Not a happy camper right now....

Can you fully turn the key? Do you have a combo lock on it like in the pic? Have you tried the combo lock? What happens after you turn the key and try the handle? Have you tried pushing on the door while attempting these operations?
 
I feel your pain K. I offer up any of my kit if you need it.
I also offer my help in drinking said amber liquid.

Thanks - on both counts!


Can you fully turn the key? Do you have a combo lock on it like in the pic? Have you tried the combo lock? What happens after you turn the key and try the handle? Have you tried pushing on the door while attempting these operations?

It has an electronic pad - but that is not set up. The key turns freely - too freely. The weight of something in the lock turns the key on its own. It never was like that before. It feels as though turning the key does nothing. The handle remains in the locked position.
 
A lot of troll responses on this thread, but often the best first options is just to contact the company who made the product you're having difficulty with, and at least give them the chance to right the wrong.
 
... often the best first options is just to contact the company who made the product you're having difficulty with, and at least give them the chance to right the wrong.

I think BUM covered that rather well...

I know a guy that's good with safes... he'll be available in 2018...

But seriously... Costco will cover the full value... just drill the crap outta it... retrieve your property and then take it back.
 
As I mentioned before, the manufacturer told me to wiggle things in a certain way and if that fails then call a locksmith to drill the thing. They will then pay up to $100 of the locksmith cost + replace the safe.

Some of what I posted was for entertainment...
 
I was a locksmith. Good luck finding someone to open a safe for $100.00. If you tried what they tell you and it hasn't worked ... Chances are the key is not pulling the bolt back that is blocking the the handle and the rods. On most cheap safes the "box" with the bolt in it will be located between the handle and the lock mechanism. I'm going to assume this is a fairly econimical safe and is mostly designed as a fire safe and will not have a hard plate or relockers so you will want to attack between handle and lock. If you have any hole saws and a drill try drilling between the two after you go through the outer skin you will probably encounter something like concrete inside the safe, break that out and keep drilling through to the inside skin, remove tha as well and take a look at what you see. There should be some kind of box with a protruding bolt that will block the handles rotation that will have to be removed or punched, then the handle should rotate.
 
Thanks doc25. It is a $730 safe, so not too cheap for a 14 gun safe. I'll just pay for the locksmith and submit the bill.
 
Is it possible a rifle shifted, and is leaning on the locking bar? I have had that happen due to overloaded safe/scoped rifles. Maybe a vigorous jiggle might help??
T
Same thing happend to me. I laid the gun box on the floor the gun inside moved, end of problem. However it was just a steel homack box not a big safe
 
Good luck.....

One bit of advice, buy a different safe. After having a $730 safe fail like that, I'd avoid it like the plague. Go to a locksmith and check out real safes, if thats what your after.
 
Sounds like a locksmith is your best option at this point . As a local locksmith told me , it is best to go with a cheap Stack-On steel gun cabinet with a simple key for firearm storage because you can always pry those open in a emergency , and they are cheap to replace . The locksmith also told me to avoid any safe with any sort of electronics involved.......he said he gets constant calls about electronic safes that will not open . Good luck with your safe problem.......
 
. The locksmith also told me to avoid any safe with any sort of electronics involved.......he said he gets constant calls about electronic safes that will not open . Good luck with your safe problem.......
Interesting, locksmiths have told me the exact opposite although this is when I have them come for their yearly visit to remove and service the mechanisim on the non electronic safe which so many people never do and have issues.
 
A word of advice for those of you with a safe more advanced than a stackon is to remove the inside panel and see how it works, while there measure where everything is inside, see if there are relockers and hard plate and keep this diagram handy. Don't put it in the safe though :). Even if you are not comfortable breaking in to your own safe it will greatly aid the locksmith in opening it.
 
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