Case Hardening - How to Protect? *PICS ADDED*

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blauber

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I have an old shotgun from circa 1924 with 80% plus original colours. I have taken it out hunting and the finish continues to fade or disappear. Is there any method to protect the original carbon from further wear?

I was thinking that after a thorough degreasing (I use Simple Green and Acetone when rust bluing) that there might be a clear coat product that is impermeable/ tough that I could apply to the receiver. In a spray bomb maybe and if a product exists, where can I find it?

Thanks for any and all replies and ideas.
 
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Automotive section, CTire. Truck Bedliner.

Seriously. There is not much other than a thick coat of something impervious to wear or light, that you can put on there that is not going to cause you other issues too.

Otherwise, keep your hands clean, keep the gun out of the muck and direct sunlight, as much as possible, and generally enjoy.

Any clear coats that you can put on are temporary solutions, that will flake off and cause their own set of further problems.

If it's too valuable to take to the field, get something that isn't. Save it for special occasions. Or don't.

Cheers
Trev
 
Originally, case coloured receivers were often lacquered. It will wear off though. It would be worth trying a quality paste wax, like the Conservator's Wax that Steyr1 suggested.
 
Regular epoxy dries clear and hard as a Liberal's heart. Don't know if just covering the colour of case hardening will make any difference though.
Contact this guy and ask. Add the W's. .colorcasehardening.ca/eng/color.html
 
Some folks with Henry rifles found that the black paint used on the receivers of some models didn't hold up well. They removed the paint and polished the metal or polished then fake case coloured the metal with "stains" of blueing on the alloy cover then clear coated the covers with Monokote brand Lustrekote. It's a tough clear coat used on RC model airplanes. It has to be resistant to alcohol, nitromethane, gas and oils. So it should stand up to most of the gun cleaning products.

You should be able to find it at hobby shops that cater to RC models.
 
sunray said:
Regular epoxy dries clear and hard as a Liberal's heart. Don't know if just covering the colour of case hardening will make any difference though.
Contact this guy and ask. Add the W's. .colorcasehardening.ca/eng/color.html
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Thanks Sunray - I heard back from Alain and he recommends this: http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/finishes/MC-155FQ/low-gloss-ceramic-micro-clear/

I don't have a spray gun or compressor, so will look into BCRider's product - have a RC store in mind and it sounds like a winner and maybe a little more cost effective. Thanks all!
 
As strange as it seems, there are some clear epoxies, particularly coating types, that are no UV-stable. Take them outside, and they will deteriorate, even cloud over.
 
OldDude said:
As strange as it seems, there are some clear epoxies, particularly coating types, that are no UV-stable. Take them outside, and they will deteriorate, even cloud over.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was kind of my point with the (somewhat) tongue in cheek comment WRT using truck bedliner. To actually protect the stuff and keep it from any harm, you pretty much have to cover it with something that may cause it to either not be seen at all, or you have to live with the issues of the cover material chipping, falling off, peeling, or actually damaging the colour case that was supposed to be protected in the first place.

Clean hands, and oil cloth wipe down after every outing, and keep it from sitting in the direct sun, are about the best that can be done that will not cause other problems.

Cheers
Trev
 
The english smiths would varnish the sideplates and actions to preserve the colours. Burrard recommended having it re-done every other year. Unfortunately he didn't make mention of what type of varnish was used. I think you would have to experiment with different varnishes and shellacs to find one that didn't yellow with age.
 
9.3mauser said:
The english smiths would varnish the sideplates and actions to preserve the colours. Burrard recommended having it re-done every other year. Unfortunately he didn't make mention of what type of varnish was used. I think you would have to experiment with different varnishes and shellacs to find one that didn't yellow with age.
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Yellowing with age is hardly a problem, if you actually do re-do it every second year. Easy when the game keeper takes good care of the guns on the Estate, less so, when modern life interferes!

Cheers
Trev
 
I all ways thought the lacquer on old gun receivers (usually 1894's) was because bubba was to lazy to remove the stock while lacquering up the wood..... Who knew it was a traditional metal trreatment.....?
:)
 
My old Ithaca manual recommended an aerosol called "Acrylic Plastic" made or sold by GC Electronics, part #8665 for protecting the finish on Perazzi shotguns. It seems to still be available, though I've never tried the stuff. A liquid paint remover was used to remove the old finish. Touch up was not recommended, a complete refinish was.
 
I have found a can of Lustrekote in flat clear and will be applying it in the next few days (don't have it in hand yet). It is acrylic, with an ultra fast dry time - I have all parts degreased awaiting 3 or 4 very thin coats. Of course I won't know if it will stand the test of time for the coming years - but if it withstands RC fuel, oils etc. I am hopeful. A bonus would be that the receiver necessarily won't need oil as a rust preventative after hunts.

I spoke to the guy at the RC store and re-coat is in as fast as 10 minutes with no sanding between coats - I'll post a couple pics in the coming days.
 
blauber said:
I have found a can of Lustrekote in flat clear and will be applying it in the next few days (don't have it in hand yet). It is acrylic, with an ultra fast dry time - I have all parts degreased awaiting 3 or 4 very thin coats. Of course I won't know if it will stand the test of time for the coming years - but if it withstands RC fuel, oils etc. I am hopeful. A bonus would be that the receiver necessarily won't need oil as a rust preventative after hunts.

I spoke to the guy at the RC store and re-coat is in as fast as 10 minutes with no sanding between coats - I'll post a couple pics in the coming days.
Click to expand...

So the job is done - no magic here but I'm ok with the final result. I completed 4 thin coats and a wet fifth coat. The instructions are 3-5 minutes between coats. Based on other reading, when you add a coat it will re-dissolve the previous coat so you can build layers. I used flat clear and am happy that I didn't go semi or full gloss.

I have no previous experience with this product - however the final finish looks tough and the case colours look 99% identical to that of a coat of gun oil over top. There is a slight haze but I'm ok with that as the main reason I completed this was to protect the carbon from further wear and fading. A can of this stuff is $12 - time will tell if it holds up but I expect it will. Apparently it fits the "acrylic lacquer" class.

First pic is within the 20 minute dry time after the 5th and final coat, 2nd is final product and 3rd is a pic of the product.

[URL=http://s863.photobucket.com/user/Remi_08_2008/media/DSCN0816.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s863.photobucket.com/user/Remi_08_2008/media/DSCN0825.jpg.html][/URL]
[URL=http://s863.photobucket.com/user/Remi_08_2008/media/DSCN0826.jpg.html][/URL]
 
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