Hammer sticking on new S&W 686
- Thread starter Ranman
- Start date
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
crud in the works woiuld be my guess. If you know how to do it, and have the proper screw drivers, pop the side plate off and see if there is a bit of primer or some such in there. Blow the works out with solvent, lube the pivot and slide points and see if the problem goes away. Make sure the integral lock hasn't shifted part on.....i haven't seen it happen , but i suppose it could.
If you haven't taken the side plate off a smith before, either go to a good smith, or study up on how to do it without buggering the screws and the metal to metal fit, there are several good vid's on youtube.
If you haven't taken the side plate off a smith before, either go to a good smith, or study up on how to do it without buggering the screws and the metal to metal fit, there are several good vid's on youtube.
That's what I thought.....as I said, it is a brand new gun so I was a bit surprised. It may be crud but I would expect it to be a bit early for that. I had just cleaned the accessible areas that day before going. Good suggestions, I will try blowing it out and lubing it. I doubt I will chance taking it apart at this point.
Check that silly built in lock too. Make sure it's pinched snugly into the open position. It may have been loose from the factory and has worked its way out of position and it's interfering with the hammer.
There is a very particular way of popping the side plate out with inertia if you get to that point. You Tube is your friend. Don't just pry at it.
Really though, it's a new gun? Then take it back for the shop tech to have a quick peek at it and see if it needs warranty work.
There is a very particular way of popping the side plate out with inertia if you get to that point. You Tube is your friend. Don't just pry at it.
Really though, it's a new gun? Then take it back for the shop tech to have a quick peek at it and see if it needs warranty work.
Cocked&Locked
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
Don't use frog, it gums up over time. A good quality oil, a drop on the trigger pivot pin, hammer pivot pin, and a TINY amount of grease on the rebound block and trigger/sear and spring yoke and your good
An over-travel adjustment can be set so that there is a minimum amount of rearward travel of the trigger, after the point has been reached that fires the gun. If the adjustment does not allow enough movement, then a malfunction may occur.
If factory settings are in place then this is probably not the cause of the malfunction.
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On a S&W revolver the adjustment is usually inside the frame, protruding into the triggergaurd. You may see either the part itself or the slot for the parts just behind the trigger, towards the uppermost portion of the trigger.
There may also be a different design that uses a screw or stud in the face of the trigger, this screw or stud would contact the triggergaurd when the trigger is pulled..
