Bedding the Tikka T3

Crashman

Crashman

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I recently picked up a Tikka T3 Varmint Stainless in 6.5X55 swede. I have installed a Near 20 MOA base and have the Lumley Arms recoil lug and pillars to install and I intend to Devcon bed the action as well. I have done a couple Remingtons and Savages now but never a Tikka. Any suggestions from the more experienced guys out there on how to bed this properly? ANy help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
when you bed a tikka make sure to bed under the recoil lug in such a way as to make sure that it remains as high in the stock as neccessary to maintain full contact with the action, lifting the action up off the recoil lug so there is a space between the lug and the action is not a good thing, especially in anything that hits hard, it creates more leverage and your more likely to bend the recoil lug rather then hold the action/stock in the proper location.
other then that just bed it as per usual.........
 
Crashman said:
I recently picked up a Tikka T3 Varmint Stainless in 6.5X55 swede. I have installed a Near 20 MOA base and have the Lumley Arms recoil lug and pillars to install and I intend to Devcon bed the action as well. I have done a couple Remingtons and Savages now but never a Tikka. Any suggestions from the more experienced guys out there on how to bed this properly? ANy help is greatly appreciated, thanks.
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Please take pictures as you do it so we can see the whole operation Please ;) - i have T3 that i might want to Devcon it too ! :D RJ
 
yodave said:
when you bed a tikka make sure to bed under the recoil lug in such a way as to make sure that it remains as high in the stock as neccessary to maintain full contact with the action, lifting the action up off the recoil lug so there is a space between the lug and the action is not a good thing, especially in anything that hits hard, it creates more leverage and your more likely to bend the recoil lug rather then hold the action/stock in the proper location.
other then that just bed it as per usual.........
Click to expand...

One suggestion I read on 'the fire is to crazy glue the lug to the action while the bedding cures which can then be easily pulled apart after your done.
 
Thanks guys for the suggestions. I was thinking about gluing the lug to the action actually because I was worried about loosing contact area between the lug and action, if you have ever looked at the lug/action interface, there is already what I would consider to be minimal contact area to begin with. This rifle currently has the factory synthetic stock, I plan to do a few mods to it to ensure stiffness and durability, but will likely upgrade the stock next year. All my cash for the rest of this year will be put into powder, primers and bullets. Need some SERIOUS trigger time!
 
Tikka triggers are far from being hard to set... Unless someone severely fooled with it, I doubt you'll spend a lot of time to fine tune it.
 
Baribal said:
Tikka triggers are far from being hard to set... Unless someone severely fooled with it, I doubt you'll spend a lot of time to fine tune it.
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Yes I already lightened it to the lowest setting according to the manual, it breaks at 2 lbs by my scale which is fine for me, but it has just the slightest amount of movement just before the break. Does anyone know how to clean that up?
 
I just finished installing a new recoil lug and pillar bedding my T3 25-06. I had a friend at work make a program in the CNC for the recoil lug. I made the lug .003 wider,.005 higher and made it fit the slot in the
barrel -.001. made it out of steel and had it black oxided before installing. I had the pillars made out of stainless and installed them slightly proud on the bottom.
In the end I was happy with the way the project turned out. I haven't decided on the glass bedding yet.
 
Well, if you're not happy with the creep of your Tikka trigger, I am scared your only option is to install an aftermarket one. In the past, I installed some Jard triggers and trigger kits, but I donno if they are still shipping on this side (but my guess is yes). These trigger kits can be adjusted to a scary 1 lb... and their complete triggers are even better, and have a nice safety that allows you to open the bolt while the gun still in safe mode.
 
It is nice to have all the resources for minor gun projects at work, I was going to post pictures from start to finish but posting pictures on this site is a pain in the a$$. I have my trigger adjusted to 2.25 LBS, it is a very respectable factory trigger. I would not want it any lower then that for hunting.
 
Yes the trigger is very good on my rifle too, just the tiniest hint of creep or movement just before the trigger breaks. It's fine the way it is for now, it is not quite as nice as my Timney and I may eventually upgrade to the Jard but for now it will certainly be as good or better than most other factory triggers.

I will be attempting the bedding next week as this weekend is busy, turkey season just opened this morning and I have to work tomorrow (AFTER I go turkey hunting!) and I am shooting a match on Sunday and I still have to load 100++ rounds for that!
 
If this can be of any interest, I have one of the very early T3 Varmint HB SS received in Canada and I shoot it a lot, it's not bedded and still has the original trigger and it still shoots like when it was new.
 
Yes I hear what you are saying and sometimes I think I do all this work on my rifles just because I can, not because they really require it. However, I have definitely found that pillar and devcon bedding does nothing to hurt the potential of any given rifle and generally helps it a lot. Triggers can be adjusted and played with but I have never tried that yet but might be the next step for me. Sure like these Tikka rifles for an out of the box rifle I don't think there is much wrong with them, other than the stupid aluminum recoil lug.
 
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