New to reloading

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SEK-BERLIN

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Hi,

I am new to reloading and have a few concerns with some of my first Loads! To start off I am using H4895 powder and need to know if you reduce the starting load and work your self up or reduce max load and work up?

I reloaded a few .308 with a Hornady30 Cal .308 165gr InterLock SP with 40gr powder and 42.3gr powder the 40gr is bellow recommended starting load is that ok?
MY .223 with a Hornady 22 cal .224 55gr v max with 25.3gr powder and the round is fairly compressed after seeding the bullet should i worry about that ?

if anyone here uses the Hodgden H4895 and could give me some safe load data for .308 and .223, i would appreciate it big times!


Thanks
 
I may be missing something here, But start at the "suggested start load" working up , looking for accuracy changes, target velocity, and most of all pressure signs. Do not exceed max listed loads. Anything listed in your manual with h4895 should be within safe limits.

As far as loading under "start load", probably ok in most circumstances, but can be dangerous. Stick with the listed loads man, then you wont have problems.

As far as compressing powder goes.... as long as its a listed load for that bullet, I would not worry about it.
 
slicknova said:
As far as loading under "start load", probably ok in most circumstances, but can be dangerous.
Click to expand...
By "dangerous" do you mean a higher probability of squib load ?

I saw around some mention of "plinking load", how do one determine the powder amount for such a load ?
 
.....when you don't know where to start, it's best to go back to the beginning.

Does your load manual not list a safe starting load?
Did you work up in small .3-.5gr increments from that starting load to max?

I stuff quite a few pounds of H4895 into .223 and .308 cases ever year and I will give you one piece of wisdom, it's one of a small handful of powders that any manufacturer publishes reduced load data for... Read up on it, Google is a handy of reloading tool as any press is.

H4895 is an excellent powder to learn with, forgiving to a point... But if you don't work your loads up your asking for a trip to the emergency ward.
 
SEK-BERLIN said:
Hi,

I am new to reloading and have a few concerns with some of my first Loads! To start off I am using H4895 powder and need to know if you reduce the starting load and work your self up or reduce max load and work up?

I reloaded a few .308 with a Hornady30 Cal .308 165gr InterLock SP with 40gr powder and 42.3gr powder the 40gr is bellow recommended starting load is that ok?
MY .223 with a Hornady 22 cal .224 55gr v max with 25.3gr powder and the round is fairly compressed after seeding the bullet should i worry about that ?

if anyone here uses the Hodgden H4895 and could give me some safe load data for .308 and .223, i would appreciate it big times!


Thanks
Click to expand...

Follow reloading manuals and you will be good to go.
 
Hotwheels81 said:
.....when you don't know where to start, it's best to go back to the beginning.

Does your load manual not list a safe starting load?
Did you work up in small .3-.5gr increments from that starting load to max?

I stuff quite a few pounds of H4895 into .223 and .308 cases ever year and I will give you one piece of wisdom, it's one of a small handful of powders that any manufacturer publishes reduced load data for... Read up on it, Google is a handy of reloading tool as any press is.

H4895 is an excellent powder to learn with, forgiving to a point... But if you don't work your loads up your asking for a trip to the emergency ward.
Click to expand...

Hi there and thanks for the advise I did use the loading data provided by powder manufacturer's webpage! And I have been doing quite a bit of research via YouTube and the loading book provided by Lee included in my turret press purchase. Everyone keeps telling me to reduce loads, I wasn't sure if you do so from min or max load. My .223 loads are for a smi Auto rifle and I can't find any additional data on loading for smi Auto are there any differences?

Thanks again
 
Start with the minimum load in your manual and work up to what shoots best but don't go over the listed maximum.. for semi Auto you may want to double check the OAL overal length to make sure it fits and feeds well from your magazine.. Also a light crimp may be advisable to keep the bullet from moving in the case while shooting. Not much difference from bolt action loads.
 
Hodgdon give's you so many different loading data's for different bullets I am using a Hornady 55 gr. V-max and choose -2 for my reloading ! I don't know if the v-may is a SFIRE, SPR SP or BAT TSX FB no data to be found any where on how to identify bullet type. please advice if i choose the right starting load as you can see there are big differences!

Thanks again!!!!

-1 BULLET WEIGHT 55 GR. SFIRE
Hodgdon H4895 .224" 2.220" min22.0 2,941 40,600 PSI max24.6C 3,226 53,500 PSI

-2 BULLET WEIGHT 55 GR. SPR SP
Hodgdon H4895 .224" 2.200" min25.0 3,176 39,700 CUP max26.0 3,315 49,000 CUP

-3 BULLET WEIGHT 55 GR. BAR TSX FB
Hodgdon H4895 .224" 2.180" min21.0 2,910 43,700 PSI max22.6 3,110 51,500 PSI
 
The best thing to do is pick up manual for the type of bullets you are using. Nosler has theirs online but most don't.

Another option is caliber specific manuals like the ones offered by www.loadbooks.com/
They consolidate most different manufacture's info into one book for one caliber. I have a couple of them.

As well, load manuals will list the components (primer, case, powder, bullet, barrel) they used to achieve their safe levels. You have to start at the minimum listed and work your way up from there while looking for pressure signs and accuracy.

I'd buy at least one full manual and read cover to cover a few times because there's info in there you won't find in the compressed manuals or in the online versions. The Lyman or lee manuals are excellent in my opinion.

Have fun!
 
07blackwater said:
The best thing to do is pick up manual for the type of bullets you are using. Nosler has theirs online but most don't.

Another option is caliber specific manuals like the ones offered by www.loadbooks.com/
They consolidate most different manufacture's info into one book for one caliber. I have a couple of them.

As well, load manuals will list the components (primer, case, powder, bullet, barrel) they used to achieve their safe levels. You have to start at the minimum listed and work your way up from there while looking for pressure signs and accuracy.

I'd buy at least one full manual and read cover to cover a few times because there's info in there you won't find in the compressed manuals or in the online versions. The Lyman or lee manuals are excellent in my opinion.

Have fun!
Click to expand...

That would be the ideal route, once you get the hang of reloading you can figure out safe loads (with a chrono if you want to be super safe) with averaging.

As cosmic said I would start at 22gr and work up to 25max. Use what ever OAL that cycles in your gun good.
 
I get that but one of the bullets starting load is 25 grains well over the other two posted examples max load please check my previous posted load data thanks
 
Last edited:
Do not go below the Start load in your manual. Too low can be as dangerous as too high. Causes weird pressures. One grain isn't horribly unsafe though, so you're not going to blow anything up. Anyway, if you have a max load you reduce that by 10%, but not a starting load. Manuals rarely give only max loads, but some web sites(like Alliant's) do. They also tell you the loads are max loads on the pages nobody reads.
If your manual indicates the load is compressed, don't worry about it. Compressed loads are nothing to worry about. Your 25.3 is close to max and will be compressed. Hodgdon's site gives data for 3 bullets. The Barnes TSX and Sfire bullet is an entity unto itself. Barnes bullets are solid copper and require Barnes data. If you don't use 'em, ignore the data. Use the Spr SP data for any other make of 55 grain bullet and you'll be fine.
Hodgdon's site has safe data. However, all data reflects the conditions of the day of the test only. Lee uses Hodgdon data. Lee does not testing at all.
 
SEK-BERLIN said:
I get that but one of the bullets starting load is 25 grains well over the other two posted examples max load please check my previous posted load data thanks
Click to expand...

You can ignore the last load you listed as it's an all copper bullet so it's longer and seated deeper in the case. That's why it's got a lower charge.

So of the 2 left I would start low and work up.
 
MattRidge said:
By "dangerous" do you mean a higher probability of squib load ?

I saw around some mention of "plinking load", how do one determine the powder amount for such a load ?
Click to expand...

Nope, I wasn't thinking about squibs, as sunray pointed out, It can do funky things to pressures if under-loading listed loads. I haven't personally tested this on a pressure gun, but been told it enough not to try it on one of my guns.
 
A must for the reloader is a Lee loading manual. I have others too but lee sells reloading equipment only, no bullets powder primers etc. I like that lee gives loads for many different powder mfgs . He gives data for lead boolits too. As I said earlier I own a number of manuals other than lee, but it is my go to for most of my loads.
.222
9mm luger
.38 spl
.32 win spl
.357 mag
.45 colt
.45 auto
.44 ma
.308
30-40 krag
.30-06
7 rem mag
.43 mauser
.577 snider
577/450
Crap I got no life, just empty and re fill as needed
 
SEK-BERLIN said:
Hi there and thanks for the advise I did use the loading data provided by powder manufacturer's webpage! And I have been doing quite a bit of research via YouTube and the loading book provided by Lee included in my turret press purchase. Everyone keeps telling me to reduce loads, I wasn't sure if you do so from min or max load. My .223 loads are for a smi Auto rifle and I can't find any additional data on loading for smi Auto are there any differences?

Thanks again
Click to expand...


To keep it simple...

If the load manual lists a minamum and a maximum your to start at the minamum charge weight and overall length listed and "work up" in .3-.5gr steps, smaller cases = smaller steps, for .223 I work up in .3 and for .308 and larger I work up in .5 UNLESS I'm using a bullet that's not the same as the one listed in the manual then I always work up in small steps around .2-.3 making only 3-5rnds of each charge weight.


As for a semi auto
Work up from the minamum level in the book as you should with any gun, it will either cycle just fine or it will short stroke and stove pipe... It's your job to taylor the ammo to the rifle... Trial and error.. Oh, and it's my belief that all semi auto rounds should have a healthy crimp on them, I'd suggest you apply "some" crimp to start to avoid having issues with bullets moving into the barrel throat due to inertia when the round is chamberd... Think "consistency" not brute force tho while you are doing this
 
H Guys first of all i wane thank you all for the advice!

I did take my first reloads out to the Range and they worked out just fine! I did bring some factory ammo with me just to compare the performance of my home made.

For the .308 Hornady 165g with 40gains of H4895 worked out the best .65 at a 100yards vs the Hornady 175 match ammo 1.80 at 100 yards

The 55grain Hornady bullet .223 worked great with 24.3grain of powder 2.40 at 100 yards i know that is not the best but please keep in mind that i am shooting my XCR-l not a bolt action rifle!

over all i am happy with my first loads, I still have lots to learn and only time and practice will bring improvement!

thanks again
 
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