S&W 14-2 Trigger job

Zero for the gunsmith cost. Around $15 plus shipping for a Wolff spring kit.

I'd also suggest that if your single action pull is currently at 3.25 lbs that a previous owner already did a full job on it. You might even find that it has a spring kit in it as well. But if these are the numbers for your gun and it's not had any work or parts swapped then a Wolff kit will easily do what you're after.

There's a minimum shipping cost for Wolff. So get together with a few buddies and order up a half dozen spring kits for various guns to spread out the shipping costs. Otherwise the $15 spring kit will end up being more like $50.
 
Epp's trigger work starts at $45, but like BCRider says, that revolver has had a trigger job. 2.5 pounds is too light for a .38 anyway.
Dandy things Wolf spring kits. Downside is that it's a Smith. Smith revolvers require a special tool to change the rebound spring. Easily made if you have a lathe. Just as easy to buy from Brownell's. $19.99 US plus shipping etc. Look at the picture if you want to make one. The rod needs to be a bit under 1/8 then you cut a slot on the end and bend it.
 
You can change the rebound spring with a small screwdriver and 3.25 lbs is about right for a stock worn in 14-2
My 15-3 with stock everything was around 4 lbs from the factory
The older smiths had nicer triggers than the newer ones
 
I'm having Randall Fung do a set of match grips for it, and I want the best trigger performance I can get. Rathur than buy new, I have decided to fix my 14 up !!
 
you can easily change the rebound spring with a small screwdriver. I've removed and replaced a dozen or more, just be careful, but the same goes for the brownells tool.

The wolfe spring kits are very good, and a lighter rebound spring will drop your trigger weight, but if you go too light it will have a slow return in double action shooting. You can make them a bit smoother by polishing the edges of the mainspring with a felt bob and diamond paste to a bright finish and radiusing the edges/corners, but don't put a dip in the edge.

2.5lbs is NOT too light for single action target work, and you could go lighter if you had a smith who knows how to set up the jig and stone and polish well. But the difference between 2.5 and 3.25 is insignificant. You'd get more out of refitting a wide target trigger then trying to lower the weight .75 of a pound.

I agree that your better off tuning up your 14, as if it's an older gun it's probably better then a new one anyways. I'm assuming your using it as a bullseye gun?
 
Adjust the strain screw, this might give you the weight-of-pull tou want. If function and safety are correct after adjustment then make permanent the adjustment.
 
Lodi said:
Adjust the strain screw, this might give you the weight-of-pull tou want. If function and safety are correct after adjustment then make permanent the adjustment.
Click to expand...

If you start messing around with the strain screw you'll have safety issues. The strain screw should be tight.
 
Trigger pressure in a Smith is primarily determined by the rebound spring, reducing this to a 12 or 13 pound version will get you down to your desired release weight. Polishing the sliding surfaces of the rebound block, the sides of the hammer and trigger and the bolt will smooth it up. Under NO circumstances should you attempt to stone the hammer notch, and the trigger engagement edge is only to be changed in rare circumstances. The strain screw is something that seems to be an easy way to lower trigger weight BUT this is only useful if double action is the main use pattern. Backing the strain screw out lowers torque on the hammer and thus it gets slower - not what you want if SA is the main use, in which case all the way in is best. A crisp trigger will feel the same whether it is two or four pounds. If your intent is ISSF centrefire the rule specs one kilo lift, I always try for two and a half, but I have had triggers that I swore would not lift a pound, but they in fact lifted three and a half. Don't try to push the rules, a good trigger is better than one that is marginal but erratic in pull. Don't obsess over the weight, just make it "good".

Dr Jim
 
The sliding surfaces on the rebound block and hammer sides on my 686 PPC gun are polished to a chrome like finish and has a modified rebound spring. You can play around with the strain screw if you like but unless you run federal 100 primers, you will not be able to lower it much without getting misfires. Any particular reason why the trigger has to be down to 2.5lbs. My distinguished 686 revolver lifts the required 3.5lbs in single action yet feels very, very light.
 
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