Would you reuse brass that has pressure signs?

Oh I save my scrap brass to sell. I'm just not sure I understand the need to "whack " them with a hammer.
 
Anikin67 said:
I'm new to reloading. Can someone please explain to me how an ejector mark on the rim would affect the primer pocket? Almost all of my brass from my semi autos has ejector marks on the rim. Thanks.
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Ejector and extractor are 2 totally different parts. Extractor marks are completely normal and expected.
 
If the primer is tight, and the head isn't swollen and there's no signs of head separation, there's nothing wrong with the brass. High pressure will not cause any other unseen damage.

Necks crack from work hardening and repetitive manipulation, annealing fixes that.

Case head separation comes from excessive headspace and or repetitive and or excessive resizing. Minimal manipulation will extend the brass life.

Ejector marks are just indicators of possible high pressure situations. They absolutely do not mean the brass is damaged what so ever to any degree.

I pay attention to any/all pressure signs when testing loads and continue to monitor as I shoot them. However when it comes time to re-use that brass, I check for incipient separation with a pick, and that the primer is snug. That's all that matters.

That's how I determine what's re-usable, from there it goes through annealing, resizing, trimming, weighing, volume matching.... Tedious time consuming work
 
Sounds like there is a lot of perfectly good brass gets thrown out!
As several well known, experienced reloaders have stated, if the primer goes in with good resistance, the case has not been damaged by excess pressure, so shot it.
 
People must like messing up their new/good brass setting up trimmers, annealers, dies, etc... if they're crushing culled cases with a hammer.
 
sorry, i must be missing something here but how do faint ejection marks on the rim correlate to high pressure?
what kind of marks are these, are there indents on the rim or discolorations, pictures would help.
 
You get to visually inspect cases at pretty much every step of the game, but I really only remove the ones with obvious cracks at first.

Scratches disappear after tumbling.

Dented case mouths and such are fixed in the sizer. If I find any with minor cracks at the case mouth I see if trimming makes them go away If it doesn't, it goes in the bucket. If it does, they go in a different pile.

When hand priming, if I have any that seem like they go in without much resistance, I put them in the pile with the previously cracked necks.

I load heavier/hotter loads in the "good" cases, and light loads with cast bullets and pistol powder in the ones that have been culled out.

Then, half the time, when I go to prep cases again, I dump them all into the tumbler and mix them together REAL good. Then start the process over again :)
 
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