Zeroing a scope moa required?

How many moa of the available adjustment did u use zeroing @100?

There just seem to be so many variables that could impact the moa you needed to adjust it seems hard to generalize.

Did you find yourself close to maxed out in one direction (edit: axis) or the other? What is the problem?
 
Used up 45 moa of 59 available to zero @ 100 yards.
From previous experience I should be under 10 moa with same gun.

Wondering if i should be returning the scope
 
Yikes,

I have only experience with two scopes, but the only time I ever had to adjust so close to the end of my adjustment range was when my scope mounts were loose and shifted everything over I went a whole week before I figured it out, lol. If you only have 14moa of slack to compensate that seems pretty unacceptable to me.

Interested to see what some of the more knowledgeable people than me here have to say.
 
Was the scope in the middle of its travel before starting? Last scope I bought I put on was dialed down about 20 MOA. Brand new sealed in box. I put it on a 20 MOA rail and it was already very close to sighted.

What kind of scope?
 
Further to this i reinstalled the rail backwards withthe same result then flipped it back to the original direction once more same zero.
Also reversed the rings front and back.
Added 3 layers of electrical tape under the scope in the rear clamp in order to get it down where it needs to be for now.
 
Was the scope in the middle of its travel before starting? Last scope I bought I put on was dialed down about 20 MOA. Brand new sealed in box. I put it on a 20 MOA rail and it was already very close to sighted.

What kind of scope?

This would be my starting point also. This is pretty common when taking a scope off 1 rifled and putting it on another.

I usually do this in a set of v blocks but can be done on the rifle.

Loosen off your rings slightly, then sight on a target at maybe 10 yards or less away. While focused on the POI of your crosshairs, slowly rotate the scope in the rings. You will probably find the POI moving in an elliptical arc away from and back to the starting point. This is caused by the previous adjustments made to the scope.

Adjust the clickers on the scope 1 at a time until the crosshairs no longer wanders away from the original POI. Your scope is now back to default “zero” and ready to be sighted in at the range.

This is a technique I use every time I mount a scope (new or used) on a rifle.

Mike
 
gave the scope a run through on this method above from MikeFollowsno1 to no avail.

so I ended up returning this scope.
it was a cabela's covenant 6-24 sfp.
took a while to get it returned as every guy I talked to said yea just take it to the counter and the girl at the counter did not want to let me return it.
had to get a manager there before she would do it. then she tried to charge me the non sale price difference for the replacement exchange scope... maybe she was new.

anyways this one turned out great, much stronger clicks on adjustment, smoother magnification changes.

can shoot 300m from a .22lr using high velocity ammo. using turret adjustment. so 40moa is available from zero @50m.
moved up and down and it tracks well for distance. and in a vertical line.
the reticle is much more enjoyable than the multi-X that I had been using previously.
I see the smokey haze appear around 18x and nearing 24 it gets not great.
but when installed on a Remington 597 .22 its a great super budget setup. I plan to use this to shoot production class of CRPS events.
 
I only had one new rifle/new scope set up that was basically zeroed on install, never had anything close to that before.
New 308 Browning AB3 and a Leopold VX1 3-9, mounted it, went to range and bore sighted, looked good and on paper, fired 3 rounds and all it needed was 3 clics horizontal to zero. Bought a lottery ticket right after that lol.
 
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