I zeroed my M14 today, but I think Barney needs to give it a good going over.
I put my best scope on it, HiLux 4-16x.
I first zeroed at 30 meters. Once I had that, I put the M14 Certification on the target. Just had to do it.
I then attempted to zero at 100 meters. Hmm, it was a bit windy, over a flat field, but not a good grouping.
As you can see on the right, the shots are all over the place. as I tried to get it to the zero. The three on the left are as close as I could get it. The outer line is 2 inches.
I then moved to 300meters to see the drop. Notice I use grided flip chart paper. It's one inch grids, so real easy to see how far down. I can also see the scale in the scope so I can match up the milldots to the scale at various powers.
300m is tough even at 16x as the ground heat was brutal. Hence the large numbers.
So the drop from 100 to 300 is about 15 inches, 17 clicks, which is where I left the zeroing.
Too bad Barney's clinic is in sept...
I put my best scope on it, HiLux 4-16x.
I first zeroed at 30 meters. Once I had that, I put the M14 Certification on the target. Just had to do it.
I then attempted to zero at 100 meters. Hmm, it was a bit windy, over a flat field, but not a good grouping.
As you can see on the right, the shots are all over the place. as I tried to get it to the zero. The three on the left are as close as I could get it. The outer line is 2 inches.
I then moved to 300meters to see the drop. Notice I use grided flip chart paper. It's one inch grids, so real easy to see how far down. I can also see the scale in the scope so I can match up the milldots to the scale at various powers.
300m is tough even at 16x as the ground heat was brutal. Hence the large numbers.
So the drop from 100 to 300 is about 15 inches, 17 clicks, which is where I left the zeroing.
Too bad Barney's clinic is in sept...
