Cast Bullets
- Thread starter 1899
- Start date
I've used 35 Whelen and 450 Marlin on deer, both impressive. 35 cal 250gr slugs from an LBT Flat Nose mold at about 2000 fps worked at 50yds and out to about 150yds. I also used 300gr and 405gr Flat Nose slugs from RCBS molds flying at about 1900 and 1600fps respectively from a 450 Marlin. The 1895 Marlin is nice to carry in the bush and comes to the shoulder almost without thinking. The terminal performance of large diameter cast slugs on game is, in my opinion, superior to what I've personally witnessed from 270, 30-30 and 308 jacketed bullets. The cast slugs, even when using soft cast (11 BHN), give full penetration and none have travelled more than about 30 yds. I wish I could tell you what the expansion was like but have not been able to recover a slug. I can tell you entrance and exit wounds are very impressive.
In my experience, it's not a big deal to get flat base bullets to shoot in the 1600-1700 fps range with no leading whatsoever. Bullet hardness counts for something, but the sizing of he bullet is the most critical issue to leading. Cast bullets need to be at least .001" larger than the groove diameter, and often .002" is even better. Bullets that are undersize will lead almost every time whether they are gas checked or not.
The other factor that contributes to leading that we often overlook is powder selection. At low velocity the fast powders do OK. But as velocity increases the slower powders tend to cause less leading at the same velocity than the faster powders. Switching to a slower powder has fixed my leading problems a couple times now. IMR4895 works great with cast in the 9.3x57, but IMR4198 leaded like crazy at the same velocity. Similar results in 45-70.
- Location
- Golden Lake
I've used an old style Coleman stove and I've used an open fire.
I used one of the naptha type stoves for melting scrap lead and wheel weights and it worked fine. It's not the easiest heat source to use for casting because it's hard to regulate the temperature. The gas pressure keeps bleeding off and you need to pump up the fuel pressure. It's hard to regulate evenly but it can be done. Propane is easier. The quality of your bullets depends on how well you can regulate the temperature.
I strongly disagree
Not sure which part you are disagreeing to , but in my experience temperature is very important in making a weight consistent bullet. I have used the old coleman the lpg coleman and electric pots . They all have problems keeping the temp. consistent as the lead level goes down. My solution is to use large pots , and a thermometer . I try to keep the temp. within 5 degrees F. As the lead level goes down , I add a few sprue's to keep the temp consistent. I am dipping for BPCR bullets 500+ gr. bullet , and am looking for + or - one tenth of a grain.
For cowboy action bullets , I bottom pour . And if it sort of looks like a bullet I shoot it LOL.
Why would the temperature be critical?
Once you get a good fill and no wrinkles, the same mould cavity will produce the same weight and shape bullets regardless of the temperature.
In my experience the only thing that influences the bullet weight is dirt between the mould halves and breaking the sprue too early or too late.
Please explain why you think a hotter alloy results in a different outcome?
I started casting for a 7x57 1908 Brazilian I had for military matches. They were only 100yd matches, so they didn't need a lot of power, just enough to reach 100yds. I used 8gr of Green dot and a 130gr Lee bullet. Got lots of laughs at the shoots, as mine sounded like a .22, but consistently shot 1-1/2 to 2" depending on the wind. I didn't have a clue about reading wind at the time. I tried it with my 22-250 for gophers with a Lyman mould, it worked well in an 1885. I did some of the Lee 7mm bullets up for my 7-08 to use for chickens and rabbits when out hunting, worked well. Then I bought a 32-30 Schuetzen rifle, and then built a 32-40 for that. Put many thousands of rounds thru those two. And ran some of the .22 bullets in my 218bee. Also have a 300Rook I use 90gr bullets on. Last effort is a 450-400NE 3", in a #1, it makes it very pleasant to shoot, using 5744 in it with 320gr and 400gr bullets at 2050.
Once I get a load sorted out for the Krieghoff in 30R, I will probably get a mould for it and play with cast bullets in it also.
Once I get a load sorted out for the Krieghoff in 30R, I will probably get a mould for it and play with cast bullets in it also.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Yeah, you're way off. Melt temp will change the weight if the finished bullet and even more importantly when the melt gets really hot you start to lose tin. I'm going to go out on a limb and say that you have never cast bullets for BPCR shooting. If you had I think you would know better.
I have a nice Lyman mold that casts a 265 gr Keith bullet for the big Colt.
Loaded to over 1200 fps using H110 and magnum primers in my heavy Sauer single action, it was a very comforting sidekick while guiding forty years ago.
Ted
Loaded to over 1200 fps using H110 and magnum primers in my heavy Sauer single action, it was a very comforting sidekick while guiding forty years ago.
Ted
Yes, I could see that being a very useful application and much easier to manipulate in a tent.I have a nice Lyman mold that casts a 265 gr Keith bullet for the big Colt.
Loaded to over 1200 fps using H110 and magnum primers in my heavy Sauer single action, it was a very comforting sidekick while guiding forty years ago.
Ted
