YouTube Scope Mounting

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Leavenworth

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Hi Fellas
I have friend that has mounted a scope for me in the past but I don’t want to bother him with another one as he’s very busy and I need to learn how to do it myself . I have 2 or 3 to do . I want to do it right .

I can post the exact scopes and to what rifle they are possibly going on if that helps . I need to mount scopes on 2 .22 CZ bolt actions and possibly switch a scope out on Remington 700

Do you have a good recommendation on You Tube videos where someone does a great job of walking you through the process . I think I have all the tools to do it from Wheeler .
Thank You !
Leavenworth
 
I started to use a plumb level from the ceiling, as been finding the top of scope turrets or caps are not always flat for a bubble level. Plus I keep knocking my starrett pocket level off.
 
Leavenworth said:
Hi Fellas
...
I need to mount scopes on 2 .22 CZ bolt actions ...
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Be aware that for some years, CZ .22 had EITHER 11 mm Euro dovetails OR 3/8" North American size - they are not the same. Was posted on CGN and on other websites how to measure the difference. North American size is measured at the BOTTOM of the dovetail - where it is narrowest. Euro size measured across the TOP of the dovetail - where it is widest. North American 3/8" dovetail will be about 1/2" (12.5 + mm) across their top, whereas Euro ones will be 11 mm. Slopes on side are different as well - I might have it backwards - Euro dovetails use 60 degree slopes - North American use 45 degree slopes. I used Warne brand rings - they have a "dot" on the clamp - up for one and down for other - they are advertised to work for EITHER European 11 mm OR North American 3/8", but have to know which way to put that "dot".
 
Put a bipod on it so the rifle can stand on its own and you can shim it to level it. Use a plumb bob at the far end of the room where you can align the reticle with gravity, after you’ve figured out where you want it to get the right eye relief.
 
Potashminer Thank You for the explanation ! Would you have a link to those discussions as I’m positive I get it !
Leavenworth
Potashminer said:
Be aware that for some years, CZ .22 had EITHER 11 mm Euro dovetails OR 3/8" North American size - they are not the same. Was posted on CGN and on other websites how to measure the difference. North American size is measured at the BOTTOM of the dovetail - where it is narrowest. Euro size measured across the TOP of the dovetail - where it is widest. North American 3/8" dovetail will be about 1/2" (12.5 + mm) across their top, whereas Euro ones will be 11 mm. Slopes on side are different as well - I might have it backwards - Euro dovetails use 60 degree slopes - North American use 45 degree slopes. I used Warne brand rings - they have a "dot" on the clamp - up for one and down for other - they are advertised to work for EITHER European 11 mm OR North American 3/8", but have to know which way to put that "dot".
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Leavenworth said:
Potashminer Thank You for the explanation ! Would you have a link to those discussions as I’m positive I get it !
Leavenworth
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Alot of dovetail rings are dual purpose. Like BKL can be used for both or Burris will come with a seperate clamp for 11mm dovetails. Some you can flip the clamp around.
 
Anything that makes it simple for this guy is best ! As I really want to get things right and know that the scopes are mounted correctly and not be chasing endless rabbit holes thinking it is my shooting or ammunition ( right ammo for the rifle ,what it likes ) only to find out that I dont have the scope mounted properly !!
Maybe there are specific CZ 457 scope mounting YouTube Videos that would be a great tutorial .
Thank You !
Leavenworth
 
Leavenworth said:
Anything that makes it simple for this guy is best ! As I really want to get things right and know that the scopes are mounted correctly and not be chasing endless rabbit holes thinking it is my shooting or ammunition ( right ammo for the rifle ,what it likes ) only to find out that I dont have the scope mounted properly !!
Maybe there are specific CZ 457 scope mounting YouTube Videos that would be a great tutorial .
Thank You !
Leavenworth
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Scope mounting is universal. It's like changing a flat tire. The only difference is the size and amount of lug nuts. But the process is the same.

Make sure the rifle is leveled, make sure your eye relief is proper and make sure the reticle is straight.
 
I never really understood the level on a scope so it sits straight. Because your rifle has to be 100 % level first and your gun vice, table etc.

I point it to the ground and line up the scope with the barrel and confirm it along the way. I have received rifles with mounted scopes that were so crooked, it was almost funny.
 
fritzhanzel said:
I never really understood the level on a scope so it sits straight. Because your rifle has to be 100 % level first and your gun vice, table etc.

I point it to the ground and line up the scope with the barrel and confirm it along the way. I have received rifles with mounted scopes that were so crooked, it was almost funny.
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My FIL gave me his fathers Savage 99. His equilibrium clearly was off being on ships his whole life. But it was super crooked, bagged a few deers but the rings screws were rusted in the rings, so had to be like that since scope was mounted in the 70s.
 
Here's a short and useful article on 11mm vs 3/8 dovetails with diagrams showing dimensions and the different angles, from Optics Trade EU:
https://www.optics-trade.eu/blog/11-mm-and-3-8-dovetails/

As already mentioned above, there are several brands of rimfire dovetail mount rings on the market with flip-able (reversible) clamps, made for this very purpose of matching the rail to the clamp shape. You can see the difference on the clamp edge when looking closely at its shape, and sometimes as also mentioned above there is a dot marking the difference on the side of the clamp.
 
I have installed many scopes for my own use - some will disagree with this: Imagine there is a line down centre of your barrel's bore - you want to install your scope so that the vertical cross hair would pass down through that imaginary line - so you want your scope centered and "square" to that barrel. If the cross hairs are canted - tilted - then as you elevate for range, you will be pointing the bore further and further off to one side or other.

In practical terms - I try to set the vertical cross hair to seem as if would pass down through centre of firing pin or cocking piece on rear of the bolt - as you move your eye out of the "eye box", will tend to see ring of black - so keep the bright clear centered - to keep sight of that cross hair, and keep it in the middle. I have luxury of various cradles and padded vise to hold rifle when I install a scope - so I can let go of rifle to fuss with scope to get it lined up. I had read that some just take cardboard box and cut "V" in each end - balance their rifle in that - to get their scope "straight". For some number of years I have been using an inch-pounds torque wrench - I look up specs on Internet to find what inch-pounds does maker call for - I do not use "rule of thumb" or one number for any brand / installation - look up what the maker calls for. That goes for screws into the receiver to hold scope base, cross clamp screw and cap screws. I do put one drop of BLUE thread locker into cleaned out threads in receiver to anchor the scope bases - I have NEVER used any form of thread locker on the cross screw or the cap screws.

I once owned a Schultz and Larson "free rifle" target .22 gun - set up for 50 metre bullseye - front and rear aperture sights were significantly to one side of barrel - so it can work - have taller rear sight to accommodate range (trajectory) and left to right convergence to have Point of Aim equal Point of Impact. However, double the range, now will have Point of Impact as far over as the rear sight is - triple or quadruple the range and Point of Impact keeps going further and further from Point of Aim - because sight is not "in line" with the bore. Will be same with you line of sight through scope - if you have installed cross hairs to be canted, and then you cant the rifle when you aim - you will get cross hair aimed at one point - and at one range is possible to get Point of Impact there - but at any other distance - closer or further - the Point of Impact will not be at the Point of Aim.
 
Pro Tip:

the best way to level a scope is to put a precision steel block between scope and receiver and rotate the block until it pushes the scope away. As long as one keeps the edge of the block flat against receiver and scope, the scope will be perfectly parallel.

Most scopes are flat under the turret. Obviously it doesnt work with a receiver where you cant find a flat surface in reach. Best are flat top rails for this
 
Leavenworth said:
Hi Fellas
I have friend that has mounted a scope for me in the past but I don’t want to bother him with another one as he’s very busy and I need to learn how to do it myself . I have 2 or 3 to do . I want to do it right .

I can post the exact scopes and to what rifle they are possibly going on if that helps . I need to mount scopes on 2 .22 CZ bolt actions and possibly switch a scope out on Remington 700

Do you have a good recommendation on You Tube videos where someone does a great job of walking you through the process . I think I have all the tools to do it from Wheeler .
Thank You !
Leavenworth
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lots og good info BUT when scope is on with rings not tight look at a SPOT on the wall....close your eyes ...throw up the gun as if you were going to shoot the SPOT...open your eyes ...if you do not have full field of view move scope in or out {eye relief ] REPEAT TILL IT FITS YOUR STANCE AND EYES ...a gun scope combo that fits well shoots well... don
 
Thank You Biologist
Leavenworth
Biologist said:
Here's a short and useful article on 11mm vs 3/8 dovetails with diagrams showing dimensions and the different angles, from Optics Trade EU:
https://www.optics-trade.eu/blog/11-mm-and-3-8-dovetails/

As already mentioned above, there are several brands of rimfire dovetail mount rings on the market with flip-able (reversible) clamps, made for this very purpose of matching the rail to the clamp shape. You can see the difference on the clamp edge when looking closely at its shape, and sometimes as also mentioned above there is a dot marking the difference on the side of the clamp.
Click to expand...
 
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