586-3 nickel got "tight" in the heat

suits me

suits me

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The other day I headed out to the range for an extended shooting session. Outside temp was in the low 30's and I was shooting very warm handloads. Imr4227 and 158 gr hornady fphp. After around twenty rounds fired in rapid succession the cylinder became tight enough it no longer wanted to turn freely. I noticed that there was no gap between it and the forcing cone, put it down for a few minutes to cool and it ran again. Thoughts?
The pistol is fairly new to me but I have in the past ran about 100 rounds through it with no trouble, but the outside temp was much cooler.
 
make sure your ejector rod is tightened up, i've had mine get loose and bind things up. although it was only when trying to open the cylinder that it was really binding, but worth a shot.
 
As mentioned above, I can just about guarantee your ejector rod as backed out from normal. Not unusual when shooting heavy loads and ensuring it is tight should be part of the cleaning ritual. They really need to be snugged up and there is a proper tool to use which wont marr the ejector rod. I don't know how many guns I have seen where the owner uses a pair of pliers to tighten the rod, resulting in chewed up knurling on the ejector :runaway:..Good luck
dB
 
dan belisle said:
Generally true, assuming the same level of non-maintenance. - dan
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Uhh, no. very low round count and his revolver locked up. I've seen the rod back off on many a wheel a gun including the one I had(for a short time). Wheel guns are maintenance intensive and don't handle fouling too well, as is evident above.

Tdc
 
suits me said:

dont think I will try pliers on it.
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Nice gun suits me. I don't think the ejector rod has come lose. In my experience with these guns and I own a couple of them I would think because you are using 4227 that it is more likely that there is some unburnt powder under the star ejector.

4227 is a hard powder to get a complete burn with. Clean under the ejector and you will probably be good to go. Generally speaking when the ejector rod starts to come lose you can still shoot the gun but you cannot get the cylinder to open.

Graydog
 
Check the ejector rod, and your cylinder to forcing cone clearance.

As to the revolver vs semi reliability issue, I base my opinion on 40+ years of using over one hundred different handguns. Personal experience. Maybe I was just unlucky, but generally I've had less issues with revolvers then semi autos. Your mileage may vary. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
Check the ejector rod, and your cylinder to forcing cone clearance.

As to the revolver vs semi reliability issue, I base my opinion on 40+ years of using over one hundred different handguns. Personal experience. Maybe I was just unlucky, but generally I've had less issues with revolvers then semi autos. Your mileage may vary. - dan
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Your experience is yours. Your rate of fire and number of rounds fired are both unknown. The bigger picture based on facts is that wheel guns suck as far as reliability is concerned as well as in general when compared to an auto.

Tdc
 
I disagree. Semiautos came into common usage when firepower became more important then any other handgun attribute, and at that they excelled. There are many instances of handguns left for decades and then simply picked up and used, and revolvers have proven reliable in most cases. I've had and seen FTF's, problems with mags, ammo sensitivity etc with semi autos , and I doubt very much my experience has been singular. - dan
 
First time ive ever had trouble with a wheel gun, and I have had quite a few. I dont remember the last time I didnt have trouble with any of my semis on a range day.
I can shoot my redhawk until it turns black and my arm is ready to fall off without on single hickup, I've never had a semi that at least didnt have feeding issues from a dirty ramp after 100 rounds.
 
What graydog said is probably what is the matter.I had the same issue with my Model 29 a couple times using 231 Win powder.Use an old toothbrush to clean out behind the star and I bet your prob goes away.....

Bearcat
 
Yup, I've never had a problem with function with any of my wheelguns other than a stiff action once when a good cleaning was required, mostly smiths with a couple of rugers and a webley thrown in. On the other hand, none of my SA will tolerate anywhere near the same level of neglect, and those include springfield, beretta, Dlask, and Kimber, all decent guns just not as forgiving as a wheelgun. I compete with my guns and put thousands of rounds through them every year. YMMV.
 
dan belisle said:
I disagree. Semiautos came into common usage when firepower became more important then any other handgun attribute, and at that they excelled. There are many instances of handguns left for decades and then simply picked up and used, and revolvers have proven reliable in most cases. I've had and seen FTF's, problems with mags, ammo sensitivity etc with semi autos , and I doubt very much my experience has been singular. - dan
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I would have to agree with Dan here. There is just too many examples of older but fully functioning revolvers that are present in our society. I would argue that it's easier to find a working S&W Pre WWII revolver with all of it's original parts then any Browning Hi Power with it's original magazine. And NIB spare magazines are a very healthy gun market requirement.
 
I have a .22 SP101 that fouls up and I think it is from lead residue. After fifty or so rounds the trigge pull gets really stiff and the cylinder won't spin. A shot of CLP and it goes again for another fifty rounds.
 
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