What makes a "soft-shooting" AR?

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I'd like to experience a really "soft-shooting" AR. To that end, I'd like to build one (mostly a new upper.)

What factors contribute to that "soft-shooting" factor in an AR's function? As near as I can tell, it might look like a:

16" or 18" barrel with the longest gas system that will fit;
A good comp/brake, and;
A heavy-ish buffer.

What else do I need to look at?

Can I fit a rifle-length gas system on an 18"? What about on a 16"?

What's the formula to figure out the right buffer (and spring?) for a build like this?

Am I chasing unicorns? Is "soft" or "harsh" purely subjective?
 
You're on the right track... Rifle length tube is about 13 inches, so you can squeeze it on a 16, or easily on a 20.

Maybe it's just because I cut my teeth on a C1, but I've never found an AR harsh...
 
Decent buttpad.
Increased rifle weight will help offset recoil.
Good form. With a secure hold and the buttpad in a good spot you will minimize recoil. I think this will contribute more than anything else. You don't want the rifle to have space to get a running start, and you don't want it to be bouncing off your collarbone either.

I've also noticed that clothing selection plays into it. One of my shirts has a collar that would go right under my buttpad and focus all the recoil into the one spot with the stitching on it. Was quite annoying.
 
I should clarify for you guys; I own and shoot, and have owned and shot, quite a few rifles. I don't find an AR or any small-bore rifle harsh to shoot. I'm quite comfortable behind most anything up to a .30 magnum class before I have to really concentrate on form. (I did have a 7mm Remington Magnum that didn't fit me very well, and was a bit uncomfortable prior to the installation of a Pachmayr recoil pad.) I like my 375 Ruger and also don't mind practicing with slugs from my 12 and 20 gauge pump and double shotguns. The only firearm I've ever shot which made me say "no thanks" was a rifle in 460 Weatherby.

It's certainly not the recoil of my AR that I find disagreeable. I think it's that I can feel, hear and sense the movement of the buffer tube, buffers and spring that I find... distracting.

I'm running a Magpul CTR stock; is there a different stock that damps the sensation of the buffer system better?

What I'm looking for is to build an AR that feels like the suspension of a BMW or Mercedes-Benz; taut, yet smoooooooth.

Unicorn chasing? LOL
 
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I know what you're saying. My AR always has that "THUNG!" noise from the buffer going on. I don't really know what could solve it without causing other problems.

A stiffer buffer spring might help, but I'm no expert.
 
Pretty hard to muffle the sound of the buffer spring when it's right beside your ear... I've not found a stock that works better than others.. Maybe someone else has? Good luck!
 
I know what you're saying. My AR always has that "THUNG!" noise from the buffer going on. I don't really know what could solve it without causing other problems.

A stiffer buffer spring might help, but I'm no expert.

A JP Enterprises silent captured spring would help, only thing you hear from my AR is the bolt locking and unlocking.
 
It's almost like the action of the AR is very... busy... under recoil. I've not noticed this with other rifles such as the M305, Mini-14, or semi-auto shotguns that I've owned.
 
A JP Enterprises silent captured spring would help, only thing you hear from my AR is the bolt locking and unlocking.

^^ This. Sorry, I thought you were having discomfort from the recoil and you wanted to reduce it.

I picked up one of those JP captured springs because of all the hype and it does smooth out the cycling and eliminate that "TWANG" sound. I've tried it on two ARs, a DD M4V5 and a home built one with a Rainier Arms buffer tube. My DD M4V5's buffer tube is about 3/16" longer than the Rainer buffer tube and I've had to shim the captured spring to fit. I'd get an irritating humming noise after each round as the steel rod in the captured spring was vibrating. On my Rainer rifle, I don't hear that humming noise. Maybe I needed an extra shim on my DD rifle.

A cheaper alternative that works 90% of the time for me is to get the JP Enterprises tuned buffer spring, a twang buster shim and a Spike's Tactical buffer (optional). The combo works really well at eliminating that "TWANG" you get with regular buffer springs.
 
Mystic precision did a thread on his efforts a couple of years ago. Do a search for that and/or email Gerry through his web site. As I recall he messed with an adjustable gas block and reduced loads? Maybe buffers and springs too.

I always figured messing with this stuff could cause reliability to suffer, and I like the twang. This is the voice of the rifle talking to me.

But for an exercise to learn from I can't see any reason to not experiment. Give it hell and let us know your results.
 
I suspect I'll do just that Bolivar.

You guys can look for another thread shortly that sounds like "Dur, how do I build an upper?", because I've never done it before LOL!
 
For a smooth shooting DI rifle you want a heavy buffer and the longest gas system your chosen barrel length can support. An adjustable gas block will help if you stick to the same ammo once you have it adjusted correctly.
Long barrels and gas systems are not always required though, I have a 12 inch PWS piston driven rifle with a carbine length system and just a triad muzzle device (got rid of the brake I used to run) and when I put a spikes heavy buffer in it the rifle is very smooth but when I put in my enidine hydraulic buffer the rifle feels almost like you're shooting a rimfire.
If you really want a smooth shooting AR try one in 300 Blackout, my 9.75 inch PWS in 300Blk is super smooth and I'm building a DI rifle in 300Blk with an 11 inch barrel which I predict will be very nice to shoot as well.

To the guys bringing up the twang, that's just what AR's do, if you don't like it shoot a different rifle. I don't even notice it anymore and it's never bothered me. The captured spring system from JP is the only way around it as far as I know.
 
Is the rifle over-gassed? That will make the bolt come back a lot more violently than required.

To find out if it is over gassed, make ammo with less and less powder, and find out where it stops cycling. If your normal load is 25 grains and it still works at 17 gr, it is over gassed. Then go to a heavier spring/buffer.
 
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Another quick check to see if it is over/under gassed is to check your case ejection direction. This one isn't as scientific as Ganderite but a rough check.

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I use FA BCG. It's a touch more soft. If you want a pea shooter feeling. Easy. Use a big ass comp like most IPSC 3 guns guys do...
 
I have a 10.5" overgassed I'm about to try an adjustable JP block on. Even with the FA BCG, heavy Wolff spring, H2 buffer, its still a heavy thud. For the twang, I find a light coat of grease in the buffer tube will pretty much eliminate it. Usually coat a .30 cal bore mop and run it around in there.....LIGHT coat...lol
 
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