Who resizes new Brass?

I'll neck size new Lapua, first through an expander then the appropriate bushing. Never needed to FL new. Heck, I'm up to 6 reloads on some and still haven't had to FL size it!
 
Never FL size....only the necks to true up...then chamfer.

Never had a problem in 40+ years, using this strategy, so not likely to change anytime soon.

Like c-fbmi, I hate having an odd number of cases in a lot.

Regards, Dave.
 
Eye..........yie......yeye...........

Just the short version of which you posted there Douglas.
Not very often new brass comes with the case mouths 100 % circular.
They git themselves all beat up during their travels.
Like the new 257 Bobbie brass I just perchased.
Speaking, errrrrrrrrr, typing of which, I need to go pay them some due diligence.

Train of thought have a wreck again 'Looky..........

I always run them in about 1/2 way down the neck, just to true it up and make sure I have good neck tension. I also always slightly chamfer the inside of the case mouth as they invariably have a slight burr inside and I have crumpled the odd case neck before, seating bullets in new cases, so now I just do enough to stop this from happening. It REALLY burns me when this happens with a case from a brand new lot of 100 and now I have 99, I hate 99 or 98, I like 100. I don't mind having a few extra but I hate having lots of less than 100 or 50........just hate it !!!
 
I hold off on the trimming and inside/outside chamfering until after the first firing, I have found that when trimmed as new and then fired I ended up with as much as a .010" difference in case length and had to trim again after 1st firing. And God knows how much I just love trimming brass, so now I fire first then trim and chamfer..........
 
I hold off on the trimming and inside/outside chamfering until after the first firing, I have found that when trimmed as new and then fired I ended up with as much as a .010" difference in case length and had to trim again after 1st firing. And God knows how much I just love trimming brass, so now I fire first then trim and chamfer..........

Douglas; You and I think alike. [whether that is good or bad, I'm nor sure, lol]

I have seen this same difference in length after firing, so hold off until the new stuff is 1-F, then trim and chamfer properly. [I also abhor trimming!]

FL sizing new brass is a waste of time, IMHO, but necks that are not round need a touch-up, of course.

Regards, Dave.
 
I have seen this same difference in length after firing, so hold off until the new stuff is 1-F, then trim and chamfer properly. [I also abhor trimming .

I loved trimming brass but the novelty wore off after my first 500 rounds and unfortunately it's never returned! I also don't trim until after 1st firing
 
To each his own, I full length resize all new cases, trim to a uniform length and champher the case mouth, uniform the primer pockets and flash hole. Why fire a case that could be warped or dented during manufacture or shipment.

Nosler custom brass is an example of full prepared brass before you get it and I still run it through a neck sizing die to make sure the neck are uniform.

Nosler Brass | Fully Prepped, Ready To Load!

Fully prepped, ready to load
Case mouths are chamfered and deburred
NoslerCustom® Brass is hand-inspected and weight-sorted
Flash holes are deburred and checked for proper alignment
Quality made, NoslerCustom® Brass is packaged in quantities of 25, 50 and 100 count boxes
Each piece of brass is full length sized and trimmed to proper length


http://www.nosler.com/brass/

The object of reloading is to make ammunition superior to factory loaded ammunition that is more accurate.

A full length resized case is supported by the bolt face in the rear and by the bullet in the throat of the bore. The full length resized case also does not touch the chamber along the case body and neck, this minimizes any case misalignment errors with the bore and gives the bullet a little wiggle room to be self aligning with the bore. The Late Jim Hull of Sierra bullets testing lab said it best, "I get the best accuracy when the cartridge fits the chamber like a rat turd in a violin case."

Below on a full length resized case, the body of the case and neck do not touch the chamber walls, and are held in position by the bolt in the rear and the bullet in the throat.

chamber-neck-diagram-with-cartridge2x_zps7395df40.jpg


The above minimizes the effects of cases with unequal case wall thickness which increases neck runout. Meaning perfect bass is very hard to find and more costly to buy and this "wiggle room" aid with bullet alignment with the bore.

Below shows that even neck turning neck sized brass will not align the bullet with the bore, and why a little wiggle room by full length resizing the case helps with normal factory brass. (the rat turd in the violin case)

neckcenter_zps94286f86.jpg
 
Douglas; You and I think alike. [whether that is good or bad, I'm nor sure, lol]

I have seen this same difference in length after firing, so hold off until the new stuff is 1-F, then trim and chamfer properly. [I also abhor trimming!]

FL sizing new brass is a waste of time, IMHO, but necks that are not round need a touch-up, of course.

Regards, Dave.

Hey Dave, the reason we think so much alike it that experience has taught us to think the same way on many, many things guns and reloading related. It has also been my experience on here (CGN) that those with our loading and shooting experience also think pretty much as we do.........Why Not?......H4831.....Dogleg......and so on.
I load and fire all my brass in the rifle for which it is intended before I do any prep at all, short of cleaning up case mouths. After the initial firing I will then trim, chamfer, clean up flash holes, weigh if it's one of those rifles........etc, but not until it is fired.
 
Hey Dave, the reason we think so much alike it that experience has taught us to think the same way on many, many things guns and reloading related. It has also been my experience on here (CGN) that those with our loading and shooting experience also think pretty much as we do.........Why Not?......H4831.....Dogleg......and so on.
I load and fire all my brass in the rifle for which it is intended before I do any prep at all, short of cleaning up case mouths. After the initial firing I will then trim, chamfer, clean up flash holes, weigh if it's one of those rifles........etc, but not until it is fired.

Yes, very plausible explanation. No teacher like experience, is there? :) Dave.
 
I do as well- I typically buy r-p and I've had a 30 cal bullet drop right in like the neck wasn't even there- it was a 180, so it was long enough to reach in and pull out - had it been a 150 I don't know what I would have done- probably get out the pipe cutter and lose the brass.
 
Like "any" brass.. give them the full treatment.. flash hole, primer pocket, size to YOUR gun, measure neck thickness, examine for defects, etc.. Yes, you can likely get away without all this... but the one day you get a bad piece of brass and it blows you gun up, and\or you get hurt... it'll make the extra prep time seem ever so "insignificant"..
 
I FL size, trim, chamfer, uniform the primer pocket & deburr the flash holes on new brass for many of the reasons cited above.

At one point, I bought 2 new (factory sealed) bags of W-W 264 Win. Mag. brass for my Mod. 70. Going through the process, low & behold
one piece of brass - at about about 65 or so pieces into the 100 - is hard to size. Pull it out and have a god look ... 300 Win. Mag. ! Went through
the remaining 35 +/- or so pieces - and found another ! Out of sheer curiosity, I counted all the brass. I did get the full 100 pieces of 264 WM,
but also a "bonus" of 2 pieces of 300 WM in one of the two bags of 50.
 
Thanks BMI, for including me with your experienced gang.
As a point of interest Eagleye and I shot in the same rifle competitions in the 1970s.
Wow, time flies, I guess that is like 40 years ago, Dave!
Bruce
 
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