, then mounted a PU scope assembly. Once I've worked out some kinks it should make a great deer rifle :)
 
Couple things to keep in mind. If you're hunting in the scrub you'll find toting the 91/30 a bit of a PITA. In open country or from a stand the length is a non issue but mine tends to stay at home in favour of my 38. I find I can bring it up faster in close brush and on a long walk you'll appreciate the weight difference. Also consider that the 44s tend to shoot best with the bayonet extended. You'll also wand to hunt down a set of the little buckles that attach the sling to the stock. The last couple rifles I ordered from P&S militaria didn't have 'em.
 
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