Anyone here still shooting 1940 dated turkish 8mm?

CanadianAR

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Anyone here still have any, or still shooting it? Or know of a reason why not to shoot it?

Ive come across some 1940 dated stuff. Research ive done indicated that I should inspect each round first for case splits, but if they look good they should be ok......

Would be going in a K98k or mg34.
 
Anyone here still have any, or still shooting it? Or know of a reason why not to shoot it?

Ive come across some 1940 dated stuff. Research ive done indicated that I should inspect each round first for case splits, but if they look good they should be ok......

Would be going in a K98k or mg34.

I have a cloth bandoleer full on brass stripper clips but have been holding off from shooting them, the odd loose ones I have had in the past (about a dozen or so) shot fine out of my Turkish M98 Mauser, seemed on the hot side although.
 
I also have cloth bandoleer or two of that ammo.I shot it in the past and it was some of the best ammo around for Yugo Mauser.

It's loaded hot but safe and it went off every time.

I would reload it into new cases.Turks didn't use good brass or anneling is missed-some case necks split but nothing I worry about.
 
OP, that Turk 8mm can be hit or miss. I had a few thousand rounds that came loose in a metal box and they all shot well. Not so much hot but loaded with 196 grain round nose bullets.

There was also a hermitically sealed case with 1120 rounds that were as bright and shiny as if they had been made the day before. About half of them were duds and hangfires. I ended up pulling all of the bullets 155 grain PSP and scrapped the brass as it was Berdan primed.
 
This stuff has a brass case, and silver coloured bullet. It was in the light blue bandoleer and on brass stripper clips.

This ammo gets a very mixed review at best it seems. Judging by several sources.
 
The stuff I had was loaded with flat-based 154 gr spitzer bullets. I still have a bunch of the bullets that I pulled. Not bad ammo, but I had a few cracked necks.
 
Just the other day someone was asking about ww2 vintage 303 British ammo.

Someone else linked a story about an enfield blowing up from old ammo because the powder donated rather than burned. It had something to do with the powder separating I think? I'm on my phone so I can't go find it for you...
 
Just the other day someone was asking about ww2 vintage 303 British ammo.

Someone else linked a story about an enfield blowing up from old ammo because the powder donated rather than burned. It had something to do with the powder separating I think? I'm on my phone so I can't go find it for you...

Another Rabbit Hole about someone who knows a guy who heard about someone who knew a guy whose gun blew up..............
 
Another Rabbit Hole about someone who knows a guy who heard about someone who knew a guy whose gun blew up..............

Guy did a test with cordite loads and concluded that the cordite had broken up over the years and caused the charge to burn much faster than it was designed to.
 
Some original Mg-34 in full auto mode have also blown up with this ammo in the USA. I would only shoot it in bolt action rifles.
 
I have a bit of this ammo, find it to be a precise duplicate of the German WW1 load: 154-grain flatbase pointed bullet in front of a charge of flake powder.

Priming is DEFINITELY corrosive.

Pulled the slugs, poured the charges into fresh primed casings and go an honest 1 inch out of 2 rifles, 1-1/4 out of the third. Rifles were a 1915 Mauser/Mauser Gew 98, 1926 "No Name" Mauser Kar 98b and a 1914 Danzig Kar 98aZ.

The load IS hot: actually hotter than a .30-06, produced 2880 ft/sec from a 29-inch tube. It is also NORMAL for WW1 rifles.
 
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