Cheap .303 British?

Not much out there that I can find that I would consider being cheap. Cheapest I've seen is about $30 a box up to about $36. Its even getting tough finding bullets to reload. I was at Cabela's this weekend and they had nothing for bullets, there wasn't even a spot for them on the shelves where they should have been.
 
So I'm looking into reloading for my .303, can the bullet from the 7.62x39 be used? I read somewhere that they are the same size, how about the powder in the surplus ammo, it's the primer that's the corrosive element to the round correct? I need to do some more reloading homework, half of it makes sense the rest of it is still a bit confusing. Need to get my hands on some reading material I guess.
 
Cb750k said:
So I'm looking into reloading for my .303, can the bullet from the 7.62x39 be used? I read somewhere that they are the same size, how about the powder in the surplus ammo, it's the primer that's the corrosive element to the round correct? I need to do some more reloading homework, half of it makes sense the rest of it is still a bit confusing. Need to get my hands on some reading material I guess.
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Yes, I do it all the time
 
I have seen surplus in gun shots go for about 80 cents a round and if not if you can find a dealer who has it in stock prvi is pretty much the cheapest production ammo around these days.
 
samsplacci71 said:
Quite correct. What surplus 303 there was dried up long ago.
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And the .303 surplus that's left isn't worth shooting. It's either rare production stuff you could sell for the price of a box or two of new stuff, or that Pakistani junk that barely works. I shoot PPU when I want to shoot my .303, which isn't often considering the prices of ammo.
 
Cb750k said:
So I'm looking into reloading for my .303, can the bullet from the 7.62x39 be used? I read somewhere that they are the same size, how about the powder in the surplus ammo, it's the primer that's the corrosive element to the round correct? I need to do some more reloading homework, half of it makes sense the rest of it is still a bit confusing. Need to get my hands on some reading material I guess.
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I haven't done it, but I'm told some pull the bullets and powder from 7.62x39 cheap ammo, and just transfer both into good .303 brass. Somewhat light loads, made as cheaply as possible to keep your .303 working, using the cheapest current source.

One tip I was given...first, push the bullet partly into the case on the 7.62 x 39, as they are often lacquer sealed and hard to pull with a kinetic bullet puller. Push in first to break that seal, then they knock apart much easier.
 
cantom said:
I haven't done it, but I'm told some pull the bullets and powder from 7.62x39 cheap ammo, and just transfer both into good .303 brass. Somewhat light loads, made as cheaply as possible to keep your .303 working, using the cheapest current source.

One tip I was given...first, push the bullet partly into the case on the 7.62 x 39, as they are often lacquer sealed and hard to pull with a kinetic bullet puller. Push in first to break that seal, then they knock apart much easier.
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I would avoid a kinetic puller and invest in a press mounted one for this job.
 
cantom said:
I haven't done it, but I'm told some pull the bullets and powder from 7.62x39 cheap ammo, and just transfer both into good .303 brass. Somewhat light loads, made as cheaply as possible to keep your .303 working, using the cheapest current source.

One tip I was given...first, push the bullet partly into the case on the 7.62 x 39, as they are often lacquer sealed and hard to pull with a kinetic bullet puller. Push in first to break that seal, then they knock apart much easier.
Click to expand...

100% /\ /\ /\ /\

prvi brass

cast boolits

paper patching

(best reason to buy 7.62 x 39 corrosive...and keep the powder too!)
 
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