.223 Rem with that is primed with pistol primers

[Winchester-1897]

I received about 500 rounds of .223 ammo which is once fired. Once fired from full auto. The primers which are more than likely a pistol primer are easily removed but there is a crimp left in the pocket and small rifle primers won't fit at all. From what I was told there is a tool that can remove that crimp. I am assuming if the crimp is removed I( can then prime with the small rifle primers. Any ideas as I have a crap load of good brass I want to use?

 

[Camaroguy]

You can get either a primer pocket swager that works with your press to remove the crimp, or you can get a primer pocket reamer, a hand tool that cuts the crimp out. Both will allow you to seat your primers. Some will say you can remove the crimp with a pocket knife, and for a few cases it would be fine, but for 500 cases, I'd go for the tool.

 

[Donny Fenn1]

You can also use a case mouth deburring tool to decrimp the primer pockets if you have one

 

[Winchester-1897]

Thanks for the info, I will have to try and order the tool.

 

[tiriaq]

Why would you assume that the primers are pistol primers?

Primer crimps can be cut away with a chamfering tool, or swaged.
I have used a chamfering tool on many cases, chucking the tool in a small lathe for power.
More recently I have been using a Dillon Super Swage. It does an outstanding job.
I have never been able to get good results with the RCBS swaging tool.

 

[bobbynewmark]

ch4d.com/products/equipment/case-tools/psk

best one for value and quality... I love mine.

 

[Winchester-1897]

Why would you assume that the primers are pistol primers?

Primer crimps can be cut away with a chamfering tool, or swaged.
I have used a chamfering tool on many cases, chucking the tool in a small lathe for power.
More recently I have been using a Dillon Super Swage. It does an outstanding job.
I have never been able to get good results with the RCBS swaging tool.

Only because I am new to reloading. I came here to be educated.

 

[Ganderite]

They were loaded with a rifle primer.

Home hardware sells a countersink tool for about $7.00 Chuck this in your electric drill and give each case a quick touch. It will cut the crimp off. I do this to all the range pick up 223 brass, since some is crimped.

This is the quick and cheap way to get it done.

 

[zuke]

If it's crimped in, 99% chance it's factory ammo

 

[Andy]

You can use a Chamfer Tool that you should already have - chuck in a slow turning drill if you have a lot to do:

or there's the "Cadillac" in the Dillon Super Swage:

I have the Dillon, and always use the chamfer tool for a couple of quick easy twists afterwards to make a light chamfer around the primer pocket.

 

[jongun]

You can also use a case mouth deburring tool to decrimp the primer pockets if you have one

that's what I use but wouldn't wanna do 500 cases in one sitting.

 

[tiriaq]

that's what I use but wouldn't wanna do 500 cases in one sitting.

If it is power driven, no problem. Hand twisted? Gets old real fast.

 

[guntech]

Only because I am new to reloading. I came here to be educated.

Good luck with that! You will receive as much bad advice as good.

Buy a good loading manual and use it. There are specific tools used for removing the crimp (if there is a crimp) after the primers are removed. Don't remove more than is necessary.

 

[nevanevan]

Good luck with that! You will receive as much bad advice as good.

Buy a good loading manual and use it. There are specific tools used for removing the crimp (if there is a crimp) after the primers are removed. Don't remove more than is necessary.

Take this advice, if I had to pick a book it would be the Lyman 49th edition manual.

As for tools, I find this works fairly well for removing military crimps. It is meant for a primer pocket, not a case mouth and cannot be bought at Home Hardware, for which it was designed for specifically reaming primer pockets. They can be found at local Wholesale Sports stores.

PRIMER REAMER SMALL 1 EACH
SKU: 390750 | 1/EA
http://www.hornady.com/store/Case-Care/?page=3

 

[Trinimon]

I use one of those as well. Chuck it in a cordless drill and run them through. Makes for sore fingers after a hundred or so. I'm waiting for my RCBS swaging dies to show up to give those a try.

 

[jongun]

If it is power driven, no problem. Hand twisted? Gets old real fast.

Yeah i just do it by hand cause I'm not working with huge quantities.

 

[Slug870]

Save yourself time and effort; invest in the Dillon Super Swage. It is a bit pricey for some, but once you've purchased it, it is there forever.

 

[Winchester-1897]

I use one of those as well. Chuck it in a cordless drill and run them through. Makes for sore fingers after a hundred or so. I'm waiting for my RCBS swaging dies to show up to give those a try.

Put the same tool in my new Makita cordless drill and made very quick work of about 250 in one sitting.

 

[bigedp51]

Winchester-1897

I'm retired and have been reloading for over 46 years and you need to make a few decisions relating to these questions.

1. How often do you reload?
2. How often do you plan to buy once fired military cases with crimped primers?
3. How many crimped cases do you plan to prepare at one time?

The Rolls Royce of crimp removers is the Dillon unit at approximately $100.00 U.S. and if your loading in bulk there is no better unit.

The "best" and cheapest crimp remover "designed" to remove a crimped primer pocket is the RCBS tool designed for their case prep station below. It only removes the crimp, has a positive stop and will not touch the primer pocket walls causing scoring.

If you use a case mouth deburring or similar type tool you can over do it and remove too much brass as below when doing it by hand.

I have the RCBS press mounted swage and it is slow and tedious and hard to align .223 cases. The problem with these units is the swage is rough and it will push brass "into" the primer pocket causing problems.

I also have the CH4D unit and it is worthless, and will bend the rims of your cases and is just a very poor design putting all the load pressure on the rim and not the body of the case.

With the Dillon unit you are not removing brass you are just displacing the brass and when adjusted properly you will have tighter primer pockets, and it is very easy to use.

Reamers remove the brass and you may end up with loose primer pocket vs swaging and the case and reamer must be held.

Bottom line, when doing a large amount of cases with hand reamers it is hard on your hands and your fingers may become sore from holding the cases. So if you buy a hand held reamer and do not like it, do not try ten other types and waste your money when the money can be spent on the Dillon unit.

Trust me I went cheap trying everything but the Dillon super swage and with the money I spent trying to be cheap I could have bought the Dillon unit.

And even the Hornady unit below wasn't the answer and money down the drain with sore finger and hands added.

And doing this many cases by hand was not fun and a lot of work.

Buy the Dillon unit and buy once, cry once and in the end you will be better off.